649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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09-24-2016, 07:38 PM
#3406
alright I got one of these on the way with a variety of upgrades based on the listing and pics.
This will be a vehicle used on carpet and I think the previous owner was using it on something high traction as he has the hard arms on the car and has a laydown transmission as well included.
At the moment right now, what would be considered one of the better carpet setups to look at, even, better, if its a b6d laydown setup?
Once it arrives will give it the usual run through, but I know it has the MIP puck system including the stock ball diff, the track has decided however to go back to mod apparently. Is there a limit to where the MIP pucks can safely be ran motor wise? I am looking at most an 8.5 motor, but may go to something like a 10.5 or 13.5 since its small.
And if I go ball diff, I am assuming no funny issues on carpet, just that gear is more consistent?
Lastly, if using the slipper setup on carpet with something like mckune or rcshox style pads, anyone compare how they feel in comparison to a slipper eliminator?
thanks before hand for all your help.
This will be a vehicle used on carpet and I think the previous owner was using it on something high traction as he has the hard arms on the car and has a laydown transmission as well included.
At the moment right now, what would be considered one of the better carpet setups to look at, even, better, if its a b6d laydown setup?
Once it arrives will give it the usual run through, but I know it has the MIP puck system including the stock ball diff, the track has decided however to go back to mod apparently. Is there a limit to where the MIP pucks can safely be ran motor wise? I am looking at most an 8.5 motor, but may go to something like a 10.5 or 13.5 since its small.
And if I go ball diff, I am assuming no funny issues on carpet, just that gear is more consistent?
Lastly, if using the slipper setup on carpet with something like mckune or rcshox style pads, anyone compare how they feel in comparison to a slipper eliminator?
thanks before hand for all your help.
09-24-2016, 09:32 PM
#3407
Tech Regular
09-24-2016, 09:44 PM
#3408
Pistons
A lot of alternative Pistons coming out of the woodwork. Gimmick?
Anyone try the VRP pistons? Look interesting and wondering if they function as advertised
Anyone try the VRP pistons? Look interesting and wondering if they function as advertised
09-25-2016, 07:27 AM
#3410
Anyone try the BMI Vari-flow CNC machined pistons?
The have them in 2 types: 2 x 1.7mm and 2 x 1.8mm
The have them in 2 types: 2 x 1.7mm and 2 x 1.8mm
09-25-2016, 09:10 AM
#3411
Tech Regular
I'd also check for bad bearings in the tranny and wheel bearings.
09-25-2016, 01:30 PM
#3412
Looks like a castle 1410 four pole short course motor to me. That would explain the high amp draw. A more suitable motor will allow much better runtime. I would get something in the 6.5 to 7.5 range in two pole. With a motor like this a 5000 mah shorty will easily make run time and then some.
09-25-2016, 03:00 PM
#3413
That moment when you ran your b6 for the first time, love it... then realize you didn't sand and glue the shock towers... sigh
09-25-2016, 04:15 PM
#3415
Tech Rookie
Horizontal stress
The other day, my local track did an outdoor race at an RC Airshow at a small airport. They rolled out the turf, put down some plastic jumps and tubing to create the track. This was laid over pavement. So, I ran my freshly built B6 during warmups and I had to call it quits when the screws on the bottom that hold everything in the rear in all backed out. Guy there said it was caused by the horizontal stress. The track was so grippy, there was almost no sliding at all.
My question is, how would I prevent this? Keep in mind everything is stock so far. I got the aluminum d mount and a chassis protector. Haven't had time to rebuild yet.
Thanks
My question is, how would I prevent this? Keep in mind everything is stock so far. I got the aluminum d mount and a chassis protector. Haven't had time to rebuild yet.
Thanks
09-25-2016, 05:02 PM
#3417
Tech Regular
Not sure why everyone is so worried about sanding and gluing the CF parts. It's not needed, the CF stuff now is really good quality. Cheap CF can delam but the quality stuff doesn'. I've been running Schumacher off road cars for 3 years and I have never had a issue with any CF parts. I've never sanded and sealed any of the parts and to date, I have never had a piece of CF break, crack, or delam.
09-25-2016, 06:11 PM
#3418
Tech Regular
iTrader: (34)
Not sure why everyone is so worried about sanding and gluing the CF parts. It's not needed, the CF stuff now is really good quality. Cheap CF can delam but the quality stuff doesn'. I've been running Schumacher off road cars for 3 years and I have never had a issue with any CF parts. I've never sanded and sealed any of the parts and to date, I have never had a piece of CF break, crack, or delam.
09-25-2016, 07:01 PM
#3419
Not sure why everyone is so worried about sanding and gluing the CF parts. It's not needed, the CF stuff now is really good quality. Cheap CF can delam but the quality stuff doesn'. I've been running Schumacher off road cars for 3 years and I have never had a issue with any CF parts. I've never sanded and sealed any of the parts and to date, I have never had a piece of CF break, crack, or delam.
