649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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08-17-2016, 03:37 PM
#2672
The B6 is my first buggy in 5 years. It is pretty much the stock setup. I did remove some anti squat, .5. I've also dropped in the Schelle B5 rear hubs as it helped with dropping the ride height. I'll swap them for the the new version when they come out if I feel the need. Right now I don't think it's needed. I like the way it corners, jumps and lands. I spend more time in the on road world, so it was relaxing to just go out and have some fun and worry more about setting up jumps and landings and not so much about passing or being passed. I'd recommend it to any beginner as it it stable to drive and very durable. It instills confidence after only a couple of laps. Keep the shiny side up going as efficiently as possible and you'll do well with this rig. The one upgrade I think it really needs is turnbuckles, so I have some Lunsford sets to swap in and picked up a couple odd sizes for tuning options. I'm not doing Ti for weight, but for the right length as I felt the kit units threaded too far into the ball cup. I'd recommend practicing until you can run with the big guns, then sweat the bling as all it is is just bling.
08-17-2016, 04:34 PM
#2673
Has anybody seen setups posted anywhere from nats ?
08-17-2016, 07:46 PM
#2680
Tech Initiate
Recently got into 17.5 racing. I wanted to get a used b5m so that my investment was minimal, but it turns out I'm hooked. I will be upgrading to a b6 in the near future so I'm wondering how many parts are interchangeable? Should I rock out with the b5m as is until I upgrade or can I continue making it more competitive until I decide to spring for the b6?
08-17-2016, 08:12 PM
#2681
Recently got into 17.5 racing. I wanted to get a used b5m so that my investment was minimal, but it turns out I'm hooked. I will be upgrading to a b6 in the near future so I'm wondering how many parts are interchangeable? Should I rock out with the b5m as is until I upgrade or can I continue making it more competitive until I decide to spring for the b6?
Last edited by mellow; 08-17-2016 at 10:31 PM.
08-18-2016, 05:46 AM
#2683
Recently got into 17.5 racing. I wanted to get a used b5m so that my investment was minimal, but it turns out I'm hooked. I will be upgrading to a b6 in the near future so I'm wondering how many parts are interchangeable? Should I rock out with the b5m as is until I upgrade or can I continue making it more competitive until I decide to spring for the b6?
