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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-16-2017, 12:38 PM   #5251
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Amain was pleasant to deal with and matched towers member coupons.
How did you get amain to match tower coupons?
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Old 01-16-2017, 12:41 PM   #5252
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Originally Posted by roysays View Post
I put green Yatabe on the rear and red on the front, running a B6 on astroturf.
Seems a tad better, hard to tell a big difference. I had the springs that came with the kit on it before.
did you notice anything better bump handling wise?
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Old 01-16-2017, 12:52 PM   #5253
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did you notice anything better bump handling wise?
There is not allot of bumps on the track I race at but it did seems smoother over the few we have, not as stiff.
I kept the oil the same, 37.5F & 30R
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Old 01-16-2017, 02:37 PM   #5254
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Originally Posted by Tmack View Post
How did you get amain to match tower coupons?
full info here:

A MAIN HOBBIES WILL MATCH TOWER COUPONS!!!

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Originally Posted by roysays View Post
There is not allot of bumps on the track I race at but it did seems smoother over the few we have, not as stiff.
I kept the oil the same, 37.5F & 30R
Cool thanks. That could be what I am looking for. I may also give the whole 1.8 rear piston thing a look.
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Old 01-16-2017, 03:41 PM   #5255
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I realize the B5M & B6D are different cars but can anyone tell me why the B5m calls for limiters in frnt & rear shocks & the B6d only front??? CAn anyone dumb it down for me as to what the limiters really do, just limit travel or is there more to it?
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Old 01-16-2017, 04:47 PM   #5256
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I realize the B5M & B6D are different cars but can anyone tell me why the B5m calls for limiters in frnt & rear shocks & the B6d only front??? CAn anyone dumb it down for me as to what the limiters really do, just limit travel or is there more to it?
Rear shock bodies are shorter to save weight in the b6d.
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:10 PM   #5257
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Rear shock bodies are shorter to save weight in the b6d.
Ahhh.. Got Cha
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Old 01-16-2017, 09:21 PM   #5258
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Originally Posted by AE_Stig View Post
2x1.8 flat lands better for carpet racing

i thought 3x1.4 landed better on carpet?
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Old 01-16-2017, 10:17 PM   #5259
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Originally Posted by jabroni racing View Post
I realize the B5M & B6D are different cars but can anyone tell me why the B5m calls for limiters in frnt & rear shocks & the B6d only front??? CAn anyone dumb it down for me as to what the limiters really do, just limit travel or is there more to it?
It's mainly limiting droop which does a number of things. It produces less chassis roll which is better for higher grip. It increases traction as well on higher grip surfaces but doesn't jump and land as well. The geometry of the car has a lot to do with how much droop is ideal and there are many options with this car because of the longer rear shock tower and shock body variations as well as gull wing and flat front arm options
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Old 01-16-2017, 10:49 PM   #5260
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Originally Posted by bongoray View Post
Hey all,

I'm running an ecopower slingshot 17.5 motor in my B6D with a 31 pinion and 69 spur. Everyone at the track looked at me like I had 8 heads. I showed them the manual recommends this gearing. Saturday was the first time I ran this buggy. Am I insane or are others just out there? I should note they were all running different motors too (modified).

I'll be running it again tonight to check motor temps.
It all depends on the size of the track and you need to keep an eye on the temps. We run on a small high grip clay and I run about an 8 FDR.
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Old 01-17-2017, 01:00 AM   #5261
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Originally Posted by killshot01 View Post
For anyone running losi 22 3.0 rear hubs/axle and dogbones, what camber link setting and ball stud spacing?
Middle on bulkhead 1mm and shortest link on alum hub with 4mm
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Old 01-17-2017, 07:37 AM   #5262
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i thought 3x1.4 landed better on carpet?
3x1.4 can be a good option for some conditions but on carpet usually there is much less weight in the back and a larger hole piston is needed so there is less pack.
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Old 01-17-2017, 07:39 AM   #5263
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A lot of people in my area have converted their B5m to a Sprint Car.
There might be one available for the B6D also. I'm stumped I don't know if I should build one of them or just buy a Custom Works outlaw 3. The Outlaw 3 kit is $440
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Old 01-17-2017, 07:49 AM   #5264
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Originally Posted by AE_Stig View Post
3x1.4 can be a good option for some conditions but on carpet usually there is much less weight in the back and a larger hole piston is needed so there is less pack.
the pack I have right with the 1.7s leads me to think that is what is causing me some issues. Great car though and its nice to have a community and team drivers to bounce stuff off of and view setups.
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Old 01-17-2017, 08:26 AM   #5265
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Originally Posted by bmag5000 View Post
A lot of people in my area have converted their B5m to a Sprint Car.
There might be one available for the B6D also. I'm stumped I don't know if I should build one of them or just buy a Custom Works outlaw 3. The Outlaw 3 kit is $440
I raced sprint cars on a banked oval clay track for 2 years. I had a dd Custom Works. I personally never cared for the conversions. It's just ahead start out of the box. Although I have no experience with the newer Associated B5/B6 platforms on ovals. Try to find a Used one.
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