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Team Associated B6 & B6D thread

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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 05-25-2017, 11:40 AM
  #6646  
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https://www.amainhobbies.com/losi-ba...331006/p536647

same offsets, throw as AE one made in 23T and 25T
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Old 05-25-2017, 12:39 PM
  #6647  
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Sunday I got another 3rd place podium finish with the B6D latemodel.
The fastest guys in Sprint Car are running AFX converted B6's

If I was going to run a Sprint id just get the Custom Works.
Just to let you offroad guys know a B6 and B6D can be competitive in dirt oval also.
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Old 05-26-2017, 12:37 AM
  #6648  
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Originally Posted by caioz1jp
Can anyone recommend a servo horn, 24T for hitech, that will work with the B6D. Tried the TLR but it did not clear.
im running a tlr horn in my b6 with a trackstar servo...it required just a slight shave of the bulkhead stay thing hwere the servo horn gets close to..many people have to shave it there.

is that where you are hitting?
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Old 05-26-2017, 02:05 PM
  #6649  
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I got my long tower and b5m rear shock kits today. I sprayed one side of the shock tower with the clear flex seal as suggested earlier in this thread. It looks like crap and dries foggy not clear. Don't think I like that much.

As someone said earlier; I can just move shocks from my b5m over. So, I just built the shock kit with the eyelets that came with them which look the same as the short eyelets from the b6d kit. As such, I had +5 spring perches on the b5m so I put + 5 on these for the b6d as well.

I put the same pistons and springs that I had on the stock b6d shocks and used the same mounting locations. My goal was to not to negatively change the setup and handling from what I already had...as I liked it the way it was for now. Just looking to improve the cushioning from the added oil volume and if I get a little extra rear grip...well, I won't complain about that either.

Does it sound like I am going about this right? Or, am I missing/forgetting something?
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Old 05-26-2017, 06:52 PM
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Default Mounting Tires - Holes or No Holes

I am mounting a set of Gold Dirt Webs on Associated Rims for my B6 that I use on a Clay track. The rims have holes already....do I put holes in the tires also?
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Old 05-26-2017, 08:55 PM
  #6651  
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Originally Posted by denon
I am mounting a set of Gold Dirt Webs on Associated Rims for my B6 that I use on a Clay track. The rims have holes already....do I put holes in the tires also?
If you use traction compounds on your tires, it's better not to vent them. It allows solvents to break down the foam faster.

If you race outdoors on looser dirt, it's better to vent the tires and plug the rims so dirt can escape.
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Old 05-27-2017, 04:17 AM
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Anyone else having trouble with the pin (trans side) coming out of the 67mm Schelle aluminum bone? Have about 10 packs on mine and if I don't hammer it back in every run it'll work its way out. Emailed Schelle, zero response. They are basically trash at this point, pretty lame.
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Old 05-27-2017, 04:23 AM
  #6653  
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Originally Posted by onefast8
Anyone else having trouble with the pin (trans side) coming out of the 67mm Schelle aluminum bone? Have about 10 packs on mine and if I don't hammer it back in every run it'll work its way out. Emailed Schelle, zero response. They are basically trash at this point, pretty lame.
Give him time to respond...or message him via facebook. I think there is a new aluminum bone that comes with a updated pin.
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Old 05-27-2017, 05:39 AM
  #6654  
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Originally Posted by onefast8
Anyone else having trouble with the pin (trans side) coming out of the 67mm Schelle aluminum bone? Have about 10 packs on mine and if I don't hammer it back in every run it'll work its way out. Emailed Schelle, zero response. They are basically trash at this point, pretty lame.
I have had mine since they first released them...no problems at all. I am sure he will take care of you.
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Old 05-27-2017, 09:22 AM
  #6655  
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Originally Posted by onefast8
Anyone else having trouble with the pin (trans side) coming out of the 67mm Schelle aluminum bone? Have about 10 packs on mine and if I don't hammer it back in every run it'll work its way out. Emailed Schelle, zero response. They are basically trash at this point, pretty lame.
appears they have a issue, text in release says

(The newest batch of CVA bones have a custom machined drive pin which will not shift in the softer aluminum material.)

New Schelle B6 67mm Lite hybrid CVA conversion set :: LiveRC.com - R/C Car News, Pictures, Videos, and More
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Old 05-27-2017, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Davidka
If you use traction compounds on your tires, it's better not to vent them. It allows solvents to break down the foam faster.

If you race outdoors on looser dirt, it's better to vent the tires and plug the rims so dirt can escape.
Thanks!!
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Old 05-27-2017, 09:27 PM
  #6657  
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Finished up my 3rd race day (back in the hobby after a few years off). Decided to run mod buggy since turn out was light for the holiday weekend. Even though I have ran 1/8th scale ebuggy, It is the first time I have run mod buggy since the early 90's. Ran my new B6 with Tekin 8.5. It killed my driving. I have ran my stock buggy the last two race days and they went really well. After the first two heats today, I decided I was ruining my driving style. The two days running stock buggy I felt like I was getting the hang of it back in short order. Dropping the mod buggy on the track I honestly felt like a true beginner. It was like a light switch for power. Either on or off and no in between. The driver was horrible! Anyway, after round two they had some down time and I asked if I could make a few laps with my stock buggy. After a couple of laps of getting used to "no speed"...I turned faster laps than I had been in mod. So the moral of my story is....no mod buggy for me for a while. Start slow....get smoother...then try to go faster!!
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Old 05-27-2017, 09:38 PM
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Portx that's 100% the truth man. I run a 7.5 on a larger track with the punch turned wayyyyyy down for the tight stuff so I can still be smooth but have the top end I want on the long straights. At a smaller track I run at I use a 17.5 in the mod buggy class and I've NEVER been out motored or failed to be on the podium due to the little motor. A smaller track is all about corner speed and smooth throttle over power and I've won mod buggy with a 17.5 there. Huge tracks are a different story though of course.
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Old 05-27-2017, 09:44 PM
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Slodsm...yes this is a smaller indoor carpet off-road track. I made the mistake of buying a stock buggy, mod buggy and a 4wd B64 all at once basically. I really should have taken my time and started at stock buggy for an extended time. After the first night in stock buggy I thought to myself..."oh yeah I remember how to do this and it will come back quick". Well mod buggy just gave me a reality check! The mod buggy and 4wd car will have to wait. Sadly the 4wd car has not hit the track yet....
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Old 05-27-2017, 09:54 PM
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i found the opposite. when my ESC started playing up and i lost a bit of punch i found i was having to overdrive the car to keep up with the pack. now ive got my grunt back i can relax a bit and not drive 11/10ths through the turns and jumps but still make good lap times
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