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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-15-2016, 08:32 AM   #4771
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Originally Posted by mxnickj View Post
Doesn't increasing anti-squat usually mean less grip though?
Increases forward grip or on power grip , less increases side grip into a corner or off power.
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Old 12-15-2016, 08:54 AM   #4772
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Originally Posted by SuMMa View Post
Good evening everyone,

Getting back into the game and just picked up a B6d. Would like to check in the the knowledgeable techs on here to get some advice.

Thanks for everyones time
While i run tekin rs gen2 esc, fantom motor, orion battery, you can't go wrong will all reedy for a AE car... if the reedy servo is too expensive, the Savox 1258TG works nicely - especially with the losi 22 "bent" servo arm.
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Old 12-15-2016, 11:17 AM   #4773
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Any tips for gearing a Killshot 10.5 for High Bite Clay? I just put one in my car last night and have it geared at 25/78 @ 40* can timing (Factory) and to be honest my 13.5 Certified Plus was better.

I am thinking about dropping down to a 75/25-26 and see what it does
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Old 12-15-2016, 11:35 AM   #4774
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
Increases forward grip or on power grip , less increases side grip into a corner or off power.
Ok so more anti squat = more forward grip and less side grip?
less anti squat = less forward grip and more side grip?
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Old 12-15-2016, 11:55 AM   #4775
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Originally Posted by mxnickj View Post
Ok so more anti squat = more forward grip and less side grip?
less anti squat = less forward grip and more side grip?
Correct!

For Bumpy Tracks you will want to run less anti squat also.
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Old 12-15-2016, 11:55 AM   #4776
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Correct!

For Bumpy Tracks you will want to run less anti squat also.
Rhett!!!
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:44 PM   #4777
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
some are running BMI Racing rear hub inserts. Rivkin eluded to new rear aluminum hubs AE is working on that will have this feature built-in. moves axles out 1.5mm
I have seen this mod used by another AE driver recently. Hopefully it will include the other parts needed, and be available soon.
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:59 PM   #4778
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Default B6 to B6d

I bought a B6 for Christmas for myself (Merry Christmas to me!). I am wondering if I should have bought the B6d now though. I read the intro post and I am just confused by what I would need to convert it to a B6d with laydown. Since the B6 comes with the laydown already (?), would I just need to buy the ball diff, and flat arms? Is the tower different? Is it possible to just change the arms to flat and not change the tower? Anything else I am missing?

91706 Gear Box (3-gear)
91713 motor plate (3 gear)
91707 Gear Box (4 gear)
91714 motor plate (4 gear)
91709 Waterfall
91717 Idler gear
91711 Gear cover (4 gear)
91712 Gear cover (3 gear)
91739 Body
91663 Gull wing tower
91673 Gull wing arms
91702 Ball diff
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Old 12-15-2016, 06:12 PM   #4779
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
how nice of reedy to develop a new esc that can't use the old programming box (from the first failed esc). i know there's associated nut fleas that will run reedy just because it's AE, but at this point, i'd have a real hard time dropping my money on reedy electronics (other than maybe motors).
After running another brand for 9 years I now run reedy mod motors and am very happy with them. For ESC's I'm using three different brands at the moment but like my xr10 pro the best.
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Old 12-15-2016, 06:17 PM   #4780
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy View Post
Mine must be defective then because I haven't broken it yet. Come to think of it, all the ones at my local track must be defective because I haven't seen any of theirs break either. I think I am gonna call AE tomorrow and complain that the part "they designed to break" has not broken yet on my car and I want them to ship me some pre-broken ones because "some guy on RCTech" told me they are supposed to break.
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Old 12-15-2016, 06:21 PM   #4781
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
Does anybody know how the offsets of the Schumacher wheels compare to the B5/B6 wheels? Looking at Cav's setup from the EOS race he is running the 6mm hex's, is that to correct for different offset wheels or because he is running a slightly wider pivot?

Also is this a pretty good starting setup for carpet? I have heard the Yatabe springs are better but I was just going to copy this setup to start with until I spend more money on stuff and know I like racing on carpet and start going there more. Thanks.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...gring20160429/
Schumacher, and AE wheels are the same offset. I'm running my old Schumacher wheels on my AE cars now.
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Old 12-15-2016, 06:47 PM   #4782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denon View Post
I bought a B6 for Christmas for myself (Merry Christmas to me!). I am wondering if I should have bought the B6d now though. I read the intro post and I am just confused by what I would need to convert it to a B6d with laydown. Since the B6 comes with the laydown already (?), would I just need to buy the ball diff, and flat arms? Is the tower different? Is it possible to just change the arms to flat and not change the tower? Anything else I am missing?

91706 Gear Box (3-gear)
91713 motor plate (3 gear)
91707 Gear Box (4 gear)
91714 motor plate (4 gear)
91709 Waterfall
91717 Idler gear
91711 Gear cover (4 gear)
91712 Gear cover (3 gear)
91739 Body
91663 Gull wing tower
91673 Gull wing arms
91702 Ball diff
I would just start with the ball diff, unless the top ten guys at your track run 3 gear stand up.
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Old 12-15-2016, 10:03 PM   #4783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denon View Post
I bought a B6 for Christmas for myself (Merry Christmas to me!). I am wondering if I should have bought the B6d now though. I read the intro post and I am just confused by what I would need to convert it to a B6d with laydown. Since the B6 comes with the laydown already (?), would I just need to buy the ball diff, and flat arms? Is the tower different? Is it possible to just change the arms to flat and not change the tower? Anything else I am missing?

91706 Gear Box (3-gear)
91713 motor plate (3 gear)
91707 Gear Box (4 gear)
91714 motor plate (4 gear)
91709 Waterfall
91717 Idler gear
91711 Gear cover (4 gear)
91712 Gear cover (3 gear)
91739 Body
91663 Gull wing tower
91673 Gull wing arms
91702 Ball diff
If you bought the standard b6 buy a ball diff, keep your gull arms and tower on, and buy aluminum front pivot and 25gr C block and sway bar kit front and rear. This is if you run on a decent amount of grip clay type track
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Old 12-15-2016, 10:50 PM   #4784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denon View Post
I bought a B6 for Christmas for myself (Merry Christmas to me!). I am wondering if I should have bought the B6d now though. I read the intro post and I am just confused by what I would need to convert it to a B6d with laydown. Since the B6 comes with the laydown already (?), would I just need to buy the ball diff, and flat arms? Is the tower different? Is it possible to just change the arms to flat and not change the tower? Anything else I am missing?

91706 Gear Box (3-gear)
91713 motor plate (3 gear)
91707 Gear Box (4 gear)
91714 motor plate (4 gear)
91709 Waterfall
91717 Idler gear
91711 Gear cover (4 gear)
91712 Gear cover (3 gear)
91739 Body
91663 Gull wing tower
91673 Gull wing arms
91702 Ball diff
I run a B6 on a medium to high bite track (SCVRC) ... the only thing that I changed is the springs, pistons, and shock oil. It drives pretty easy and fast with the gear diff (5K). Jake Mayo setup.

I'm getting a B6D though for next years races at an outdoor track (Hot Rod Hobbies) near me . Locals say the stock B6D is dialed in that track.
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Old 12-16-2016, 05:46 AM   #4785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maizer View Post
I would just start with the ball diff, unless the top ten guys at your track run 3 gear stand up.
Thanks!
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