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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-23-2017, 05:40 PM   #5386
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Default servo

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Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
I'm sure you'll get tonnes of answers here to a question like that, but my 2c is Savox 1257TG. Amain had 20% off all servos toward the end of last year, so I got another one.

I don't think you need the additional torque of the 1258 in a 2WD buggy, so why not go faster and get the 1257. I do run a 1258 in my T5M, and would probably choose the 1258 for the B64D if (when) I get that at some point.
Do you use, or do I need the Glitch Buster or certain servo horn?
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Old 01-23-2017, 06:19 PM   #5387
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Do you use, or do I need the Glitch Buster or certain servo horn?
The only way you'll need a glitch buster is if you are using a Spektrum radio. Otherwise, you'll be fine without it.
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Old 01-23-2017, 06:50 PM   #5388
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I also have Savox 1257 in my buggy. It has better speed numbers.
The 1258 has more torque- good for turning the larger tires on the T5M.
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Old 01-23-2017, 07:41 PM   #5389
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Originally Posted by linhof4 View Post
I have noticed for the last couple of weeks the B-Fast Web site is down. Does anyone know the fate of B-Fast? Where do you get your diff rings from if B-Fast is gone?
That sucks, I've removed them from the front page.

Here are some alternatives:

http://tkocompetitiondev.com/product...-diff-rings-2/

https://www.facebook.com/SLICK-Diffz-1420120568286577/

I haven't seen the slick diffz rings, but TKO ones are nice.
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Old 01-23-2017, 08:22 PM   #5390
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I've found the newer MIP rebuild kits to be pretty good when you use a ceramic caged thrust. MIP has stepped up the quality of those kits lately.
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Old 01-23-2017, 08:40 PM   #5391
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Old 01-24-2017, 01:00 AM   #5392
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Default Diggity Designs Carbon Fibre Motor Plate

Diggity Designs has released its performance line 3mm carbon fibre motor plate with spur guard for the B6. Rounded spur guard protects your spur from rubbing. Machined from US sourced quasi layer carbon fibre material. Contrary to belief when carbon fibre material is manufactured with the proper processes it will dissipate heat better than aluminum and steel. It also has better thermal expansion than aluminum and steel meaning that it will not warp or change due to temperature changes. Please check the website for more details.




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Old 01-24-2017, 01:11 AM   #5393
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After five months with the b6, I finally managed to snap a shock tower (rear)/break something significant. For any of the folks that run at norcal hobbies, I snapped the rear tower while attempting the big double on the newest layout . Didn't clear that thing once today! Reedy M3 17.5, approx. 40 deg timing, 30/72 gearing.

Anyway, is it safe to say that it's basically a popularity contest between all the different CF shock towers? From what I've read, there doesn't seem to be a brand that has stuck out as the most durable. VRP towers look interesting, but I worry about bending or damaging other parts with how often I flip, lol. Leaning towards sticking with AE towers since they are the cheapest and are stocked at the lhs.
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Old 01-24-2017, 04:00 AM   #5394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diggity View Post
Diggity Designs has released its performance line 3mm carbon fibre motor plate with spur guard for the B6. Rounded spur guard protects your spur from rubbing. Machined from US sourced quasi layer carbon fibre material. Contrary to belief when carbon fibre material is manufactured with the proper processes it will dissipate heat better than aluminum and steel. It also has better thermal expansion than aluminum and steel meaning that it will not warp or change due to temperature changes. Please check the website for more details.




Would this be something recommended for mod racers?
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Old 01-24-2017, 05:28 AM   #5395
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Default Front bulkhead spacer

What is the purpose of the front bulkhead spacer. Is that to lower roll center when running on carpet?
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Old 01-24-2017, 05:36 AM   #5396
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Originally Posted by BuddyLee303 View Post
What is the purpose of the front bulkhead spacer. Is that to lower roll center when running on carpet?
You can change the roll center by the camber links.
One thing I can see with this spacer/s is it move the bulkhead lower and forward from the chassis. Extending the wheelbase even if it's just a little bit. And it lifts the chassis further above the plane the lowest part of the bulkhead sits on.
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Old 01-24-2017, 06:00 AM   #5397
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Just a little fyi, Carbon Fiber does "not" dissipate heat better than aluminum.
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Old 01-24-2017, 06:06 AM   #5398
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Originally Posted by "Smiley" View Post
Just a little fyi, Carbon Fiber does "not" dissipate heat better than aluminum.
No it doesn't and I'd be hard pressed to think it doesn't hold the heat longer either too.
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Old 01-24-2017, 07:11 AM   #5399
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Originally Posted by Azzkikin View Post
No it doesn't and I'd be hard pressed to think it doesn't hold the heat longer either too.
What about Carbon Brake pads on Real Cars?
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Old 01-24-2017, 07:16 AM   #5400
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What about Carbon Brake pads on Real Cars?
As far as I know, the reason carbon brakes are good on cars is because of the temperatures they can withstand. Not necessarily the heat they dissipate.
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