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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 11-26-2016, 08:38 AM   #4456
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Thank you guys all for your input it really does help. I got a B6 and not the B6d now I wish I got a B6d. I'll be running it at OCRC mainly. I know people are running both ball diff and gear diff I guess I'll run both and decided what one works best for me. And I know I don't NEED anything just been hearing a lot of hoopla about getting a B6d and getting a lay down for it that works best for clay. But doesn't a B6 already have a lay down? So in theory all I need is flat arms different back shocks. And then just trial and error from there? Already got Green and Grey shocks that was recommended for this specific track.
The gullwing arms work, I initially built mine with them and have recently put the flat arms on, not sure what I like best to be honest. I run at SDRC just south of you and have had my 2 best qualifiers with the gull wing arms but the track was very good that day as well (18/5:20 followed up by an 18/5:15). The things mentioned I would say are recommended like the ball diff but the car will still go around the track with the gear diff. OCRC has a huge triple right now and you may benefit from the tall tower and 31mm shock bodies but I would try it first with the stock tower and shock bodies before just dropping lots of money into it.
Hope you enjoy it I am enjoying mine a lot!
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Old 11-26-2016, 08:59 AM   #4457
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The gullwing arms work, I initially built mine with them and have recently put the flat arms on, not sure what I like best to be honest. I run at SDRC just south of you and have had my 2 best qualifiers with the gull wing arms but the track was very good that day as well (18/5:20 followed up by an 18/5:15). The things mentioned I would say are recommended like the ball diff but the car will still go around the track with the gear diff. OCRC has a huge triple right now and you may benefit from the tall tower and 31mm shock bodies but I would try it first with the stock tower and shock bodies before just dropping lots of money into it.
Hope you enjoy it I am enjoying mine a lot!

would you happen to have a part number for the shocks and ball diff?

I'll be going down to SDRC someday soon San Diego is my home town. But living in Huntington Beach OCRC is just down the street.

I'll just build and once I hit the track I'll find out what works best for me. Haven't build a kit in years having fun building this B6 so far.
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Old 11-26-2016, 10:34 AM   #4458
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Ocrc's staff is very helpful. Jake and Nick are great guys and will help you out. Plus there's a huge following of b6'shit out there. If you go on petit rc, Kurt Wenger has some really good starting set ups for ocrc and sdrc.
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Old 11-26-2016, 10:56 AM   #4459
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Standard servo or low profile/shorty servo?

How tough are the stock composite rear hubs? I was just looking at the aluminum rear hubs and was wondering if they were worth it...also, will the aluminum steering rack still work with the stock composite steering arms or do you need to replace with aluminum steering arms as well to ensure everything is smooth and slop free?
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Old 11-26-2016, 10:59 AM   #4460
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Ocrc's staff is very helpful. Jake and Nick are great guys and will help you out. Plus there's a huge following of b6'shit out there. If you go on petit rc, Kurt Wenger has some really good starting set ups for ocrc and sdrc.

Thank you and I did a little research on petit RC so much good stuff on there very helpful.
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Old 11-26-2016, 12:08 PM   #4461
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Ball diff has been working for me. Of course I'm racing it on high bite clay dirt oval.
I may be the only guy that converted his B6D to a latemodel everyone else is Murffdog,
or Custom Works. Of course the early custom works cars were 90% associated parts.
This B6D is very tough ive gotten in some wreaks with other drivers and haven't broke nothing. Not a thing.
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Old 11-26-2016, 10:45 PM   #4462
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Ball diff, tall rear tower with 31mm rear shock bodies. That's pretty much it for things you need everything else is optional.
This is a very subjective question. If you are on medium to high grip dirt or clay the B6 is excellent out of the box and the long rear shock bodies/long tower are unnecessary unless the track is crazy bumpy. Even on medium grip the B6 is faster than the B6D but its a lot harder to drive. If traction is inconsistent the B6D is the way to go. When traction drops and your track gets beat up and rough the tall tower and B5 rear shocks really shine. The gear diff is probably best when traction is high. If traction isn't really good a ball diff is always easier. Although I always tend to buy everything that I can the B6 series cars actually don't need anything. One might consider the aluminum or brass items to strategically add weight. I'd get some of the various chassis weights they have available or at least the different C & D mounts. It seems like the newer cars are not well suited for lower traction tracks. Its hard to set up a B6 or B6D for anything less than medium traction in my opinion. The best tip that I got was from Matt Trimmings about making the 25g c block fit my B6D, When traction is down these cars seem to like a lot of extra weight.
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Old 11-27-2016, 03:40 AM   #4463
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Hey guys. New to the site but not to RC. Been doing it for 15+ yrs and working in the industry for the past 4. This is a setup question for those which the b6d running on high bite clay tracks.
How many if any are using the gullwing arms? Is anyone using the hard arms?
My setup was the flat arms and the lay down carpet trans until tnyt. I broke a arm and the track was out so I just put my gulling arms and tower back on and man I loved it!! So much turning. I could go so much harder into the corner than before. My question is what else should I change? Axle height or oil, spring weights? This is kinda a experiment since no one at my track is running them, well no one I know of anyway.
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Old 11-27-2016, 08:13 AM   #4464
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Hey guys, could use some advice here. I will be running on a carpet off road track but it's not ozite, it's a slightly looser nap home improvement store carpet. To further complicate the set up equation, we are required to run Primes or Smoothies. The track is on the smaller size...think 12-13 second laps. The overall message is that it is far lower traction than carpet with pins and staggers. The question: would I be better off to run a b6 or my old b5m (it's a championship edition so I have gullwing arms, 3 gear, a gear diff, etc) set up for carpet in this situation. Or would I even be able to tell a real difference in this situation? Thanks everyone!

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Old 11-27-2016, 08:42 AM   #4465
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Standard servo or low profile/shorty servo?
I prefer standard servo's only because it's less weight to add. Standards are just a touch heavier.
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Old 11-27-2016, 01:03 PM   #4466
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Does the internal gear ratio change going from a 3 to 4 gear or a laydown?? Thanks.
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Old 11-27-2016, 01:09 PM   #4467
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Does the internal gear ratio change going from a 3 to 4 gear or a laydown?? Thanks.
Nope
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Old 11-27-2016, 08:31 PM   #4468
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Hi guys any tip on power speed in entering sweeping corner and exit. Everytime when entering in the sweeping or corner area with on power speed i got flip so need slowly in that area but other car like LOSI they're fast entering in the corner or sweeping area with out flipping and loose traction.
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Old 11-27-2016, 08:36 PM   #4469
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Hi guys any tip on power speed in entering sweeping corner and exit. Everytime when entering in the sweeping or corner area with on power speed i got flip so need slowly in that area but other car like LOSI they're fast entering in the corner or sweeping area with out flipping and loose traction.
Carpet or dirt? What is your current set-up? What tires?
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Old 11-27-2016, 09:05 PM   #4470
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Carpet or dirt? What is your current set-up? What tires?
Is a dirt track b6d with laydown transmission stock set up only changes c&d bulkhead brass and front camber link hub 1.5mm spacer
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