649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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12-23-2016, 05:43 AM
#4891
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Rear camber link mount upper hub inserts breaking
I keep crushing in and breaking the rear camber link mount on the upper side of the rear hub.
It's that weak plastic insert that goes on the rear side of the blue aluminum five hole.
It's gotten better since I added larger washers on both sides.. but the tell tale sign is suddenly my rear camber is off.. I look and that plastic insert waffle looking thing is crushing in. Every time.. and you cannot get inserts w o buying hubs.. this is madening for me. Am I missing something??
It's that weak plastic insert that goes on the rear side of the blue aluminum five hole.
It's gotten better since I added larger washers on both sides.. but the tell tale sign is suddenly my rear camber is off.. I look and that plastic insert waffle looking thing is crushing in. Every time.. and you cannot get inserts w o buying hubs.. this is madening for me. Am I missing something??
12-23-2016, 06:04 AM
#4892
I keep crushing in and breaking the rear camber link mount on the upper side of the rear hub.
It's that weak plastic insert that goes on the rear side of the blue aluminum five hole.
It's gotten better since I added larger washers on both sides.. but the tell tale sign is suddenly my rear camber is off.. I look and that plastic insert waffle looking thing is crushing in. Every time.. and you cannot get inserts w o buying hubs.. this is madening for me. Am I missing something??
It's that weak plastic insert that goes on the rear side of the blue aluminum five hole.
It's gotten better since I added larger washers on both sides.. but the tell tale sign is suddenly my rear camber is off.. I look and that plastic insert waffle looking thing is crushing in. Every time.. and you cannot get inserts w o buying hubs.. this is madening for me. Am I missing something??
12-23-2016, 06:32 AM
#4893
Tech Regular
Hey guys, need some bearing help. I installed some Avid Ceramic bearings in the B6, but I noticed the front wheeels didn't spin very much. Took it apart, added some Parma bearing oil to the bearings, and it seemed to be a little better. But the kit bearings seem to be a lot more free. The wheel spins longer with them. Avid tells me the bearings are packed with grease and ready to go, but I suspect I should be cleaning them and oiling them. What do y'all do for new bearings?
12-23-2016, 06:43 AM
#4894
I believe the kit bearings are oiled not greased, that is why they will spin more freely than the greased ones you got from Avid.
Greased has more resistance but requires less maintenance, since it stays inside the bearing longer.
You can clean the grease out and oil them but you will have to take them out and re oil them more often.
Greased has more resistance but requires less maintenance, since it stays inside the bearing longer.
You can clean the grease out and oil them but you will have to take them out and re oil them more often.
12-23-2016, 07:18 AM
#4895
Hey guys, need some bearing help. I installed some Avid Ceramic bearings in the B6, but I noticed the front wheeels didn't spin very much. Took it apart, added some Parma bearing oil to the bearings, and it seemed to be a little better. But the kit bearings seem to be a lot more free. The wheel spins longer with them. Avid tells me the bearings are packed with grease and ready to go, but I suspect I should be cleaning them and oiling them. What do y'all do for new bearings?
http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...ng-Set-SCH2208
12-23-2016, 07:53 AM
#4896
The V3 and the V3.1 from what I recall are also easier to connect the programmer card as on the V2.1 you need to pull the lead from the receiver if I recall correctly. V3 and V3.1 have a port you don't need to do that with. I think that was the main reason I picked up a regular V3 when it came up for sale cheap over the V2.1 I had here.
12-23-2016, 03:32 PM
#4897
I keep crushing in and breaking the rear camber link mount on the upper side of the rear hub.
It's that weak plastic insert that goes on the rear side of the blue aluminum five hole.
It's gotten better since I added larger washers on both sides.. but the tell tale sign is suddenly my rear camber is off.. I look and that plastic insert waffle looking thing is crushing in. Every time.. and you cannot get inserts w o buying hubs.. this is madening for me. Am I missing something??
It's that weak plastic insert that goes on the rear side of the blue aluminum five hole.
It's gotten better since I added larger washers on both sides.. but the tell tale sign is suddenly my rear camber is off.. I look and that plastic insert waffle looking thing is crushing in. Every time.. and you cannot get inserts w o buying hubs.. this is madening for me. Am I missing something??
