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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 06-16-2016, 05:01 PM   #781
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Originally Posted by Mxer210 View Post
Correct, you should get the B6D because it will only cost about $35 to convert your transmission to laydown (instead of Converting a B6 to a dirt car, you'd need a ball diff, front tower, front arms aprox. $80) To convert your dirt car to laydown you will need:
Part #: 91708 (Laydown gear box $8.99)
Part #: 91709 (Chassis Brace, aka waterfall $8.99)
Part #: 91715 (Laydown motor plate $13.99)
Part #: 91716 (Laydown 39t idler gear $5.99)

I also recommend you run a brass C mount if you're going to run a laydown on clay; Part #: 91716
We'll need to get a B6 body as well won't we?
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:21 PM   #782
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Originally Posted by Mxer210 View Post
Correct, you should get the B6D because it will only cost about $35 to convert your transmission to laydown (instead of Converting a B6 to a dirt car, you'd need a ball diff, front tower, front arms aprox. $80) To convert your dirt car to laydown you will need:
Part #: 91708 (Laydown gear box $8.99)
Part #: 91709 (Chassis Brace, aka waterfall $8.99)
Part #: 91715 (Laydown motor plate $13.99)
Part #: 91716 (Laydown 39t idler gear $5.99)

I also recommend you run a brass C mount if you're going to run a laydown on clay; Part #: 91716

And the parts should be available before or by the time the car comes out, they are already getting some stuff in stock. But my guess is the parts will sell out fast because everyone will be wanting the same parts at first. So keep an eye on the website and order the stuff you want when you see it in stock.
Sounds good. Thanks for clearing that up.
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Old 06-16-2016, 06:09 PM   #783
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Great info here. Thanks.
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Old 06-16-2016, 06:28 PM   #784
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We'll need to get a B6 body as well won't we?
No, both AE bodies are the exact same for each car. That one body has the cut out marks for all 3 configurations; Laydown, 3 gear stand up, and 4 gear stand up
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Old 06-16-2016, 08:54 PM   #785
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Originally Posted by Mxer210 View Post
Correct, you should get the B6D because it will only cost about $35 to convert your transmission to laydown (instead of Converting a B6 to a dirt car, you'd need a ball diff, front tower, front arms aprox. $80) To convert your dirt car to laydown you will need:
Part #: 91708 (Laydown gear box $8.99)
Part #: 91709 (Chassis Brace, aka waterfall $8.99)
Part #: 91715 (Laydown motor plate $13.99)
Part #: 91716 (Laydown 39t idler gear $5.99)

I also recommend you run a brass C mount if you're going to run a laydown on clay; Part #: 91716

And the parts should be available before or by the time the car comes out, they are already getting some stuff in stock. But my guess is the parts will sell out fast because everyone will be wanting the same parts at first. So keep an eye on the website and order the stuff you want when you see it in stock.
Could you confirm the part# for the brass C mount and would that be good to use in a stock buggy? I looked at the AE page and found Part# 91687 12g C block and 91690 25g. What would be the one to use? Thanks
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Old 06-16-2016, 11:22 PM   #786
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Originally Posted by MOmo View Post
Its rumored that a certain Engineer from AE will be visiting our local track since he is going to be home visiting family and that he packed a B6 with him and will be testing on our indoor Turf/Carpet tracks..........


Can't wait to see what all the Hype is about....
They did the testing at 702 in Vegas, I can't wait for the cars to arrive. Schumacher cars from Oregon were pretty fast when they came down for our indoor Nevada Championships about 6 weeks ago. You should get a good reading if he brings the B6.
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Old 06-17-2016, 02:15 AM   #787
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Originally Posted by SuperBoots View Post
We'll need to get a B6 body as well won't we?
I think so, I you want to run 3gear stand up trans and laydown trans, you will need two bodies, one cutted for the stand up and otherone non cutted for the laydown.

It should be included in the first post.
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Old 06-17-2016, 02:43 AM   #788
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Could you confirm the part# for the brass C mount and would that be good to use in a stock buggy? I looked at the AE page and found Part# 91687 12g C block and 91690 25g. What would be the one to use? Thanks
Sorry, I copied the wrong part number. The C block I think that will be best is Part #:91687 (12g) It's also the one Spencer and Brent were running at the JConcepts Spring National at Tacoma RC

I will be planning on running the 12g C block at first in stock, if my car is still underweight and I need quite a bit more rear traction then I will try the 25g C block.
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Old 06-17-2016, 06:41 AM   #789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvrslt1 View Post
Could you confirm the part# for the brass C mount and would that be good to use in a stock buggy? I looked at the AE page and found Part# 91687 12g C block and 91690 25g. What would be the one to use? Thanks
If you are going to use the laydown transmission in your car, it is my understanding that you will want the 91690 part number because that is what is listed under the parts list for the B6.

If you are going to run the stock transmission that is found in the B6D then you will want 91687. Because of the way the 91687 part is designed, it can be run in both the B6 and the B6D.

That is how I understand it.
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Old 06-17-2016, 07:51 AM   #790
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Kraig, I think he was talking about stock as in a 17.5 motor not a "stock" car
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Old 06-17-2016, 08:24 AM   #791
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Ah ok. I will admit I didn't read if he posted which car he was getting. So I thought I would mention which one would work on which car.
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Old 06-17-2016, 08:35 AM   #792
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Kraig,

I was getting an error message trying to edit the wiki last night, is there an issue?
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Old 06-17-2016, 08:40 AM   #793
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha View Post
Kraig,

I was getting an error message trying to edit the wiki last night, is there an issue?
I created one today for another thread and was editing it quite a bit without an issue. Try it today and if it doesn't work, post here the link to this thread and what you wanted to add.
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Old 06-17-2016, 09:00 AM   #794
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Question regarding the rear shocks...The b5m uses 31mm the b6 27mm. The shafts are the same length and the 31mm shocks just have additional cleareance/volume at the top of the shock body that isn't used, so really what is the difference besides lowering center of gravity with the 27mm? Since both use the same shaft they would have the same amount of full extension rebound and compression. The 31mm can hold more fluid, but does that donanything since the piston will move through the same amount space in both 27mm and 31mm given the shafts are the same??
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Old 06-17-2016, 09:02 AM   #795
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Originally Posted by Finalist View Post
Question regarding the rear shocks...The b5m uses 31mm the b6 27mm. The shafts are the same length and the 31mm shocks just have additional cleareance/volume at the top of the shock body that isn't used, so really what is the difference besides lowering center of gravity with the 27mm? Since both use the same shaft they would have the same amount of full extension rebound and compression. The 31mm can hold more fluid, but does that donanything since the piston will move through the same amount space in both 27mm and 31mm given the shafts are the same??
the b6 has lower rear shock towers....so the weight of the shocks is lower. lower cg
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