649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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10-25-2016, 11:51 AM
#3994
I would pick up the 12g brass as well to experiment with. I have been running outdoors lately and the heavier my car is the better its been. I was just over 1600g last club race with the standup car. However...indoors (ocrc) I had the laydown with the 12g brass, I tried the 25g and it felt lazy. Also, play around with the rear shock location if running the laydown. I preferred shocks on the front as opposed to the rear at ocrc. Didn't reduce grip much but felt quicker through the corners.
10-25-2016, 01:44 PM
#3995
Pop Survey: I'm still debating about picking up a B6/D somewhere around the New Year. I am curious about actual numbers and not about "this other guy at the track". So if you have had to personally replace the items below due to breakage, let me know how many times.
How many have you replaced:
Front Tower:
Rear Tower:
Chassis:
How many have you replaced:
Front Tower:
Rear Tower:
Chassis:
Since you're asking: If your hobby shop does not stock towers then I would suggest having one handy just in case. It goes without saying that none of these items break without crashing; so for any crash you risk breaking something. How often, how hard, and how your track conditions are that can increase your chances (chain link fence!) are pretty subjective. But, if you're worried about it, then best to have parts available to keep your race or practice day going.
I haven't heard of any comments about any replacements/issues with the chassis or rear tower.
10-25-2016, 05:27 PM
#3996
I would pick up the 12g brass as well to experiment with. I have been running outdoors lately and the heavier my car is the better its been. I was just over 1600g last club race with the standup car. However...indoors (ocrc) I had the laydown with the 12g brass, I tried the 25g and it felt lazy. Also, play around with the rear shock location if running the laydown. I preferred shocks on the front as opposed to the rear at ocrc. Didn't reduce grip much but felt quicker through the corners.
10-25-2016, 05:36 PM
#3997
You move the shock tower to the front of the tranny case (laydown only) and change the bottom shock eyelets and then mount them to the front of the arm. Schelle has an optional rear tower that uses the longer b5m rear shock bodies and allows you to use the short shock eyelets when mounting the shocks on the front/rear of the arm. The B6 manual can be found on rc10.com and will show all the laydown specific stuff.
10-25-2016, 06:14 PM
#3998
I've read through this thread and don't remember it mentioned.. and as I just got this buggy in and was giving it a once over ...
What are the ball studs on the inside of each arm for?
What are the ball studs on the inside of each arm for?
10-25-2016, 06:22 PM
#4001
BOOM!!!
Everything's clear when you know the answer...
Everything's clear when you know the answer...
10-25-2016, 07:35 PM
#4002
Tech Regular
For those using jconcepts pindowns. On carpet.are you using the jconcepts insert that comes with them or something like an aka red insert? The aka insert is widely used at our track on the shumacher minipins
10-26-2016, 12:24 AM
#4003
B6d 4 gear stand up
Guys do you know where I can find the instructions to build the 4 gear stand up box.
Cheers Mark
Cheers Mark
10-26-2016, 02:06 AM
#4004
Tech Rookie
10-26-2016, 02:36 AM
#4005