649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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10-16-2016, 01:26 AM
#3796
Tech Addict
Hey guys,
just got back to some rounds at our local track (loomy, dusty clay (depends on wet/dry)) and mostly the cars are B5R's. I compared my B6D (12g Brass C and 10g extra; 3,5° Toe In; 1.7 and 35/30 shocks (springs are green/green)) and although the B6D is a little bit faster (but I had way more packs with him) he doesnt feel that aggressive on steering. The car feels much smoother.
I kinda miss the initial steering and agressivness...anyone know what I mean?
just got back to some rounds at our local track (loomy, dusty clay (depends on wet/dry)) and mostly the cars are B5R's. I compared my B6D (12g Brass C and 10g extra; 3,5° Toe In; 1.7 and 35/30 shocks (springs are green/green)) and although the B6D is a little bit faster (but I had way more packs with him) he doesnt feel that aggressive on steering. The car feels much smoother.
I kinda miss the initial steering and agressivness...anyone know what I mean?
10-16-2016, 10:19 AM
#3798
Stock or mod? The reason I ask is because mod tends to get the short end of the water stick where as stock gets a super tacky track.
Wayne
10-16-2016, 11:35 AM
#3799
I'm going to go out on a limb here and predict that once Saturday racing starts and the watering and becomes less frequent, especially for the mains, that you may have a different opinion.
Stock or mod? The reason I ask is because mod tends to get the short end of the water stick where as stock gets a super tacky track.
Wayne
Stock or mod? The reason I ask is because mod tends to get the short end of the water stick where as stock gets a super tacky track.
Wayne
10-16-2016, 01:11 PM
#3801
Question for you folks...
Can you replace the ball diff with the gear diff on the B6d?.. and would that work whether you have the lay down trans or not?
Can you replace the ball diff with the gear diff on the B6d?.. and would that work whether you have the lay down trans or not?
10-16-2016, 02:09 PM
#3802
Stock and Mod the laydown just seems to work for me. I know what you mean with watering etc. However they have been keeping a lot of moisture on the track through the week and they have added leaf blower use to blow off the loose stuff. Last week was a new track which generally means no traction. On the new track the traction was as High as I have ever seen it. Wednesday they barely put down any water all night and the track stayed awesome. Get the dirt car buy the optional laydown transmission its on like 30.00.
10-16-2016, 04:20 PM
#3804
its common to put a shim between the chassis and the hinge pin holder to lower the roll center but I've never seen it above the chassis and below the bulkhead.
10-16-2016, 06:56 PM
#3805
Hey guys,
just got back to some rounds at our local track (loomy, dusty clay (depends on wet/dry)) and mostly the cars are B5R's. I compared my B6D (12g Brass C and 10g extra; 3,5° Toe In; 1.7 and 35/30 shocks (springs are green/green)) and although the B6D is a little bit faster (but I had way more packs with him) he doesnt feel that aggressive on steering. The car feels much smoother.
I kinda miss the initial steering and agressivness...anyone know what I mean?
just got back to some rounds at our local track (loomy, dusty clay (depends on wet/dry)) and mostly the cars are B5R's. I compared my B6D (12g Brass C and 10g extra; 3,5° Toe In; 1.7 and 35/30 shocks (springs are green/green)) and although the B6D is a little bit faster (but I had way more packs with him) he doesnt feel that aggressive on steering. The car feels much smoother.
I kinda miss the initial steering and agressivness...anyone know what I mean?
10-16-2016, 07:13 PM
#3806
I've been running both a B6 and B6D. So far I just set them up per the book. When the traction is high the B6 is the way to go. When it drops the B6D works much better especially when the temps drop. We're outdoors so the same track on a warm day is totally different on a cool evening.....even sugared. I understand why people like the laydown so much as it allows the car to turn much faster when there is ample traction but if you don't have at least solid medium traction or the track is inconsistent the stand up is much better in my opinion. I'm going to build another car soon and try out the tall tower and swap in a brass C mount. I think that'll be money for winter with a 4 gear.
10-16-2016, 10:11 PM
#3807
Tech Addict
kinda sad (first car ever))...
10-16-2016, 10:36 PM
#3808
I found that it removed a ton of slop in the steering. I had to go with an aluminum horn too though, the plastic horn becomes the weak link.
10-17-2016, 02:04 AM
#3809
Tech Addict
Have you noticed any change on the steering? Its kinda hard to describe what I mean but the B6D feels so damn smooth.
If I have to describe it: My B5R has tons of entry steering (which results in hard pushing if you are too fast) so I can break a little later. The effetice in-corner speed seems slower as the B6D.
The B6D has a lower entry corner speed but carries it way better through the whole corner. Compared for our tracks we're talking about 0,3-0,5s faster (in my hands).
10-17-2016, 07:29 AM
#3810
Tech Regular
Steering my B6D is overkill, the Savox Servo I have in it would probably work in a 1/8th electric or 4wd Short Course Truck.
I like it this way because you can never have enough steering unless its one of these servos. If you think its too much your radio can turn it down.
The radio I'm using is my Futaba 3PM FASST. Which they have the 3PMX out now which is the same radio with a different steering wheel and crawler functions.
I like it this way because you can never have enough steering unless its one of these servos. If you think its too much your radio can turn it down.
The radio I'm using is my Futaba 3PM FASST. Which they have the 3PMX out now which is the same radio with a different steering wheel and crawler functions.