649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
|
01-21-2017, 10:01 AM
#5356
01-21-2017, 11:49 AM
#5357
Hi Brad. I don't know what charger you use but I have the TQ leads and and a set of 3ft leads from Tuning Haus. I recommend the Tuning Haus leads. They aren't quite as clean as the TQ ones but the materials are excellent. I almost see no IR drop on the charger even thought they are a foot longer. Maybe I'll post pics to show you what I mean. I have ICharger 406s and do not need boards. Not sure what others are talking about. The Protek leads for $8 are total junk....don't make that an option. I have a few sets and I had to fix all of them at some point.
01-21-2017, 12:04 PM
#5358
Here are the pics. The quality on the TQ wires is excellent. I have those on my garage charger. The nicest feature is the stepped bullets that allow you to charge 4 or 5mm batteries. You need to do a tiny bit of trimming to get the plug to go into the icharger. It took 15 seconds with a razor blade.
01-21-2017, 12:07 PM
#5359
The Tuning Haus leads are massive. I think they are made of 10awg wire. Although the battery lead connectors are a little more clunky and industrial they probably would last longer......they don't look quite as clean but make up for it in utility. The balance port plug is a direct fit into the icharger. I stretched the leads out to show how far they reach. I usually have 3 or 4 cars on the bench so the extra length is very useful to me.
01-22-2017, 01:53 PM
#5360
Tech Rookie
Having clearance issue with steering. Servo horn is hitting top plate rail. Using Spektrum 6240 and team associated aluminum servo horn. Advice?
01-22-2017, 02:12 PM
#5362
Tech Apprentice
Has anyone had issues with the top of the shock shaft breaking inside the shock body. My brother and I have both had an instance where on my car one of the rear shafts had the screw come out and the shaft leave the body. On my brother's the top portion that is taper just broke off.
Both happened from crashes. Mine with a wall from hiring a jump crooked and my bro was trampled by a stampede.
I only ask because as much as I accept user error I just want to make sure I shouldn't look for a mor durable shaft replacement.
Both happened from crashes. Mine with a wall from hiring a jump crooked and my bro was trampled by a stampede.
I only ask because as much as I accept user error I just want to make sure I shouldn't look for a mor durable shaft replacement.
01-22-2017, 02:15 PM
#5363
Here are the pics. The quality on the TQ wires is excellent. I have those on my garage charger. The nicest feature is the stepped bullets that allow you to charge 4 or 5mm batteries. You need to do a tiny bit of trimming to get the plug to go into the icharger. It took 15 seconds with a razor blade.
Attachment 1407672
Attachment 1407673
Attachment 1407674
Attachment 1407672
Attachment 1407673
Attachment 1407674
01-23-2017, 03:13 AM
#5366
Has anyone had issues with the top of the shock shaft breaking inside the shock body. My brother and I have both had an instance where on my car one of the rear shafts had the screw come out and the shaft leave the body. On my brother's the top portion that is taper just broke off.
Both happened from crashes. Mine with a wall from hiring a jump crooked and my bro was trampled by a stampede.
I only ask because as much as I accept user error I just want to make sure I shouldn't look for a mor durable shaft replacement.
Both happened from crashes. Mine with a wall from hiring a jump crooked and my bro was trampled by a stampede.
I only ask because as much as I accept user error I just want to make sure I shouldn't look for a mor durable shaft replacement.
01-23-2017, 06:45 AM
#5367
Tech Rookie
Thank you
