649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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06-16-2016, 04:01 PM
#781
Correct, you should get the B6D because it will only cost about $35 to convert your transmission to laydown (instead of Converting a B6 to a dirt car, you'd need a ball diff, front tower, front arms aprox. $80) To convert your dirt car to laydown you will need:
Part #: 91708 (Laydown gear box $8.99)
Part #: 91709 (Chassis Brace, aka waterfall $8.99)
Part #: 91715 (Laydown motor plate $13.99)
Part #: 91716 (Laydown 39t idler gear $5.99)
I also recommend you run a brass C mount if you're going to run a laydown on clay; Part #: 91716
Part #: 91708 (Laydown gear box $8.99)
Part #: 91709 (Chassis Brace, aka waterfall $8.99)
Part #: 91715 (Laydown motor plate $13.99)
Part #: 91716 (Laydown 39t idler gear $5.99)
I also recommend you run a brass C mount if you're going to run a laydown on clay; Part #: 91716
06-16-2016, 04:21 PM
#782
Correct, you should get the B6D because it will only cost about $35 to convert your transmission to laydown (instead of Converting a B6 to a dirt car, you'd need a ball diff, front tower, front arms aprox. $80) To convert your dirt car to laydown you will need:
Part #: 91708 (Laydown gear box $8.99)
Part #: 91709 (Chassis Brace, aka waterfall $8.99)
Part #: 91715 (Laydown motor plate $13.99)
Part #: 91716 (Laydown 39t idler gear $5.99)
I also recommend you run a brass C mount if you're going to run a laydown on clay; Part #: 91716
And the parts should be available before or by the time the car comes out, they are already getting some stuff in stock. But my guess is the parts will sell out fast because everyone will be wanting the same parts at first. So keep an eye on the website and order the stuff you want when you see it in stock.
Part #: 91708 (Laydown gear box $8.99)
Part #: 91709 (Chassis Brace, aka waterfall $8.99)
Part #: 91715 (Laydown motor plate $13.99)
Part #: 91716 (Laydown 39t idler gear $5.99)
I also recommend you run a brass C mount if you're going to run a laydown on clay; Part #: 91716
And the parts should be available before or by the time the car comes out, they are already getting some stuff in stock. But my guess is the parts will sell out fast because everyone will be wanting the same parts at first. So keep an eye on the website and order the stuff you want when you see it in stock.
06-16-2016, 05:09 PM
#783
Great info here. Thanks.
06-16-2016, 05:28 PM
#784
06-16-2016, 07:54 PM
#785
Correct, you should get the B6D because it will only cost about $35 to convert your transmission to laydown (instead of Converting a B6 to a dirt car, you'd need a ball diff, front tower, front arms aprox. $80) To convert your dirt car to laydown you will need:
Part #: 91708 (Laydown gear box $8.99)
Part #: 91709 (Chassis Brace, aka waterfall $8.99)
Part #: 91715 (Laydown motor plate $13.99)
Part #: 91716 (Laydown 39t idler gear $5.99)
I also recommend you run a brass C mount if you're going to run a laydown on clay; Part #: 91716
And the parts should be available before or by the time the car comes out, they are already getting some stuff in stock. But my guess is the parts will sell out fast because everyone will be wanting the same parts at first. So keep an eye on the website and order the stuff you want when you see it in stock.
Part #: 91708 (Laydown gear box $8.99)
Part #: 91709 (Chassis Brace, aka waterfall $8.99)
Part #: 91715 (Laydown motor plate $13.99)
Part #: 91716 (Laydown 39t idler gear $5.99)
I also recommend you run a brass C mount if you're going to run a laydown on clay; Part #: 91716
And the parts should be available before or by the time the car comes out, they are already getting some stuff in stock. But my guess is the parts will sell out fast because everyone will be wanting the same parts at first. So keep an eye on the website and order the stuff you want when you see it in stock.
06-16-2016, 10:22 PM
#786
They did the testing at 702 in Vegas, I can't wait for the cars to arrive. Schumacher cars from Oregon were pretty fast when they came down for our indoor Nevada Championships about 6 weeks ago. You should get a good reading if he brings the B6.
06-17-2016, 01:15 AM
#787
Tech Initiate
06-17-2016, 01:43 AM
#788
I will be planning on running the 12g C block at first in stock, if my car is still underweight and I need quite a bit more rear traction then I will try the 25g C block.
06-17-2016, 05:41 AM
#789
If you are going to run the stock transmission that is found in the B6D then you will want 91687. Because of the way the 91687 part is designed, it can be run in both the B6 and the B6D.
That is how I understand it.
06-17-2016, 06:51 AM
#790
Kraig, I think he was talking about stock as in a 17.5 motor not a "stock" car
06-17-2016, 08:00 AM
#794
Question regarding the rear shocks...The b5m uses 31mm the b6 27mm. The shafts are the same length and the 31mm shocks just have additional cleareance/volume at the top of the shock body that isn't used, so really what is the difference besides lowering center of gravity with the 27mm? Since both use the same shaft they would have the same amount of full extension rebound and compression. The 31mm can hold more fluid, but does that donanything since the piston will move through the same amount space in both 27mm and 31mm given the shafts are the same??
06-17-2016, 08:02 AM
#795
Question regarding the rear shocks...The b5m uses 31mm the b6 27mm. The shafts are the same length and the 31mm shocks just have additional cleareance/volume at the top of the shock body that isn't used, so really what is the difference besides lowering center of gravity with the 27mm? Since both use the same shaft they would have the same amount of full extension rebound and compression. The 31mm can hold more fluid, but does that donanything since the piston will move through the same amount space in both 27mm and 31mm given the shafts are the same??