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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-13-2016, 04:52 AM   #1411
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Hi all

B6 shocks; what specific machined pistons will fit them?

I ask as its the first time I've had the shocks shafts with the 'screw in' pistons rather than secured by circlips.

Any thoughts appreciated; would prefer to buy in pairs than fours.

Thanks
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Old 07-13-2016, 05:32 AM   #1412
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I've used VRP for my 12mm shocks on my T5M....just make sure they say for V2 shocks.
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Old 07-13-2016, 05:56 AM   #1413
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schelle v2 machined pistons will work, and any other v2 screw pistons.
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Old 07-13-2016, 06:02 AM   #1414
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Have any of you heard of cvd length issues with the new kits? My cvd's are 96mm. When I set the rear camber links per the manual (27mm between the ball cups) the cvds just barely touch the out drives. Now, I haven't put it on the set up station and fine tuned anything, but I thought this was odd. Here's a couple pics of what I'm talking about. Any down travel at all would have the shafts popping out of the out drives.

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Old 07-13-2016, 06:07 AM   #1415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceR. View Post
Have any of you heard of cvd length issues with the new kits? My cvd's are 96mm. When I set the rear camber links per the manual (27mm between the ball cups) the cvds just barely touch the out drives. Now, I haven't put it on the set up station and fine tuned anything, but I thought this was odd. Here's a couple pics of what I'm talking about. Any down travel at all would have the shafts popping out of the out drives.

I see it asking for 23mm on the D kit...
You can see the extreme positive camber of the hub as well.

Last edited by Silverstonev8; 07-13-2016 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 07-13-2016, 06:19 AM   #1416
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha View Post
Interesting pics of Brian Kinwald's B6:



Where can I get those turnbuckles?
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Old 07-13-2016, 06:41 AM   #1417
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What lipo do you guys plan to use ?
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Old 07-13-2016, 07:00 AM   #1418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceR. View Post
Have any of you heard of cvd length issues with the new kits? My cvd's are 96mm. When I set the rear camber links per the manual (27mm between the ball cups) the cvds just barely touch the out drives. Now, I haven't put it on the set up station and fine tuned anything, but I thought this was odd. Here's a couple pics of what I'm talking about. Any down travel at all would have the shafts popping out of the out drives.

Are the shocks mounted?
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Old 07-13-2016, 07:00 AM   #1419
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Where can I get those turnbuckles?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/jconcep...co2580/p513039
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Old 07-13-2016, 07:09 AM   #1420
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[QUOTE=BruceR.;14600083]Have any of you heard of cvd length issues with the new kits? My cvd's are 96mm. When I set the rear camber links per the manual (27mm between the ball cups) the cvds just barely touch the out drives. Now, I haven't put it on the set up station and fine tuned anything, but I thought this was odd. Here's a couple pics of what I'm talking about. Any down travel at all would have the shafts popping out of




The B6 manual is alittle sketchy. It shows the rear camber link ballstud in the outer hole in one pic in the manual but the next pic shows it in the middle hole. It also shows it in the middle hole on the camber link length page. That would help your situation
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Old 07-13-2016, 07:17 AM   #1421
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Originally Posted by Sean B. View Post
Where can I get those turnbuckles?
There's a guy on Facebook that will annodize the turnbuckles for $10 if you ship them to him. Like the B6 page. It's somewhere in there.

Edit: just looked it up. Bubba's Bling is his Facebook page.
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Old 07-13-2016, 07:21 AM   #1422
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While the kit build was impressive and many items seem higher quality than the b5m and forget about the b44.3... The manual needed a good art director and proofer.

Battery hold down "thumb" screws... Can anyway actually tighten or untighten those "thumb" screws by hand?
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Old 07-13-2016, 07:24 AM   #1423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceR. View Post
Have any of you heard of cvd length issues with the new kits? My cvd's are 96mm. When I set the rear camber links per the manual (27mm between the ball cups) the cvds just barely touch the out drives. Now, I haven't put it on the set up station and fine tuned anything, but I thought this was odd. Here's a couple pics of what I'm talking about. Any down travel at all would have the shafts popping out of the out drives.



I wonder if you could buy the aluminum D mount and use inserts in the D mount to bring the entire rear arm suspension closer to the diff?
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Old 07-13-2016, 07:33 AM   #1424
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
There's a guy on Facebook that will annodize the turnbuckles for $10 if you ship them to him. Like the B6 page. It's somewhere in there.

Edit: just looked it up. Bubba's Bling is his Facebook page.

Thanks for that
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Old 07-13-2016, 07:37 AM   #1425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceR. View Post
Have any of you heard of cvd length issues with the new kits? My cvd's are 96mm. When I set the rear camber links per the manual (27mm between the ball cups) the cvds just barely touch the out drives. Now, I haven't put it on the set up station and fine tuned anything, but I thought this was odd. Here's a couple pics of what I'm talking about. Any down travel at all would have the shafts popping out of the out drives.
I would wait until you get everything put together and ready to race before getting to worried about the issue you posted. Mainly because of the responses from other people about the manual being a little off so to speak.
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