649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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08-21-2016, 08:29 AM
#2746
Tech Rookie
I put a front wing on, in part so that it will protect the shock tower a bit. It consists of a Pro-Line bracket on the front of the shock tower, but I've mounted up a JConcepts narrow wing to it (which is a bit taller), with 4mm of spacers under the wing so it sticks up just enough to hopefully keep the shock towers from being able to dig in and snap. I'm running on packed and sealed clay though, not carpet....so I think the car slides more when upside down than it would on carpet.
08-21-2016, 09:12 AM
#2747
What's the most common front wing used the narrow or wide wing mounted on the front or rear of the shock tower?
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
08-21-2016, 01:01 PM
#2748
where is everyone mounting their transponders?
08-21-2016, 03:33 PM
#2750
It is as if my battery strap is just a little bit narrower than the posts, too. But it only takes a little pressure/sideways flex to get it to go on....not too big of a deal. On the plus side, that side pressure once it is on would probably hold the strap even without the top nuts....though of course I still use the nuts.
08-21-2016, 04:11 PM
#2751
08-21-2016, 05:42 PM
#2753
Tech Rookie
Sure, I guess it is possible they lean ever so slightly....even though I inspected all parts when they came out of the bags, and took care in assembling everything precisely. I chalk it up to tolerances, but I haven't had it back apart yet since the initial assembly. When I do, I'll inspect things. I am not talking about it being too far off....but when someone asks if the battery strap needs a bit of finessing to get on, I can confirm that experience. Nothing that is a big deal, but it is there.
08-21-2016, 06:51 PM
#2755
Tech Initiate
*double post*
Last edited by Limeaway; 08-21-2016 at 07:10 PM.
08-21-2016, 07:05 PM
#2756
Tech Initiate
Took my b6d out to the track for the first time today and almost finished my day without breaking anything. 
Technically didn't break and actually just lost a rear inner hinge pin. Easy fix.
Anyway, being my first experience with 2wd buggys (17.5), I had no real issues learning how to drive the b6d with the box setup with the exception of jumps. I feel as if I just don't get enough acceleration on jumps and it keeps me from moving around the track quickly. I have a Reedy Sonic 17.5 with 72/31 gearing.
I was having the most trouble with the rhythm section at my track which most were taking as a "double double" and the final set of jumps before the straight (single double). Here's a video of the current layout:
https://youtu.be/n9g0LsxYXq4
Should I be able to take the jumps the way I described with a 17.5 setup, or am I really limited to taking single jumps? My first instinct was to tighten my slipper a bit, as I did have a little bit of slipping happening on full throttle. Other than that though I didn't know what else to tweak.
Technically didn't break and actually just lost a rear inner hinge pin. Easy fix. Anyway, being my first experience with 2wd buggys (17.5), I had no real issues learning how to drive the b6d with the box setup with the exception of jumps. I feel as if I just don't get enough acceleration on jumps and it keeps me from moving around the track quickly. I have a Reedy Sonic 17.5 with 72/31 gearing.
I was having the most trouble with the rhythm section at my track which most were taking as a "double double" and the final set of jumps before the straight (single double). Here's a video of the current layout:
https://youtu.be/n9g0LsxYXq4
Should I be able to take the jumps the way I described with a 17.5 setup, or am I really limited to taking single jumps? My first instinct was to tighten my slipper a bit, as I did have a little bit of slipping happening on full throttle. Other than that though I didn't know what else to tweak.
08-21-2016, 07:26 PM
#2757
I don't think broken shock towers have anything to do with a weakness in the parts or materials.
It's a knife edge when it comes in contact with whatever surface - there is no give, it digs in hard and snaps rather than giving a bit or sliding like the plastic/composite parts.
Waiting for some enterprising aftermarket parts company to make the same shock towers in carbon, but route a nice rounded leading edge. I bet breakage would almost be non-existent overnight.
Or, as I have done, bend a small piece of spare lexan over that leading edge. I've tumbled plenty on carpet, and have not had a single issue. Others driving the same chassis have broken them when run without any protection.
It's a knife edge when it comes in contact with whatever surface - there is no give, it digs in hard and snaps rather than giving a bit or sliding like the plastic/composite parts.
Waiting for some enterprising aftermarket parts company to make the same shock towers in carbon, but route a nice rounded leading edge. I bet breakage would almost be non-existent overnight.
Or, as I have done, bend a small piece of spare lexan over that leading edge. I've tumbled plenty on carpet, and have not had a single issue. Others driving the same chassis have broken them when run without any protection.
08-21-2016, 09:31 PM
#2760
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Took my b6d out to the track for the first time today and almost finished my day without breaking anything. Technically didn't break and actually just lost a rear inner hinge pin. Easy fix.
Anyway, being my first experience with 2wd buggys (17.5), I had no real issues learning how to drive the b6d with the box setup with the exception of jumps. I feel as if I just don't get enough acceleration on jumps and it keeps me from moving around the track quickly. I have a Reedy Sonic 17.5 with 72/31 gearing.
I was having the most trouble with the rhythm section at my track which most were taking as a "double double" and the final set of jumps before the straight (single double). Here's a video of the current layout:
https://youtu.be/n9g0LsxYXq4
Should I be able to take the jumps the way I described with a 17.5 setup, or am I really limited to taking single jumps? My first instinct was to tighten my slipper a bit, as I did have a little bit of slipping happening on full throttle. Other than that though I didn't know what else to tweak.
Technically didn't break and actually just lost a rear inner hinge pin. Easy fix. Anyway, being my first experience with 2wd buggys (17.5), I had no real issues learning how to drive the b6d with the box setup with the exception of jumps. I feel as if I just don't get enough acceleration on jumps and it keeps me from moving around the track quickly. I have a Reedy Sonic 17.5 with 72/31 gearing.
I was having the most trouble with the rhythm section at my track which most were taking as a "double double" and the final set of jumps before the straight (single double). Here's a video of the current layout:
https://youtu.be/n9g0LsxYXq4
Should I be able to take the jumps the way I described with a 17.5 setup, or am I really limited to taking single jumps? My first instinct was to tighten my slipper a bit, as I did have a little bit of slipping happening on full throttle. Other than that though I didn't know what else to tweak.
Bruce
