R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

Print Wikipost

Like Tree360Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-13-2017, 02:05 PM   #5221
Tech Champion
 
Logi Maker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 5,584
Trader Rating: 49 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sodakota View Post
I havent torn my diff down yet but i would think that you would be ok to put in both shafts as long as the one without gears is on the bottom. If my memory is correct on one side the notch doesnt go all the way down. If u put the one without gears in first then the one with gears on top it would hold everything together. I could be wrong though.
What side is the bottom if the car is sitting flat?
__________________
Kyle Predmore
FB AE Fanboy/Insta @ae_fanboy
Sticky Kicks RC\Prolevel RC\MIP\Schelle
Logi Maker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2017, 02:31 PM   #5222
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 75
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jabroni racing View Post
why would you have the shaft in there with no spider gears on it???? Guess im lost
To prevent the shaft rotating with the gears
2hundy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2017, 03:47 PM   #5223
Tech Adept
 
Azzkikin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 178
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2hundy View Post
I fully understand the point you're making but a shaft without gears can float up and down in the diff making contact with the out drive gears. The are no protrusions in the diff lid to hold the shafts in place.
Ah, very true. But if you put the free shaft in first, than the shaft with the gears. No shaft can slide up to the gears to rub.
Azzkikin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2017, 05:40 PM   #5224
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 78
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

Is everyone cutting their axles down when running the offset bearings, 67mm axle shaft and 5mm hubs? Or do I just run it with the extra threads sticking out?
Thank you
sstretch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2017, 08:40 AM   #5225
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 483
Default

I found out the specs about my motor in my B6D.
Its a 4600kv sensorless castle which translates to 6.5 Sensored.
That cant be right it feels like a powered up 10.5.
The 5700kv which is the next step above that I may go to eventually is a 5.5 sensored.
6900kv and 7700kv ill skip they are onroad motors only, id never even try those.
__________________
Associated B6 "Dirt Version" latemodel, Team Losi Racing 22T 2.0 Bomber Truck.
Team Losi Racing 22 2.0 2wd Short Course Truck,Duratrax 835e Brushless 8th scale Buggy,
Stock Slash, B4.1 latemodel(retired), T4.2 Factory Team BOMBER CAR
Castle Creations( Since April 2016)
bmag5000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2017, 09:21 AM   #5226
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 75
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Azzkikin View Post
Ah, very true. But if you put the free shaft in first, than the shaft with the gears. No shaft can slide up to the gears to rub.
Good observation, I've done this and the notches are cut shallow enough to clear the sun gear.

Worth noting that one notch is cut deeper to allow the insertion of the out drive pin, I avoided this one.
2hundy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2017, 09:26 AM   #5227
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 75
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmag5000 View Post
I found out the specs about my motor in my B6D.
Its a 4600kv sensorless castle which translates to 6.5 Sensored.
That cant be right it feels like a powered up 10.5.
The 5700kv which is the next step above that I may go to eventually is a 5.5 sensored.
6900kv and 7700kv ill skip they are onroad motors only, id never even try those.
4600kv is the lower end of 7.5 territory. Do your lap times a favour and upgrade to a sensored system but I can't imagine a 5.5 being remotely controllable.

A decent 7.5 or even a 10.5 depending on track size is what I'd go for.
2hundy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2017, 09:49 AM   #5228
Tech Adept
 
5tone's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: france
Posts: 137
Default shock spacers effect

I know more spacers in shocks reduce droop
but what's exactly the effect on the car ?

I'm running on high bite carpet tracks , I see that cav's setup is 2mm in the front and nothing in the rear (what im ridding actually);
but i also see other eos riders setting 0 front and rear...
if someone know the droop effects... you're welcome
5tone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2017, 10:02 AM   #5229
Tech Champion
 
Davidka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 9,877
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5tone View Post
I know more spacers in shocks reduce droop
but what's exactly the effect on the car ?

I'm running on high bite carpet tracks , I see that cav's setup is 2mm in the front and nothing in the rear (what im ridding actually);
but i also see other eos riders setting 0 front and rear...
if someone know the droop effects... you're welcome
Reducing droop reduces weight transfer resulting in:
- less chassis roll & less traction rolling
- less chassis pitch on throttle = more on power steering (front)
- less chassis pitch on brake, reducing oversteer / rotation @ turn initiation (rear)
- less travel for jump landing (obviously)

There's more nuance than that but those are the big ones I think of when considering making a change.
Davidka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2017, 01:10 PM   #5230
Tech Adept
 
5tone's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: france
Posts: 137
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
Reducing droop reduces weight transfer resulting in:
- less chassis roll & less traction rolling
- less chassis pitch on throttle = more on power steering (front)
- less chassis pitch on brake, reducing oversteer / rotation @ turn initiation (rear)
- less travel for jump landing (obviously)

There's more nuance than that but those are the big ones I think of when considering making a change.
Thank's for your help Davidka
I'll try it on my next race
5tone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2017, 02:47 PM   #5231
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 483
Default

I'm running my B6D in a more serious race at Highside in Evansville Indiana.
Its called the Pro Mod Nationals on Febuary 11th. Its basically our Chili Bowl which has happened already.
I plan on attending. They got Stock Slash, Open Wheel Mod Short Course, Sprint Car, and 1/10 Latemodel.

I'm running Latemodel.
__________________
Associated B6 "Dirt Version" latemodel, Team Losi Racing 22T 2.0 Bomber Truck.
Team Losi Racing 22 2.0 2wd Short Course Truck,Duratrax 835e Brushless 8th scale Buggy,
Stock Slash, B4.1 latemodel(retired), T4.2 Factory Team BOMBER CAR
Castle Creations( Since April 2016)
bmag5000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2017, 07:21 AM   #5232
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 483
Default

What kinda body choices do you guys use for this car? Is the included body good enough?
__________________
Associated B6 "Dirt Version" latemodel, Team Losi Racing 22T 2.0 Bomber Truck.
Team Losi Racing 22 2.0 2wd Short Course Truck,Duratrax 835e Brushless 8th scale Buggy,
Stock Slash, B4.1 latemodel(retired), T4.2 Factory Team BOMBER CAR
Castle Creations( Since April 2016)
bmag5000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2017, 07:36 AM   #5233
Tech Champion
 
Jmuck69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA.
Posts: 5,061
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmag5000 View Post
What kinda body choices do you guys use for this car? Is the included body good enough?
Either the stock body or JC S2. The stock body is really nice looking.
__________________
B6D | B64D

Schelle Racing Concepts - www.schelleracing.com
Amain Hobbies - www.amain.com
Jmuck69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2017, 09:02 AM   #5234
Tech Legend
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 29,441
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default

hey guys, looking at some of the setups out there for carpet I noticed one in particular that stood out to me that is running a 1.8 x 2 hole rear piston setup. Has anyone tried this and what have you noticed versus the 1.7 x 2 hole setup?

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...rsaw201611820/
__________________
Member - Red River Radio/Control Car Club
< HB Racing D413 | Tekno EB48SL / SCT410.3 | Tekno EB410 | Yokomo YZ-2 DTM x 2 | LC Racing EMB-1 Buggies and Truggies >
Cain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2017, 08:46 AM   #5235
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 37
Default

2x1.8 flat lands better for carpet racing
AE_Stig is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:10 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net