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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-26-2017, 08:03 AM   #5431
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Guys I'm about to pull the trigger on a b6 lay down. What are the must have option parts, weights, springs etc.. we run on outdoor astro. Thanks
personally I would give the various setups out there a look and find one that fits what you believe are you conditions and start there.

Though, consistently I think you will see the rear D block as one item to be changed and it seems the steering rack componenets going to aluminum is another consistent thing, at least for the high traction setups I have been looking at.
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Old 01-26-2017, 08:25 AM   #5432
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Guys I'm about to pull the trigger on a b6 lay down. What are the must have option parts, weights, springs etc.. we run on outdoor astro. Thanks
Front titanium axles, under battery brass weights. Maybe front brass bulkhead
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Old 01-26-2017, 09:52 AM   #5433
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Guys are using different axles with the 67mm bone setup?
No, you use the stock axle with the 67mm bone combined with the BMI bearing spacers and eithe the 6mm or 5mm rear hex
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Old 01-26-2017, 11:41 AM   #5434
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Well since last night was his first night running on that layout, I'm sure just the track time heloped with the lower lap times. The benefit of the schelle bones is you can run lighter weight while maintaining the drive pins. The pucks are currently he only lightweight bone option. These work for guys that want a lighter drive train without running pucks or rollers.
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Old 01-26-2017, 01:16 PM   #5435
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Exotek is making Ti 65mm bones now too. They work with the stock axle. I have them but haven't tried them yet.
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Old 01-26-2017, 02:47 PM   #5436
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I've run the 65mm and 67mm exotek dog bones and haven't had any issues. But that's in a 17.5 buggy over the course of about 6 race days.
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Old 01-26-2017, 02:47 PM   #5437
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so if i get the new schelle 67mm bones, i can use standard B6 axles but whose hubs? schelle make offset inserts for this new part? cause i'm not finding the BMI ones
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Old 01-26-2017, 04:03 PM   #5438
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It was talked about a couple pages back and there's contact info for bmi. One option people are doing, including myself, is to use the aluminum rear hubs, bmi offset inserts, 67mm dogbones, and either 5mm or 6mm hexes.
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Old 01-26-2017, 08:12 PM   #5439
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https://prostarrc.ecwid.com/#!/Titan...egory=22368263

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Old 01-27-2017, 06:20 AM   #5440
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wow those pins are looking a little rough..
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Old 01-27-2017, 05:42 PM   #5441
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So many upgrades, so much indecision if I should.
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Old 01-28-2017, 04:44 AM   #5442
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So many upgrades, so much indecision if I should.
Honestly I don't think this buggy needs any upgrades. I'm glad there is allot of choices out there if you wanted to but many of them are just for the blind factor.
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Old 01-28-2017, 07:50 AM   #5443
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so if i get the new schelle 67mm bones, i can use standard B6 axles but whose hubs? schelle make offset inserts for this new part? cause i'm not finding the BMI ones
I would not use those on turf.
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Old 01-28-2017, 08:48 AM   #5444
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Originally Posted by Kalio View Post
With that gearing you shouldn't have any problem running at least 45 degrees of timing. My experience has been the Reedy motors seem to perform best at 45-48 deg (haven't really tried above that, 48 is about gets it about as hot as I'm willing to let it). I could be wrong but that's just how it seems to me.
This is interesting!
I'd like to add my own observations; I'm still getting my head around motors and gearing voodoo for 17.5, so sorry for being long winded.

I have struggled to get the kind of performance out of a reedy 17.5 that other people seem to suggest they are capable of.
(I also run at NorCal, having been to only one practice session on the new track and that double is a buggy-buster!)

On the old layout, I was trying to figure out how to even clear the much lower triple jump that everybody else seemed to have no trouble with without going down in gearing. No luck at all with the Reedy. So I switched over to a Tekin redline V3 out of curiosity. Lo and behold, it seemed to respond better to increasing the timing and not get as hot. Anything over 42-ish degrees on the Reedy and it was getting too hot for comfort. (160-170 after a few minutes at 45deg) And it still didn't feel as fast on the straights, or clear that damn jump at 69/30, 72/30, 72/29 even. I figured it just didn't have the same punch as the redline, which was great everywhere else on the track.
I put the reedy away, seeing as all the stuff i was reading about it says '40deg timing is the sweet spot', and cranking it up to the very end of the dots on the end bell was pretty much the only way it seemed comparable - but I never tried it with a fan.
Now I want to dig it back out and see what it's like at the very end of that timing spectrum.

And... I digress. The solution to clearing those triples on the old layout, for me, was the Redline V3, and lighter drive train. Going from stock- once I got MIP pucks and bones and a shelle slipper in there, just to see what that was like, it was no problem!

The big double on the new track required me to go down 72/30 to 72/28 with the redline. It seems to like a bit more aggressive gearing in general, though.

... Now, where is that reedy motor ...
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Old 01-28-2017, 01:01 PM   #5445
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Default Shocks length

Hello everyone,
I'd like to know overall length of front (23mm body) and rear (27.5mm body) B6 shocks, full elongated length from axle to axle.
If anyone have already measured them, it would be very helpfull
Thanks.
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