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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-13-2016, 10:04 AM   #4726
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I know someone local who runs a lot of reedy stuff so looking forward to seeing the ESC.

Personally I am curious about maclan's new one with that micro usb port on it.

http://www.maclan-racing.com/product...tion-esc-160a/



don't know if its a copy of someone else, or vice versa, etc.
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Old 12-13-2016, 12:26 PM   #4727
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
You don't adjust for chassis stiffening. It just a battery strap that eliminates the waterfall and uses a turnbuckle. Similar to the Schelle and others out there. It does allow some finer adjustment of where the pack goes but the turnbuckle is just there to brace instead of the waterfall...you adjust the turnbuckle based upon where the pack is mounted...it is not its own adjustment.
Isn't the whole purpose of removing the waterfall to create more chassis flex?
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Old 12-13-2016, 12:27 PM   #4728
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Originally Posted by Scott R View Post
slipper too tight
Or diff too loose???
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Old 12-13-2016, 12:30 PM   #4729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
I know someone local who runs a lot of reedy stuff so looking forward to seeing the ESC.

Personally I am curious about maclan's new one with that micro usb port on it.

http://www.maclan-racing.com/product...tion-esc-160a/

don't know if its a copy of someone else, or vice versa, etc.
I am curious to see how that one works as well.
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Old 12-13-2016, 12:36 PM   #4730
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLbnYJ3gJ-0

One of the features of this device is that it helps you pinpoint what motor timing you need to be (for optimum performance) ...at a specific voltage....in this case 6.0 amps.
Just curious, where did the 6amps come from??? Ive had motor guys say they dont go by that???? do you basically crank the timing until it pulls 6amps
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Old 12-13-2016, 12:50 PM   #4731
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Ito more of a reference thing. Since there isn't a load being put on motors there's no real way to synopsis the using the motolyser. People are tuning to the 6 amps because somewhere someone came up with that as the sweet spot for a particular motor. The only real benefit to tuning to a 6 amp draw is to compare kv from one motor to the next. Your best bet is to do good old fashioned testing. Don't be afraid to try different timing and gear ratios. Just keep an eye on Temps, lap times, and feel.
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Old 12-13-2016, 01:17 PM   #4732
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Originally Posted by jabroni racing View Post
Just curious, where did the 6amps come from??? Ive had motor guys say they dont go by that???? do you basically crank the timing until it pulls 6amps
I believe that 6.0 ~ 6.5 comes from the experience of the guy in the YouTube video, but I'm planning to email him about it.

Having said that, this is my logic, based on my experience, which is less than Nick's:

Pulling more current from the battery is a good thing, as long as it's converted to motion rather than heat. This is due to power (in Watts) being equal to Volts x Current; if the voltage stays the same, and the current increases, the power increases as well.

When you measure the motor performance with the analyser, you're checking the KV rise and current rise as you increase timing. What you will see is that KV increases rapidly initially, and then the rate of increase starts to reduce, while the rate of increase for current draw starts to increase. What this appears to show is that there is a point where the motor starts to convert more and more of the electrical energy into heat, rather than motion, and this is what you'd want to avoid. Experience shows that this seems to be at the 6.0 Amps ~ 6.5 Amps area, for 13.5 and 17.5 motors in particular.

I guess for mod motors, this probably would be different, but you can use the ESC timing with mod motors anyway, and they're so much more powerful too. I'd be interested to test 21.5 motors for spec racing, but I'd not done that yet.
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Old 12-13-2016, 01:43 PM   #4733
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What he said.
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Old 12-13-2016, 02:35 PM   #4734
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What are people's experience with these? I've used the old orange pucks before and was upset how much maintenance was required.
I've been using the roller pucks for several months now, I run 17.5 on turf. I have had zero maintenance for the pucks themselves, and the outdrives look brand-new. Car also seems to roll smoother.

For comparisons sake, my OEM outdrives were all chewed up after only a couple months of running.
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Old 12-13-2016, 03:56 PM   #4735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RookieRacer00 View Post
Isn't the whole purpose of removing the waterfall to create more chassis flex?
It creates more side to side flex while maintaining the front to back flex.
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Old 12-13-2016, 07:14 PM   #4736
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Originally Posted by RookieRacer00 View Post
Isn't the whole purpose of removing the waterfall to create more chassis flex?
I would say the beam stiffness is going to be a bit more due to the mounting location, torsional rigidity should be less due to it being able to twist on the turnbuckle mounts
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Old 12-14-2016, 06:01 AM   #4737
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Anybody notice that Spencer Rivkin was using a washer underneath his c-block at the JC indoor series race? Car looked super dialed in the videos.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...ivkinB6-13.jpg
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Old 12-14-2016, 06:33 AM   #4738
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Originally Posted by Maxxingout View Post
Anybody notice that Spencer Rivkin was using a washer underneath his c-block at the JC indoor series race? Car looked super dialed in the videos.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...ivkinB6-13.jpg
I noticed that on Cole Tollard's car at our local turkey race too. Forgot to ask him about it.
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Old 12-14-2016, 07:53 AM   #4739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxxingout View Post
Anybody notice that Spencer Rivkin was using a washer underneath his c-block at the JC indoor series race? Car looked super dialed in the videos.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...ivkinB6-13.jpg
Maybe to get more anti-squat?
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Old 12-14-2016, 08:15 AM   #4740
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You would need to look at the hinge pin angle to know. If it lessens the angle it is the opposite of what you said. Otherwise you are right.
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