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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-20-2016, 06:48 AM   #4846
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Default Does a Spektrum S6240 fit in a B6D

Yes that is what I am running in my car.
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Old 12-20-2016, 07:58 AM   #4847
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Yes that is what I am running in my car.
Thank you for the reply!!
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Old 12-20-2016, 02:11 PM   #4848
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Yes that is what I am running in my car.
Did you use the spacers on the servo mounts? I'm having a hard time getting the wires to "fold" between the servo and mount.
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Old 12-20-2016, 02:44 PM   #4849
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Originally Posted by MrLean View Post
Did you use the spacers on the servo mounts? I'm having a hard time getting the wires to "fold" between the servo and mount.
Cut away the rubber grommet except the part that pinches in the case. This would allow you to fold the wires.
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Old 12-20-2016, 09:52 PM   #4850
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Quick dumb question. I installed my diff with the screw on the opposite side of the spur gear. Does it really matter ? Just wondering if I gotta take it all apart again
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Old 12-20-2016, 09:58 PM   #4851
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Quick dumb question. I installed my diff with the screw on the opposite side of the spur gear. Does it really matter ? Just wondering if I gotta take it all apart again
Um I have ran it backwards on cars in the past and never had any issues but it would be wisest to pull it apart and flip it around. For safety's sake
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Old 12-21-2016, 06:19 AM   #4852
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I'm running a vented slipper clutch. I have it tightened all most all the way down running 7.5 mod. Feel like the nut bolt shouldn't have to be turned in so much. Should I switch to those 3 pad systems ?
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Old 12-21-2016, 06:38 AM   #4853
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Originally Posted by Rcforlife13 View Post
I'm running a vented slipper clutch. I have it tightened all most all the way down running 7.5 mod. Feel like the nut bolt shouldn't have to be turned in so much. Should I switch to those 3 pad systems ?
are your pads glazed up? I run 7.5 and use the stock slipper and the nut is flush with the end of the shaft
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Old 12-21-2016, 06:46 AM   #4854
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Originally Posted by Rcforlife13 View Post
I'm running a vented slipper clutch. I have it tightened all most all the way down running 7.5 mod. Feel like the nut bolt shouldn't have to be turned in so much. Should I switch to those 3 pad systems ?
I've noticed that it seems some slipper springs are a bit stiffer than others. I had one that you had to tighten down quite a bit t get the slipper set. I built another kit, that spring you didnt have to tighten down more than flush with the end of the top shaft (all in mod, 7.5). I think there are some out there in kits that are just a bit softer than others.
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Old 12-21-2016, 07:02 AM   #4855
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check pads as others have suggested. I would think going to a different pad setup whether it be something like the RC Shox / Mckune style pads or the avid / schelle style setup. I am using the RC Shox pads on carpet currently and really like them. Mckunes I use as well just on different brand of vehicles.
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Old 12-21-2016, 07:02 AM   #4856
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No one has tried to run the LRP Super Shorty in this car?
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Old 12-21-2016, 08:00 AM   #4857
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Who has tried running without the waterfall and the battery all the way back? Benefits/Drawbacks?
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Old 12-21-2016, 08:36 AM   #4858
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I'm running my B6D in 2017 as a Oval Latemodel Car. In 2018 ill convert it back to offroad if offroad is back again, which as it stands yeah we should have offroad.
As an oval converted latemodel I can safely say its competitive against the Custom Works Rockets cars the way I have it setup. I'm getting beat by better drivers and faster motors.
I'm only running a 4600kv sensorless castle everyone else is running sensored 10.5 motors boosted which means they are over powering my car because boosted 10.5 is a 7.5.
On the lap time sheets they only beat me by 2 laps, which isn't half bad considering I'm running a car not suitable for oval racing but I managed to pull it off.
One of my first modification was putting NITRO FUEL tubing in my shocks to lower the car. Custom fitted SC10 body mounts that I got to fit by dremeling some of the plastic off.
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Last edited by bmag5000; 12-21-2016 at 08:48 AM.
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Old 12-21-2016, 08:36 AM   #4859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxnickj View Post
Who has tried running without the waterfall and the battery all the way back? Benefits/Drawbacks?
Hey Nick,
I just picked up the schelle battery hold down with the turnbuckle to eliminate the waterfall.

The intended benefit is so you can move the battery back for more traction. I'll probably have it up at Bumps & Jumps next week sometime for practice.

http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...-Strap-SCH1282

http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...le-Set-SCH1278
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Old 12-21-2016, 12:53 PM   #4860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmag5000 View Post
I'm running my B6D in 2017 as a Oval Latemodel Car. In 2018 ill convert it back to offroad if offroad is back again, which as it stands yeah we should have offroad.
As an oval converted latemodel I can safely say its competitive against the Custom Works Rockets cars the way I have it setup. I'm getting beat by better drivers and faster motors.
I'm only running a 4600kv sensorless castle everyone else is running sensored 10.5 motors boosted which means they are over powering my car because boosted 10.5 is a 7.5.
On the lap time sheets they only beat me by 2 laps, which isn't half bad considering I'm running a car not suitable for oval racing but I managed to pull it off.
One of my first modification was putting NITRO FUEL tubing in my shocks to lower the car. Custom fitted SC10 body mounts that I got to fit by dremeling some of the plastic off.
.............

http://www.rctech.net/forum/oval-larger-scales-more-5/

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