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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-22-2016, 05:26 PM   #4876
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I'm not either... lol

Looks like I'll be picking up some plastic servo horns... unless there's other options some of y'all have used...
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Old 12-22-2016, 07:46 PM   #4878
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If I'm running stock on a medium size indoor track 17.5. What spur and pinion do I need to be fast
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Old 12-22-2016, 08:46 PM   #4879
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If I'm running stock on a medium size indoor track 17.5. What spur and pinion do I need to be fast
I picked up a 72/33 based on some of the pro setup sheets on Petit. I think the manual says 69/31 or something to that affect.
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Old 12-22-2016, 08:56 PM   #4880
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Old 12-22-2016, 09:26 PM   #4881
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it depends on the motor.
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Old 12-22-2016, 10:05 PM   #4882
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it depends on the motor.
And the track lay out. But 69/31 is a good starting point.

Example - last track lay out, 69/32 worked great. New lay out had a tighter infield, 69/30 worked better. Same lay out, new gen motor 69/28 works great.
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Old 12-22-2016, 11:40 PM   #4883
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Good advice on gearing. Don't think gearing is one of those things that once you figure out you're done. There's a range, just like other adjustments.
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Old 12-23-2016, 01:25 AM   #4884
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Originally Posted by Thrifty View Post
I'm not either... lol

Looks like I'll be picking up some plastic servo horns... unless there's other options some of y'all have used...
well it's cheaper to strip your servo horn than your servo gears
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Old 12-23-2016, 02:24 AM   #4885
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I'm running 18/84 with a 4600kv. 84 is as big as a spur you can put on the B6D.
I tried 87 its too large.
Too large meaning it rubs on the chassis and you cant use the gear cover with a 87.
I think 87 is for Stadium Trucks and Short course trucks anyway.
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Old 12-23-2016, 04:43 AM   #4886
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As for having a true wonder ESC for mod and stock, etc. It may be your best served spending alittle more and getting something that fits your needs. Or, if you are not too concerned with having the latest, if they still have some of those hobbywing V2.1s floating around those are pretty powerful escs for a cheap price new these days.
I have no problem with an older model. Especially since i can get one for $80. Although, I have been having trouble finding a good comparison. between the 2.1 and 3.1. i just want to do my research to determine if it is worth getting the newer version.

Again to clarify i want to run my B6D stock and mod.
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Old 12-23-2016, 04:48 AM   #4887
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Originally Posted by caioz1jp View Post
I have no problem with an older model. Especially since i can get one for $80. Although, I have been having trouble finding a good comparison. between the 2.1 and 3.1. i just want to do my research to determine if it is worth getting the newer version.

Again to clarify i want to run my B6D stock and mod.
2.1 = plastic case and outboard switch, 3.1 = aluminum case and inboard switch
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Old 12-23-2016, 04:54 AM   #4888
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Originally Posted by caioz1jp View Post
I have no problem with an older model. Especially since i can get one for $80. Although, I have been having trouble finding a good comparison. between the 2.1 and 3.1. i just want to do my research to determine if it is worth getting the newer version.

Again to clarify i want to run my B6D stock and mod.
the 3.1 has 2 stage boost and braking options too
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Old 12-23-2016, 04:57 AM   #4889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caioz1jp View Post
I have no problem with an older model. Especially since i can get one for $80. Although, I have been having trouble finding a good comparison. between the 2.1 and 3.1. i just want to do my research to determine if it is worth getting the newer version.

Again to clarify i want to run my B6D stock and mod.
With the 510r out now there are a lot of 410r's for sale. It's a great speed control for stock or mod.
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Old 12-23-2016, 05:36 AM   #4890
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well it's cheaper to strip your servo horn than your servo gears
The nylon steering gear is plenty strong to strip a small buggy servo.

The solution would be add a saver like a 1/8 buggy but there is no package space and the low wheel loads from a light 1/10 buggy don't warrant it. If u smack it enough times your servo will be toast.. aluminum just a bit faster.
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