649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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07-17-2016, 11:47 PM
#1666
SDRC is closing??
07-17-2016, 11:58 PM
#1668
Tech Apprentice
07-18-2016, 02:22 AM
#1669
Tech Adept
Raced my B6 on carpet last night...haven't driven for two months due to work, got third in the A, best result in ages!
Went to 0mm on rack for more initial steering, and went long wheelbase in rear, both improvements for our track. Laid front shocks in on tower too...still not quite enough initial steering but tonnes on exit.
Really impressed with the car; I need to drive it better and investigate the set up a bit more...but great first outing.
Went to 0mm on rack for more initial steering, and went long wheelbase in rear, both improvements for our track. Laid front shocks in on tower too...still not quite enough initial steering but tonnes on exit.
Really impressed with the car; I need to drive it better and investigate the set up a bit more...but great first outing.
07-18-2016, 09:08 AM
#1671
Nice setup. How's that motor at ocrc btw and gearing? Was thinking of trying one.
QUOTE=tropmonky;14603754]I thought I'd post pics of my ride with wiring for you. I kept the blue anodized turnbuckles since my paint job has a lot of blue, however I did use my B5M blacked out shock accessories.
I started with the Kody Numedahl setup and made a couple tweaks to suit stock racing at OCRC a little more. I ran Expert Stock and qualified 2nd and finished 3rd in the A-main. A few more tweaks and it'll be even faster. Great car!
Build notes: Mostly titanium scews, a few stainless screws where I didn't have ti for the right size, titanium turnbuckles, full size shorty battery, standard stock body, AKA pinstripe front and Crosslink rears (clay)= 1503g total racing weight.
QUOTE=tropmonky;14603754]I thought I'd post pics of my ride with wiring for you. I kept the blue anodized turnbuckles since my paint job has a lot of blue, however I did use my B5M blacked out shock accessories.
I started with the Kody Numedahl setup and made a couple tweaks to suit stock racing at OCRC a little more. I ran Expert Stock and qualified 2nd and finished 3rd in the A-main. A few more tweaks and it'll be even faster. Great car!
Build notes: Mostly titanium scews, a few stainless screws where I didn't have ti for the right size, titanium turnbuckles, full size shorty battery, standard stock body, AKA pinstripe front and Crosslink rears (clay)= 1503g total racing weight.
Awesome looking build. I was also considering that exotek slipper eliminator, but on exotek's page, it doesn't have the B6 under the list of cars that the slipper eliminator will fit on. did you have to make any other changes to make it fit?
Side question, why is everyone running the laydown transmission in the B6D? what does that do for you?
07-18-2016, 09:22 AM
#1672
It's a cheaper method to get a car with flat arms and a ball diff.
Most really liked the flat front arms on the B5M, and that's why the Lite car came with them stock.
When it came B6 time, most went right to the flat arms but wanted a laydown with the ball diff.
The B6D is massively successful because for $330 (with coupons) you can have virtually two cars. Laydown and stand up, flat and gulls. The price of AE parts are stellar.
Most really liked the flat front arms on the B5M, and that's why the Lite car came with them stock.
When it came B6 time, most went right to the flat arms but wanted a laydown with the ball diff.
The B6D is massively successful because for $330 (with coupons) you can have virtually two cars. Laydown and stand up, flat and gulls. The price of AE parts are stellar.
07-18-2016, 09:56 AM
#1673
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
The lay down transmission moves weight lower and forward, obviously. The benefit is when the track has enough traction, the landowners transmission will allow the car to stay flatter and therefore carry more corner speed. On lower grip tracks the stand up transmission allows more weight to transfer to the rear, increasing grip.
07-18-2016, 10:35 AM
#1674
No setup sheet
Correction done: http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...gring20160430/
And Ryan's one as well: http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...gring20160429/
And Ryan's one as well: http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...gring20160429/
07-18-2016, 10:44 AM
#1675
It's a growing trend. Most people complain about the race fees, and don't buy their parts at their local hobby shop because they are cheaper online. They say if you want to make a small fortune in the RC business, start with a huge fortune.
