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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 02-02-2017, 07:02 PM   #5536
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Originally Posted by bmag5000 View Post
Losi just released their 2wd Stadium Truck, Associated shouldn't be far off.

Probably going to be called T6D or something wouldn't surprise me.

I kinda need it to replace my aging T4.2....lol
What does this have to do with the b6 or b6d?
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Old 02-02-2017, 07:52 PM   #5537
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Nothing. He seems to like to post random things...
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Old 02-02-2017, 08:19 PM   #5538
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Its just the truck version of the B6D?
Okay whatever lets talk about the B6 and B6D
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Old 02-02-2017, 09:27 PM   #5539
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new exotek flite released.... look so nice!
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Old 02-03-2017, 03:39 AM   #5540
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Anybody using a different rear wing than the AE or J Concepts that is more durable? Somewhat of a newbie and I'm going through wings like a fat guy at Hooters.
I'm using this Team Durango 1.5mm HD Straight Wing, it's pretty damn tough. And being a rookie, it shall last you a while even with the rubber side up.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-du...480015/p487572

I used it when I had a Schumacher, their wings were really weak. And it has lasted me into the B6D. I haven't even cut out the stock wing yet.
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Old 02-03-2017, 05:25 AM   #5541
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The Losi wings are nice and come pre-cut.
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Old 02-03-2017, 05:49 AM   #5542
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Guys that have tried the rear sway bar: I was thinking about using it on super highbite clay tracks but ive noticed most pros dont use them even on such conditions for 2wd buggy. Why is that?
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Old 02-03-2017, 06:13 AM   #5543
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I ordered a set of Schelle Aluminum hubs and I'm thinking of getting some of the lightened bones as well. The question I have is should I get the 65 or 67 mm bones? Do I require anything additional besides what I already have stock on the buggy to make them work properly? I've seen a post where someone used a 6mm hub instead of the stock 5.
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Old 02-03-2017, 07:13 AM   #5544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orion_2kTC View Post
I ordered a set of Schelle Aluminum hubs and I'm thinking of getting some of the lightened bones as well. The question I have is should I get the 65 or 67 mm bones? Do I require anything additional besides what I already have stock on the buggy to make them work properly? I've seen a post where someone used a 6mm hub instead of the stock 5.
I have the Schelle hubs that were also used on the B5M and use the 65mm axles.
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Old 02-03-2017, 07:18 AM   #5545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orion_2kTC View Post
I ordered a set of Schelle Aluminum hubs and I'm thinking of getting some of the lightened bones as well. The question I have is should I get the 65 or 67 mm bones? Do I require anything additional besides what I already have stock on the buggy to make them work properly? I've seen a post where someone used a 6mm hub instead of the stock 5.
In order to use the 67mm bones, you have to also have either the BMI inserts or mill out the bearing recess in the hubs to push the bearings out 1-1.5mm. If you don't have/do either of those, you will need to use the standard 65mm bone length.
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Old 02-03-2017, 07:21 AM   #5546
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Thank you. 65mm it is.
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Old 02-03-2017, 07:33 AM   #5547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orion_2kTC View Post
Thank you. 65mm it is.
Schelle will have the modified axles available this month to accommodate the 67mm axles. No need to machine or get the BMI inserts.
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Old 02-03-2017, 07:37 AM   #5548
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Schelle will have the modified axles available this month to accommodate the 67mm axles. No need to machine or get the BMI inserts.
Seeing the pics from the Factory Team drivers at the Reedy race, It looks like AE has something they're working on as well.
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Old 02-03-2017, 01:03 PM   #5549
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Found a set of JConcepts B5m titanium turnbuckles in my spare parts bin. I see that the lengths are different by 4mm, anyone using these on their B6d?

Thanks!
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Old 02-03-2017, 02:57 PM   #5550
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Originally Posted by FDDA15 View Post
Found a set of JConcepts B5m titanium turnbuckles in my spare parts bin. I see that the lengths are different by 4mm, anyone using these on their B6d?

Thanks!
I'm using my Lunsfords from my 5m with zero issues.
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