649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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01-31-2017, 04:44 PM
#5491
Yea I was just wanting to know if I take .5 out of stock setup for a highbite track if that will free the car up a tick and rotate more through the tight 180's. if so then should I do the same thing to the d block. I am still trying to understand when to add and subtract antisquat so idk when I would use that setting lol
01-31-2017, 05:30 PM
#5492
Tech Regular
Yea I was just wanting to know if I take .5 out of stock setup for a highbite track if that will free the car up a tick and rotate more through the tight 180's. if so then should I do the same thing to the d block. I am still trying to understand when to add and subtract antisquat so idk when I would use that setting lol
01-31-2017, 05:39 PM
#5493
no you leave it where it is so the relative position is different. so for you to remove some toe from stock youd change the c pill from .5 out to 1 out to give 2/1 toe/antisquat. if you THEN wanted to add .5 antisquat youd need a d block as the 2/1.5 isntan option with just the c block.... you coul dhowever run 2.5/1.5 with just the c block...confused? lol
01-31-2017, 06:40 PM
#5494
Tech Adept
Those pills will melt your brain if you're not quite sure what does what. There are about a million combinations you could do there. I don't have this car... but to free it up, I would raise the roll center. So, say .5 up on the C mount and .5 up on the D mount. To see what more antisquat does, try 1 up on the C mount (with .5 up on the D mount still).
02-01-2017, 12:48 AM
#5495
Tech Regular
just try raising you roll center by only using 2mm shims under the inner ballstud instead of 3mm. then maybe go for less toe in the rear by going out by .5 on the c block. dont get too hung up on the d block just yet...drive it and see if you like it. the box setup is pretty damn good right out of the box if just a little bit low on roll center on the rear for my liking.
my car running a box stock setup on carpet was within 0.2 seconds a lap from the Amain winner in a tricked out YZ2 so the setup is good. (not like my driving however)
my car running a box stock setup on carpet was within 0.2 seconds a lap from the Amain winner in a tricked out YZ2 so the setup is good. (not like my driving however)
02-01-2017, 04:25 AM
#5496
just try raising you roll center by only using 2mm shims under the inner ballstud instead of 3mm. then maybe go for less toe in the rear by going out by .5 on the c block. dont get too hung up on the d block just yet...drive it and see if you like it. the box setup is pretty damn good right out of the box if just a little bit low on roll center on the rear for my liking.
my car running a box stock setup on carpet was within 0.2 seconds a lap from the Amain winner in a tricked out YZ2 so the setup is good. (not like my driving however)
my car running a box stock setup on carpet was within 0.2 seconds a lap from the Amain winner in a tricked out YZ2 so the setup is good. (not like my driving however)
02-01-2017, 06:13 AM
#5497
Tech Rookie
02-01-2017, 06:28 AM
#5498
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Yea I was just wanting to know if I take .5 out of stock setup for a highbite track if that will free the car up a tick and rotate more through the tight 180's. if so then should I do the same thing to the d block. I am still trying to understand when to add and subtract antisquat so idk when I would use that setting lol
02-01-2017, 01:47 PM
#5500
On lower traction dirt we run the pin spacing narrower for more rear grip on exit. On carpet they tend to run the spacing wide. Im told on indoor clay they run them higher to get more steering.
02-01-2017, 02:18 PM
#5501
The D block allows additional adjustments as you can raise / lower the hinge pin (which has a big effect on roll centre) and you can make the spacing of the pins wider or narrower (which has a big effect on rear stability on and off power). You can then adjust squat and toe by adjusting the c/d blocks relative to each other.
On lower traction dirt we run the pin spacing narrower for more rear grip on exit. On carpet they tend to run the spacing wide. Im told on indoor clay they run them higher to get more steering.
On lower traction dirt we run the pin spacing narrower for more rear grip on exit. On carpet they tend to run the spacing wide. Im told on indoor clay they run them higher to get more steering.
02-01-2017, 04:29 PM
#5502
I don't see how the 31mm rear shocks help if you use the same 27.5mm shaft. Can someone please explain? Thanks!!!
02-01-2017, 04:49 PM
#5503
more oil
02-01-2017, 06:14 PM
#5504