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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 05-26-2016, 12:38 AM   #631
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Exactly what I mean..

You cannot be that blinded by the hype that this car will not change at all from the first ones out. A lot of times companies get feedback and make changes to make either the build better or some other issue because no car is perfect.
Even look at the B5 platform as awesome as I think the car was AE made changes along the way specifically with the FL As that was the car I had personally and the build was amazing compared to when my buddy came over for some help with his B5m kit which he got an early kit on. It wasn't bad at all but there were changes made.
I know it's not a huge deal I am just a bit more picky about my builds and I know there are others like me.
Take it easy with the crystal ball and don't be blinded by the hype.. I'm an AE fanboy and it's unrealistic to think such a big company cannot make mistakes
Any company dealing with small, molded plastics, at this price level is usually manufacturing in China. There are always QC issues when looking over this. Theyre going to have to inspect their first initial manufacturing runs etc. Even AE likely doesn't know the exact release date and when they will be completely satisfied with the molds.. THey are likely going off of the scheduled completion of the molds and maybe building in some cushion. If something goes wrong expect delays. I'd rather have a few weeks delay than have to deal with a bunch of mods and work I have to do to get the kit right... My 2 cents

Last edited by Matt Trimmings; 05-26-2016 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 05-26-2016, 11:30 AM   #632
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Long shot question...

Iwant to pull all my ti screws from my b5m for a future b6. It looks like a lot of them will work but the b6 uses a lot more button heads. Does anyone have a screws part list? Looks like Schelle knows as they are already selling them, but exact screw types and lengths aren't listed. I don't need an entire screw kit.
Email me [email protected] if you want to get the different screws on a B6. Many new ones are 14mm BH and there will be lots of extra flat heads which you can re-used on chassis bottom to hold the gearbox down or something.
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Old 05-26-2016, 12:36 PM   #633
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Wow, under a day for Schelle to respond on a forum post! That's fantastic customer service.

Like some of you, I'm going to keep my B5M for quite a while after the B6 is released to see how the new kit performs before taking the plunge.
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Old 05-26-2016, 03:11 PM   #634
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Email me [email protected] if you want to get the different screws on a B6. Many new ones are 14mm BH and there will be lots of extra flat heads which you can re-used on chassis bottom to hold the gearbox down or something.

Oh h3ll yeah! That is awesome! Emailing and pay palling asap
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Old 05-27-2016, 07:06 AM   #635
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i have a b5m lite. i run it outdoor mod., indoor mod., and indoors 17.5.
the buggy does well for me.

if i picked up a b6d will it be able to all this better?
or better to keep the b5m lite run it as 17.5 and run b6d as mod.???
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Old 05-27-2016, 07:23 AM   #636
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Originally Posted by floyd2810 View Post
i have a b5m lite. i run it outdoor mod., indoor mod., and indoors 17.5.
the buggy does well for me.

if i picked up a b6d will it be able to all this better?
or better to keep the b5m lite run it as 17.5 and run b6d as mod.???
Well, it won't improve your driving skills just by switching cars. I say this because the pros jump from manufacturer to manufacturer and their results are relatively, if not, the same.

What I do know is that the B6 line of cars have more tuning options available for you. Things like laydown transmission, shocks on the front or rear of the rear arms, front spindle has a greater range of adjustment (up/down), rear hub carriers can be adjusted up/down, new steering blocks that don't have bearing inserts, new steering block arm design to possibly allow for more ackerman changes in the future. How could I forget updated ball cups.

I think you should read this document (pdf) from Associated. It shows most if not all of the new things on the B6D.
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Old 05-27-2016, 07:47 AM   #637
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thanks for the pdf kraig, i agree with you on driving skills and at my age
my best driving days are behind me. what the b5m lite buggy did do for me
was prove i dont need my b4.2 rm buggy any more. mm was faster for me
indoor and outside. with all those adjustments how could you go wrong.
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Old 05-27-2016, 10:41 AM   #638
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Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
Well, it won't improve your driving skills just by switching cars. I say this because the pros jump from manufacturer to manufacturer and their results are relatively, if not, the same.

What I do know is that the B6 line of cars have more tuning options available for you. Things like laydown transmission, shocks on the front or rear of the rear arms, front spindle has a greater range of adjustment (up/down), rear hub carriers can be adjusted up/down, new steering blocks that don't have bearing inserts, new steering block arm design to possibly allow for more ackerman changes in the future. How could I forget updated ball cups.

I think you should read this document (pdf) from Associated. It shows most if not all of the new things on the B6D.
To play devils advocate Cavalieri was struggling to make Amains in Nitro at the end of the RC8b2 run. Got the B3 and is winning races and podium info every race. So a better car can help even the second greatest racer ever improve their results
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Old 05-27-2016, 11:19 AM   #639
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To play devils advocate Cavalieri was struggling to make Amains in Nitro at the end of the RC8b2 run. Got the B3 and is winning races and podium info every race. So a better car can help even the second greatest racer ever improve their results
We could also argue that RM has not had the same success with tlr as he did with AE in 10th scale.
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Old 05-27-2016, 11:29 AM   #640
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But the facts are still a car will not automatically make you better or faster. I can still drive a Losi 8ight 2.0 as fast as a mbx7r or my JQ. My buddy can take my own personal car and go atleast a second faster than me. How does that justify the car being the reason why you go fast or slow. TLR and AE have had big wins so to say one is better or worse is completely wrong. A really good driver could take an outdated b4 and beat an average driver with the latest and greatest products.
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Old 05-27-2016, 12:00 PM   #641
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Correct. Both cars have the 27mm rear shocks.
so they are shorter then the b5? how about the fronts...are they the same as B5?
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Old 05-27-2016, 12:05 PM   #642
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We could also argue that RM has not had the same success with tlr as he did with AE in 10th scale.
I thought I was the only one thinking that.... In my opinion his results were much better under the AE tent.
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Old 05-27-2016, 12:48 PM   #643
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We could also argue that RM has not had the same success with tlr as he did with AE in 10th scale.
Didn't he finally win the Reedy Race once he switched and came close to winning it again this year? He's only been with TLR for like 2 years vs over a decade with Associated. I am a big fan of both brands btw just playing devils advocate.
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Old 05-27-2016, 01:12 PM   #644
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so they are shorter then the b5? how about the fronts...are they the same as B5?
yes, fronts are the same, rears are shorter.
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Old 05-27-2016, 01:14 PM   #645
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Didn't he finally win the Reedy Race once he switched and came close to winning it again this year? He's only been with TLR for like 2 years vs over a decade with Associated. I am a big fan of both brands btw just playing devils advocate.
I didnt say he never won. I said he has not seen the same success. But...he seems to put all of his effort into 8th scale, so that could be a cause.
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Last edited by Wildcat1971; 05-27-2016 at 10:26 PM.
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