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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-17-2017, 10:12 AM   #7471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyshore View Post
Tried searching, but didn't see what I was looking for...

With the revised battery strap in the B6 having a center hole for what appears to be a link mount to the trans, does AE sell a specific part to utilize this?
I haven't seen a revised battery Strap. Got a link? Photo?
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Old 10-17-2017, 12:02 PM   #7472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyshore View Post
Tried searching, but didn't see what I was looking for...

With the revised battery strap in the B6 having a center hole for what appears to be a link mount to the trans, does AE sell a specific part to utilize this?
Not currently but you use the same length turnbuckle as the rest of the car uses. Then put shocks ends on it.
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Old 10-17-2017, 02:03 PM   #7473
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Not currently but you use the same length turnbuckle as the rest of the car uses. Then put shocks ends on it.
Any advantages in this, or is it just a new, shiny thing?
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Old 10-17-2017, 06:09 PM   #7474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyshore View Post
Tried searching, but didn't see what I was looking for...

With the revised battery strap in the B6 having a center hole for what appears to be a link mount to the trans, does AE sell a specific part to utilize this?
Are you sure that's an AE part? There are multiple aftermarket companies offering what you describe.
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Old 10-17-2017, 06:11 PM   #7475
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I think it is used in place of waterfall brace on laydown trans to facilitate a more rearward mounted lipo in lower grip conditions. I guess it would add some more flex as well
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Old 10-17-2017, 06:45 PM   #7476
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Any advantages in this, or is it just a new, shiny thing?
It allows you to remove the waterfall and adjust the lipo much further back.

There are aftermarket companies that offer straps like this but ae has revised the plastic kit brace.
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Old 10-17-2017, 07:05 PM   #7477
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Would that work on 3 gear stand up also?
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Old 10-17-2017, 07:13 PM   #7478
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Schelle Racing makes a great one..Its a lipo brace and turnbuckle.
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Old 10-17-2017, 07:14 PM   #7479
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Would that work on 3 gear stand up also?
Yes, the Schelle brace will work.
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Old 10-17-2017, 11:39 PM   #7480
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Hadnít thought of that. Smart. I like the look of the Exotek version.

My stock brace never holds the battery well enough. Always seems to slide forward a bit.
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Old 10-18-2017, 02:18 AM   #7481
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whats the smallest pinion count you can run with a 69t spur? im changing from mod to 17.5. on my track the gearing guide is bang on for my track at 24-25/78 for the 10.5 .
im looking at going with a fantom v3 motor but the gearing suggestions from some on 17.5 facebook page are waaay different like 28/72 or even 34/69.
anyone running a V3 fantom motor?? any suggestions on gearing taking in to account the suggested gearing was pretty bang on in the book for 10.5?
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Old 10-18-2017, 10:15 AM   #7482
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does the revised kit battery hold-down as mentioned earlier have a AE part number ????? Haven't seen anything about this update
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Old 10-18-2017, 10:21 AM   #7483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lunchie View Post
whats the smallest pinion count you can run with a 69t spur? im changing from mod to 17.5. on my track the gearing guide is bang on for my track at 24-25/78 for the 10.5 .
im looking at going with a fantom v3 motor but the gearing suggestions from some on 17.5 facebook page are waaay different like 28/72 or even 34/69.
anyone running a V3 fantom motor?? any suggestions on gearing taking in to account the suggested gearing was pretty bang on in the book for 10.5?
31/69 is a good starting point for 17.5 but you can probably go up to a 33 with that motor
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Old 10-18-2017, 11:21 AM   #7484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Hadnít thought of that. Smart. I like the look of the Exotek version.

My stock brace never holds the battery well enough. Always seems to slide forward a bit.
How? There are posts on the stock brace that would keep the battery from moving anywhere...
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Old 10-18-2017, 02:37 PM   #7485
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Quote:
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How? There are posts on the stock brace that would keep the battery from moving anywhere...
Donít know how, but the battery is able to put enough pressure on those posts to bend the front edge of the brace upwards enough for the pack to slide forwards.

I canít see how Iíd be able to crank it down any more than I have. Itís already at the verge of bending the mounting ears off. Iíve got the foam underneath to help as well.

Iím fairly sure of this posts were a little longer, or the brace made of a stiffer plastic, it would be better.
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