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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 11-28-2016, 11:49 PM   #4486
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Default Schelle +1

It appears that they are not in between the ae standard and +1 akerman plates but more like a +2 as it shifted the hole even further over towards the rack. I had suspected there was a difference when I took the aluminum ae +1 plates off to put the carbon Schelle +1 plates on because you know it's carbon and looks cool and after installing them I noticed my toe was toed in some. That was about a week ago and chatter in the pits had brought that up and today as I was prepping my car I removed them and compared all 3 sets I have (ae standard, ae +1 and Schelle +1) by sliding the screws through the holes to align them up on top of each other is when it became clear there was a difference. As I am typing this I realized I have some of the standard Schelle akerman arms but did not compare those but I imagine they're the same as the ae standard akerman but will look tomorrow.

I suppose these could add to the tuning options out there and in no way am I trying to say anything bad about them I imagine they have their advantages.
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Old 11-29-2016, 03:52 AM   #4487
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Thank's for your returns on the steering arms, it helps.

Do you try shiming the steering rack ?
Do you feel a difference with an extend steering arm ?
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Old 11-29-2016, 06:55 AM   #4488
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Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
If I get this right 91548 Alum. rear hubs from my sc5m should fit to my B6D, correct? (Worth switching?)

These the right ones for my B6D: ??
VRP B6 7075 CNC Rear Shock Tower (Black) - Option Tower 1
VRP B6 7075 CNC Front 'Option' Shock Tower (Black) - Flat Arms
Yes, those towers are what you need. Being the option towers, they eliminate the outside 3rd hole while adding a middle hole between the inside and middle original holes.
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Old 11-29-2016, 08:20 AM   #4489
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Originally Posted by 5tone View Post
Thank's for your returns on the steering arms, it helps.

Do you try shiming the steering rack ?
Do you feel a difference with an extend steering arm ?
I don't have enough time with running the car to tell a difference between the arms, I originally built the car with the ae +1 steering akerman and have only about 5-6 race days on the car.
I run 1mm behind the steering rack ball stud if that's what you're referring to.
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Old 11-29-2016, 09:32 AM   #4490
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does anyone know if the composite steering arms will fit an aluminum steering block? Or do I need to purchase aluminum steering arms?
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Old 11-29-2016, 09:58 AM   #4491
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Originally Posted by FreeBandz View Post
does anyone know if the composite steering arms will fit an aluminum steering block? Or do I need to purchase aluminum steering arms?
The steering parts are interchangeable..You can use any combination of Aluminum / Plastic together
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Old 11-29-2016, 10:14 AM   #4492
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
The steering parts are interchangeable..You can use any combination of Aluminum / Plastic together
Thanks!

Anyone running mixed composite/aluminum steering setups? Advantages? or should I just look to go full aluminum once more parts come out? I was just worried that the plastic steering arms may develop slop...
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Old 11-29-2016, 10:17 AM   #4493
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Originally Posted by FreeBandz View Post
Thanks!

Anyone running mixed composite/aluminum steering setups? Advantages? or should I just look to go full aluminum once more parts come out? I was just worried that the plastic steering arms may develop slop...
I initially built the car with all the aluminum steering goodies. Felt like the front end had too much weight so I went to the all plastic setup (along with a LP servo). I now am running the plastic arms with aluminum ackerman link
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Old 11-29-2016, 10:24 AM   #4494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eli View Post
It appears that they are not in between the ae standard and +1 akerman plates but more like a +2 as it shifted the hole even further over towards the rack. I had suspected there was a difference when I took the aluminum ae +1 plates off to put the carbon Schelle +1 plates on because you know it's carbon and looks cool and after installing them I noticed my toe was toed in some. That was about a week ago and chatter in the pits had brought that up and today as I was prepping my car I removed them and compared all 3 sets I have (ae standard, ae +1 and Schelle +1) by sliding the screws through the holes to align them up on top of each other is when it became clear there was a difference. As I am typing this I realized I have some of the standard Schelle akerman arms but did not compare those but I imagine they're the same as the ae standard akerman but will look tomorrow.

I suppose these could add to the tuning options out there and in no way am I trying to say anything bad about them I imagine they have their advantages.
I developed the type 1 steering arms separately from Associated, so the Schelle parts are not a duplicate of the Associated +1. The intent of both parts is the same, to give more Ackermann and help the front end corner faster.

Sorry if there is any confusion in the naming strategy, at the time we didn't know the AE parts were coming or what their name was. If I can get my hands on some AE +1 I will test them and let everyone know if there is much difference on the track.

The Schelle std B6 carbon steering arms are an exact duplicate of the kit parts. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-29-2016, 10:24 AM   #4495
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
I initially built the car with all the aluminum steering goodies. Felt like the front end had too much weight so I went to the all plastic setup (along with a LP servo). I now am running the plastic arms with aluminum ackerman link
hmm, very interesting...so far my car is bone stock--I just ordered a Savox 1258TG servo and an Exotek Aluminum Servo Horn--don't know how heavy the front end will be with the full sized servo vs low pro, but I think I'll just wait until Schelle puts out some aluminum arms because I wanted the Schelle aluminum steering block as well...till then Ill just keep the car stock...
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Old 11-29-2016, 10:26 AM   #4496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I developed the type 1 steering arms separately from Associated, so the Schelle parts are not a duplicate of the Associated +1. The intent of both parts is the same, to give more Ackermann and help the front end corner faster.

Sorry if there is any confusion in the naming strategy, at the time we didn't know the AE parts were coming or what their name was. If I can get my hands on some AE +1 I will test them and let everyone know if there is much difference on the track.

The Schelle std B6 carbon steering arms are an exact duplicate of the kit parts. Hope this helps.
are aluminum arms out yet? I didn't see them on the website or on any online shops...
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Old 11-29-2016, 10:33 AM   #4497
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Originally Posted by FreeBandz View Post
are aluminum arms out yet? I didn't see them on the website or on any online shops...
The arms that Kurt is referring to are AE part numbers 91679 & 91680. They bolt to the steering block that is attached to the caster block.
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Old 11-29-2016, 10:38 AM   #4498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I developed the type 1 steering arms separately from Associated, so the Schelle parts are not a duplicate of the Associated +1. The intent of both parts is the same, to give more Ackermann and help the front end corner faster.

Sorry if there is any confusion in the naming strategy, at the time we didn't know the AE parts were coming or what their name was. If I can get my hands on some AE +1 I will test them and let everyone know if there is much difference on the track.

The Schelle std B6 carbon steering arms are an exact duplicate of the kit parts. Hope this helps.
Thanks for chiming in Kurt that makes complete sense. I think it worked out in a good way seeing how there are more options now for akerman settings.
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Old 11-29-2016, 11:42 AM   #4499
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
The arms that Kurt is referring to are AE part numbers 91679 & 91680. They bolt to the steering block that is attached to the caster block.
my apologies I am a PURE newbie who is just really getting addicted to this...I meant the aluminum steering bellcranks! Is Schelle going to make aluminum bellcranks?

Also, would it be normal to just forgo the slipper and go directly to a lockout for 17.5 stock as a new racer? Is the lockout for stock racing essential?
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Old 11-29-2016, 03:30 PM   #4500
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Originally Posted by FreeBandz View Post
Is the lockout for stock racing essential?
No. But if you have regular slipper and lockout selection, it would be a good tuning option. Especially if u race in a track that has inconsistent traction.
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