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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 02-24-2017, 09:09 AM
  #5821  
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Default More steering

Originally Posted by radioctrlhead
i installed the +1 plates and will need to install the gullwings which i have purchased. I have made some changes to the car so I will make additional changes to see how it works out but just driving it around the house it seems like it inherently has a wider turning radius... kinda strange.. but i am a strange guy so...
Also I lengthened the steering link about 1mm or less and it helped the turning radius as well . If you go gull arms you should also be using the gull tower
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Old 02-24-2017, 09:27 AM
  #5822  
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Originally Posted by Jason B
Had mine on the track for the second time, and really digging the car. Back end is a touch squirrel coming out of the corners on-throttle. I have the kit setup + laydown (shocks still on rear, though). Thinking of the following changes, in order:

- + 0.5 degrees antiquat
- Rear hubs forward
- Front lower shock mounts to B (middle) position
- 32.5wt front shocks
- Rear upper shock mounts to 1
Jason , I went to laydown on the B6d and had to make a bunch of changes in the rear . I run on highbite clay/dirt mix with m4 primes

Where are your shocks mounted front or rear of the tower ? I had to move then to the front of the rear tower. I tried moving the top rear shock setting in from center but it did not help. Also I added a 25g c mount and had to widen the rear of the car and went up +5 and out +5 on the c block. D block I went out +5 from stock and I may now move the rear mounts down a half . I found on my track the car was very unstable out of the corner with the box stock set up.
Another thought is to check the rear diff and make sure it didn't loosen up as it wore in
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Old 02-24-2017, 09:42 AM
  #5823  
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Originally Posted by Johnn27
Jason , I went to laydown on the B6d and had to make a bunch of changes in the rear . I run on highbite clay/dirt mix with m4 primes

Where are your shocks mounted front or rear of the tower ? I had to move then to the front of the rear tower. I tried moving the top rear shock setting in from center but it did not help. Also I added a 25g c mount and had to widen the rear of the car and went up +5 and out +5 on the c block. D block I went out +5 from stock and I may now move the rear mounts down a half . I found on my track the car was very unstable out of the corner with the box stock set up.
Another thought is to check the rear diff and make sure it didn't loosen up as it wore in
I left the shocks on the rear of the tower, just to help keep some weight back there. I still have the stock C/D blocks on the rear... might pick up the alum C block. I'm still wrapping my head around the hold positions and what they do so forgive me, but wouldn't going out +5 on the C block decrease toe-in?
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Old 02-24-2017, 09:56 AM
  #5824  
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Default Move The Shocks !!!!

Originally Posted by Jason B
I left the shocks on the rear of the tower, just to help keep some weight back there. I still have the stock C/D blocks on the rear... might pick up the alum C block. I'm still wrapping my head around the hold positions and what they do so forgive me, but wouldn't going out +5 on the C block decrease toe-in?
You need to move the shocks to the front of the tower center top hole and inner rear hole on the front of the arm . It will drive much better . When you move to laydown and move the motor forward you have to balance the car by moving the shocks
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Old 02-24-2017, 10:00 AM
  #5825  
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Default inserts

The inserts are very confusing to me. How can I found out what all the numbers mean and will do when inserted in the C and D mounts, and what each positioning they are put (up,down, in ,out) in will do to the B6 and B6D?
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Old 02-24-2017, 10:01 AM
  #5826  
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Originally Posted by Jason B
I left the shocks on the rear of the tower, just to help keep some weight back there. I still have the stock C/D blocks on the rear... might pick up the alum C block. I'm still wrapping my head around the hold positions and what they do so forgive me, but wouldn't going out +5 on the C block decrease toe-in?
Yes, it would, but if you move the d block out +5 as well, the toe stays the same.

Originally Posted by rgrg2
The inserts are very confusing to me. How can I found out what all the numbers mean and will do when inserted in the C and D mounts, and what each positioning they are put (up,down, in ,out) in will do to the B6 and B6D?
All the info is in the wiki, but check out these links to wrap your head around it. There really is an abundance of combinations, but play around with them at the track to see what happens.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ.../B6_PillChart/

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...upb6/B6_Chart/
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Old 02-24-2017, 10:35 AM
  #5827  
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Thanks!
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Old 02-24-2017, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnn27
You need to move the shocks to the front of the tower center top hole and inner rear hole on the front of the arm . It will drive much better .
Not sure how that solves the rear traction issue coming out of the corner, though... front of tower = less rear weight bias / less rear traction.
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Old 02-24-2017, 11:51 AM
  #5829  
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Originally Posted by Jason B
Not sure how that solves the rear traction issue coming out of the corner, though... front of tower = less rear weight bias / less rear traction.
Have you checked out the Hudy Off Road setup guide? It's a good reference with a lot more detailed information than the manual.
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Old 02-24-2017, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by mellow
Have you checked out the Hudy Off Road setup guide? It's a good reference with a lot more detailed information than the manual.
I'll definitely check it out
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Old 02-24-2017, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason B
I'll definitely check it out
Here's the link:

https://www.hudy.net/xhudy/showfile....2bef0706315e0c
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Old 02-24-2017, 12:36 PM
  #5832  
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Originally Posted by Jason B
Not sure how that solves the rear traction issue coming out of the corner, though... front of tower = less rear weight bias / less rear traction.
Yes, but I think the car needs the shocks closer to where the rear weight is located and with mid-laydown configuration that is closer to the middle of the car . So combining the shock move with widening the track width it makes the car more stable out of the corner and has more traction so it gets out of the corner better than before. Oh and it worked for me !
Lol
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Last edited by Johnn27; 02-24-2017 at 12:55 PM.
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Old 02-24-2017, 04:30 PM
  #5833  
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Originally Posted by Jason B
I'll definitely check it out
Just have to ask... are you saucing those tires?
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Old 02-24-2017, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Thrifty
Just have to ask... are you saucing those tires?
Nope
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Old 02-24-2017, 05:37 PM
  #5835  
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Night and day difference....
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