Last edited by timannnn6; 12-23-2016 at 04:35 PM.
12-24-2016, 05:56 AM
#4898
Just run them. The grease will not slow down your car. If you want really smooth spinning bearings, look at Schelle. They use a special thin grease that last longer than oil but spins more than Avid grease.
http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...ng-Set-SCH2208
http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...ng-Set-SCH2208
I keep crushing in and breaking the rear camber link mount on the upper side of the rear hub.
It's that weak plastic insert that goes on the rear side of the blue aluminum five hole.
It's gotten better since I added larger washers on both sides.. but the tell tale sign is suddenly my rear camber is off.. I look and that plastic insert waffle looking thing is crushing in. Every time.. and you cannot get inserts w o buying hubs.. this is madening for me. Am I missing something??
It's that weak plastic insert that goes on the rear side of the blue aluminum five hole.
It's gotten better since I added larger washers on both sides.. but the tell tale sign is suddenly my rear camber is off.. I look and that plastic insert waffle looking thing is crushing in. Every time.. and you cannot get inserts w o buying hubs.. this is madening for me. Am I missing something??
I switched to the older b5 inserts they have less holes and last longer. Also there's a company that makes carbon fiber inserts the company name is BBR carbon products. If u need a link let me know
Last edited by eper; 12-24-2016 at 06:29 AM.
12-24-2016, 11:19 AM
#4900
Tech Regular
Showing off my B6D, T4.2 Bomber and Stock Slash.
12-24-2016, 01:31 PM
#4902
Question regarding changes in axle height with the pills and/or hub spacers....
What does the change up or down do and when would one use each setting?
What does the change up or down do and when would one use each setting?
12-25-2016, 12:33 AM
#4903
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Solved the upper camber link insert issue (rear) .. too bad I didn't read the tread about using two aluminum inserts instead of a single plastic one. ahh well.
my fix? fill the void between the metal and plastic rear upper camber inserts with epoxy. That locked the inserts and washers in place! problem is i'll never adjust that again! i'll get the Schelle aluminum hubs next time.
Until then the easy fix for anyone else reading this is two aluminum inserts - skip that plastic one. if you don't change it, suddenly your camber will begin to float and you wont realize why the car isn't handling... until it finally fractures the plastic insert.
my fix? fill the void between the metal and plastic rear upper camber inserts with epoxy. That locked the inserts and washers in place! problem is i'll never adjust that again! i'll get the Schelle aluminum hubs next time.
Until then the easy fix for anyone else reading this is two aluminum inserts - skip that plastic one. if you don't change it, suddenly your camber will begin to float and you wont realize why the car isn't handling... until it finally fractures the plastic insert.
12-25-2016, 03:52 AM
#4904
Solved the upper camber link insert issue (rear) .. too bad I didn't read the tread about using two aluminum inserts instead of a single plastic one. ahh well.
my fix? fill the void between the metal and plastic rear upper camber inserts with epoxy. That locked the inserts and washers in place! problem is i'll never adjust that again! i'll get the Schelle aluminum hubs next time.
Until then the easy fix for anyone else reading this is two aluminum inserts - skip that plastic one. if you don't change it, suddenly your camber will begin to float and you wont realize why the car isn't handling... until it finally fractures the plastic insert.
my fix? fill the void between the metal and plastic rear upper camber inserts with epoxy. That locked the inserts and washers in place! problem is i'll never adjust that again! i'll get the Schelle aluminum hubs next time.
Until then the easy fix for anyone else reading this is two aluminum inserts - skip that plastic one. if you don't change it, suddenly your camber will begin to float and you wont realize why the car isn't handling... until it finally fractures the plastic insert.
12-25-2016, 06:02 AM
#4905
My apologies guys I spoke to the guys at bbr and they never put that part into major production as most guys ran the aluminum hubs. I for one like the plastic hubs I feel they give a little more grip and at my tracks I need that grip. U could message them and ask for a set and they may have some laying around they will send u. Again my opologies. Here's the FB link https://www.facebook.com/BBRCarbonProducts/