649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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06-22-2017, 04:27 AM
#6781
Tech Apprentice
anyone know why MIP is discontinuing there puck and bi-metal ball diffs?
Are they coming out with something new?
Are they coming out with something new?
06-22-2017, 10:21 AM
#6783
Starting a new B6 build and wanted to get some opinions on a stock 17.5 setup.
Here's what I have in my shopping cart so far.
Team Kit RC10 B6
Avid Triad Stock Slipper Clutch (72t)
Avid 7mm Clamping Wheel Hex Set
Maclan MMax Pro 160a ESC & Maclan 17.5 SS Motor Combo
Robinson Racing 48p 30t Pinion Gear
Futaba S3305 Standard High-Torque MG Servo
Reedy Zappers LiPo 3600mAh 100C 7.6V LP Shorty
Any other must have upgrades?
Here's what I have in my shopping cart so far.
Team Kit RC10 B6
Avid Triad Stock Slipper Clutch (72t)
Avid 7mm Clamping Wheel Hex Set
Maclan MMax Pro 160a ESC & Maclan 17.5 SS Motor Combo
Robinson Racing 48p 30t Pinion Gear
Futaba S3305 Standard High-Torque MG Servo
Reedy Zappers LiPo 3600mAh 100C 7.6V LP Shorty
Any other must have upgrades?
Last edited by millsj2; 06-22-2017 at 11:10 AM.
06-22-2017, 10:34 AM
#6784
Only must have upgrades imo is the aluminum d block and brass c block (12 or 25g)I'd get a pinion closer to 30t, and maybe swap it out for a parma plastic one or 175RC PolyPro. If you're running on clay/dirt get a ball diff. Kit should already come with 7mm rear hexes. Grab some 5mm or 6mm if you want to buy spares. Stock slipper is fine, but you could always buy a lockout (exotek/schelle/avid etc.) to have that option.
06-22-2017, 10:59 AM
#6785
Broke my b6 stock wing on the first race. I wanted to try jconcepts aero s-type wing out so i bought a couple of this. Im running a bumpy high grip carpet track, what wing do you use?
06-22-2017, 11:04 AM
#6786
Only must have upgrades imo is the aluminum d block and brass c block (12 or 25g)I'd get a pinion closer to 30t, and maybe swap it out for a parma plastic one or 175RC PolyPro. If you're running on clay/dirt get a ball diff. Kit should already come with 7mm rear hexes. Grab some 5mm or 6mm if you want to buy spares. Stock slipper is fine, but you could always buy a lockout (exotek/schelle/avid etc.) to have that option.
06-22-2017, 11:06 AM
#6787
06-22-2017, 11:06 AM
#6788
Only must have upgrades imo is the aluminum d block and brass c block (12 or 25g)I'd get a pinion closer to 30t, and maybe swap it out for a parma plastic one or 175RC PolyPro. If you're running on clay/dirt get a ball diff. Kit should already come with 7mm rear hexes. Grab some 5mm or 6mm if you want to buy spares. Stock slipper is fine, but you could always buy a lockout (exotek/schelle/avid etc.) to have that option.
06-22-2017, 11:08 AM
#6789
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
Starting a new B6 build and wanted to get some opinions on a stock 17.5 setup.
Here's what I have in my shopping cart so far.
Team Kit RC10 B6
Avid Triad Stock Slipper Clutch (72t)
Avid 7mm Clamping Wheel Hex Set
Maclan MMax Pro 160a ESC & Maclan 17.5 SS Motor Combo
Robinson Racing 48p 20t Pinion Gear
Futaba S3305 Standard High-Torque MG Servo
Reedy Zappers LiPo 3600mAh 100C 7.6V LP Shorty
Any other must have upgrades?
Here's what I have in my shopping cart so far.
Team Kit RC10 B6
Avid Triad Stock Slipper Clutch (72t)
Avid 7mm Clamping Wheel Hex Set
Maclan MMax Pro 160a ESC & Maclan 17.5 SS Motor Combo
Robinson Racing 48p 20t Pinion Gear
Futaba S3305 Standard High-Torque MG Servo
Reedy Zappers LiPo 3600mAh 100C 7.6V LP Shorty
Any other must have upgrades?
MIP pucks is also a nice upgrade
06-22-2017, 11:11 AM
#6790
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
06-22-2017, 11:15 AM
#6791
Will the old AE Axle hub w/ the TLR bones work with the new hubs, or do we need the complete axle/hub combo?
06-22-2017, 12:00 PM
#6794
Gear depends on lots of factors but we are running 6:1 on 17.5t currently.
I would suggest something close to 6.5-7:1 as start.