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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 05-19-2016, 08:56 AM   #556
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you are correct. According to AE. to lover the CG.
Thank You, I am just trying to get all the parts here so that I can have that stuff ready to go when my B6 and B6D come in. So are the B6 and the B6D both going to have the 27mm rear shocks then I am assuming?
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:58 AM   #557
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As far as hobbies go, rc is pretty cheap.
I totally agree. I could build another Drag quad and really piss my wife off...lol
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:59 AM   #558
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So looking at the parts list that is interchangeable between the B5M B6 and B6D I have one question about the FT Kashima/Fox Shocks. It has the ASC91576 (23mm Front) being used on all three but my questions comes with the ASC91577 ( 27mm Truck) is said to be used with only the B6/B6D and the ASC 91578 (31mm Rear Buggy) are used with withe only the B5/B5M.

Why is this? Did they really make the rear shocks 5mm shorter for the B6 series vehicles or am I missing something here?
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you are correct. According to AE. to lover the CG.
I suspect partly because of generally smoother surfaces and somewhat stiffer setups expected, less travel needed, seems to make sense.
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Old 05-19-2016, 09:29 AM   #559
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So are the B6 and the B6D both going to have the 27mm rear shocks then I am assuming?
Correct. Both cars have the 27mm rear shocks.
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Old 05-19-2016, 09:38 AM   #560
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I suspect partly because of generally smoother surfaces and somewhat stiffer setups expected, less travel needed, seems to make sense.
Saw this with both the Xray and the YZ2 - a noticeable lack of droop for both cars, dirt and carpet.
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Old 05-19-2016, 10:10 AM   #561
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Saw this with both the Xray and the YZ2 - a noticeable lack of droop for both cars, dirt and carpet.
Yes, pretty basic setup stuff. Rough lower speed tracks need more travel, especially droop, more linear/vertical shock positions, less spring and especially damping. Smoother the opposite. Things the bench test methods, while useful to a degree, frequently don't incorporate very well.

At the extreme due to the variety of tracks we have or had in the areas I've primarily club raced at we would change shock lengths and towers track to track even.
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Old 05-19-2016, 10:39 AM   #562
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Default new buggy

Ok, people complain about AE for making a New buggy. But here are people that want a new platform. Make up your minds. They had issues with B5M, so they worked on making it better. It will be the same story. If AE left b5m alone people will complain that they don't care about us . They are not just for money, they want to win, just like any other company. Look at Losi, they just made 3.0, to catch up with the times. I see a Losi 4.0 coming, because 3.0 has many flaws, just like b5m. So people that say AE just wants money, than go buy another rc , and give them your money. This is how all companies stay in business, not just AE. I'm glad they made changes, these changes are what people wanted, remember that.
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Old 05-19-2016, 11:38 AM   #563
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B5m has many flaws? Most of them were addressed in the factory lite version which I happen to have. Other than ALL cars having flaws the B5m was a successful overall platform for 90% of people.
Pros are gonna tinker with cars no matter what it is
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Old 05-19-2016, 11:39 AM   #564
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there's actually no less down travel with the shorter shock bodies. The same shaft is used and the shock tower is lower than the b5m. Unless of course the shock tower wasn't lowered the same amount as the shock bodies, but I do believe I read that Kody said it was.
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Old 05-19-2016, 11:54 AM   #565
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Saw this with both the Xray and the YZ2 - a noticeable lack of droop for both cars, dirt and carpet.
If you remove the shock cap of the current B5M rear shocks, there is a good 4mm + of space between the piston and cap. So going to a 27.5mm rear bodies will not reduce travel, just eliminates the dead space thus reducing height.
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Old 05-19-2016, 12:08 PM   #566
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there's actually no less down travel with the shorter shock bodies. The same shaft is used and the shock tower is lower than the b5m. Unless of course the shock tower wasn't lowered the same amount as the shock bodies, but I do believe I read that Kody said it was.
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If you remove the shock cap of the current B5M rear shocks, there is a good 4mm + of space between the piston and cap. So going to a 27.5mm rear bodies will not reduce travel, just eliminates the dead space thus reducing height.
Ah, good info, thanks.
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Old 05-19-2016, 12:25 PM   #567
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Thanks for the insight with the rear shocks. I am going to have to order a few sets for when my B6 series whips come in
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Old 05-19-2016, 02:12 PM   #568
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Default flex,

Factory light chassis needed more flex, shock position in the rear is a great option to provide more traction, able to adjust hieght of car through caster and hubs. So many changes, b5m is a great car but some stuff needed change. I'm just saying the guy saying associated is just in it for the money is wrong. They just wanted to be even more competitive. So it's going to cost us and them to get us a car we can adjust to many track conditions. B5m is still a great car. People would have complained about AE that they keeping an outdated car, but now that they improved on things that b5m didn't have. Some are complaining it's for the money. Well could be some what true but it's for the cost of providing a little better platform. Every company does it. So who ever don't like just give money to another company, no matter what your going to spend money in this hobby, no matter what brand.
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Old 05-19-2016, 04:39 PM   #569
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SC6?
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Old 05-19-2016, 04:45 PM   #570
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SC6?
Kyosho makes one. Check out that thread.
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