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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 11-30-2016, 09:48 AM   #4516
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Originally Posted by hsp-sandiego View Post
Schelle b5 hubs? I have a Kit coming this weekend and am curious if the Schelle 5 series hubs i have will work.

looks pretty dialed!
They will work but you won't have axle height adjustability. The new B6 hubs from Schelle will have this feature.

http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...b-Blue-SCH1235
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Old 11-30-2016, 10:16 AM   #4517
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
They will work but you won't have axle height adjustability. The new B6 hubs from Schelle will have this feature.

http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...b-Blue-SCH1235
thanks for the quick reply.
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Old 11-30-2016, 10:57 AM   #4518
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I'm wondering if those ball stud/cups are running out of travel before the rest of the system does. It used to be that if this happened, it manifested by popping the ball cup off. Cups & ball studs are so strong these days that the failure point could've moved?
Nope, thats not it either, Ive got plenty of free travel, more than the shock will allow
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Old 11-30-2016, 01:40 PM   #4519
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I tried that too. Everything is smooth. I'm the only guy with running a B6 at the track right now, so I have no one to compare it to. I've also ripped out the rear inner camber link stud on my old B5m in the same place. The high amount of traction just puts a lot of stress on the camber links in that particular section
Which hole are you in? What "upgrades" have you put on the front end?
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Old 11-30-2016, 01:47 PM   #4520
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Scott R, has this plastic been exposed to near freezing temperatures or lower? What's the temp when you are racing?
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Old 11-30-2016, 01:58 PM   #4521
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is there a site to get different anodizes screws for the B6? seen some people on here with full purple or gold screw setups. i like the blue just wanting to see if there are other options
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Old 11-30-2016, 03:19 PM   #4522
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is there a site to get different anodizes screws for the B6? seen some people on here with full purple or gold screw setups. i like the blue just wanting to see if there are other options
http://www.fastener-express.com/
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Old 11-30-2016, 06:03 PM   #4523
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hey guys, I must just be missing it but I am not following how the setting for the caster bushings are done relative to the setup sheets as there are two "lines" pointing to the axle height box.

is it basically the +3, +2, etc basically the top bushing?
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Old 11-30-2016, 06:06 PM   #4524
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Originally Posted by Mason View Post
Which hole are you in? What "upgrades" have you put on the front end?
Middle Hole, Its not breaking at a hole, its breaking at the thin area towards the shock tower
as far as "Upgrades" I run a brass bulkhead, Aluminum Steering, and Ti front axles, nothing out of the ordinary

Quote:
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Scott R, has this plastic been exposed to near freezing temperatures or lower? What's the temp when you are racing?
I run indoors at ~70 degrees
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:20 PM   #4525
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hey guys I noticed something strange when making a change on the laydown tranny.

When I went to assemble the vehicle together again, noticed that the rear ball stud mount seems like its too short to reach the tranny right. There is about 1.5mm or so gap between it and the laydown tranny as show in step 8.

Any ideas? I also want to put some washers there but that doesn't seem right based on the manual?

using the aluminum rear D mount if that helps
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Old 11-30-2016, 07:26 PM   #4526
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
hey guys I noticed something strange when making a change on the laydown tranny.

When I went to assemble the vehicle together again, noticed that the rear ball stud mount seems like its too short to reach the tranny right. There is about 1.5mm or so gap between it and the laydown tranny as show in step 8.

Any ideas? I also want to put some washers there but that doesn't seem right based on the manual?

using the aluminum rear D mount if that helps
Is the tranny fully bolted down? the raised portion on the bottom of the diff portion of the case has to fit down into the chassis pocket. make sure it's fully seated. Also, is the bumper installed between the D mount and the chassis?
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Old 11-30-2016, 08:47 PM   #4527
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
Is the tranny fully bolted down? the raised portion on the bottom of the diff portion of the case has to fit down into the chassis pocket. make sure it's fully seated. Also, is the bumper installed between the D mount and the chassis?
lol its the bumper thanks!
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Old 12-01-2016, 07:34 AM   #4528
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Default 6 or 6d?

Hello, yes I know this is an old question, and has been covered before I am sure, picking up a kit and wondering if I should go with the laydown version b6? or standup b6d?,
out door track hard pack med. bite, mostly running 17.5 stock class, some indoor carpet possible... most likely outdoor

also is the schelle eliminator? a good route to go?
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Old 12-01-2016, 07:40 AM   #4529
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anyone running a mod motor with the box stock kit? if I wanted to run mod, what a good package of upgrades to handle the torque and abuse of mod racing?
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Old 12-01-2016, 07:41 AM   #4530
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Originally Posted by plumber007 View Post
Hello, yes I know this is an old question, and has been covered before I am sure, picking up a kit and wondering if I should go with the laydown version b6? or standup b6d?,
out door track hard pack med. bite, mostly running 17.5 stock class, some indoor carpet possible... most likely outdoor

also is the schelle eliminator? a good route to go?
Probably best to go with the D and spend the $27 on the laydown as a tuning option.
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