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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 11-20-2016, 04:42 PM   #4381
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what color rims come with the B6D kit?
Kit doesn't come with rims....pick your flavor.
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Old 11-20-2016, 05:15 PM   #4382
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Sorry if this question has been asked before, if I'm running the tall rear shock tower and 31mm shock bodies, which shock eyelets are people running? I assume the long ones. Running shocks on the rear of the tower also.
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Old 11-20-2016, 05:20 PM   #4383
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Just finished building a B6 and wanted to set axel height to +3mm. Am I correct the kit only comes with parts to do +2 with 1mm top and 2mm bottom?
Do I need part ASC916put 76 to do +3?

This is a pic of what I did for now - put the top 1mm spacer above the spindle and added a 1mm spacer on top of the 2mm. Any reason this wouldn't do the same thing?
Yeah you have to buy the optional kit to put the 3 on the bottom to get the lowest setup possible. I was kinda upset you have to buy the kit to get the one you need.
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Old 11-21-2016, 03:33 AM   #4384
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Pretty sure my kit came with the 1/3 and the 2/2 inserts. There where 4 inserts on the tree
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Old 11-21-2016, 03:55 AM   #4385
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Pretty sure my kit came with the 1/3 and the 2/2 inserts. There where 4 inserts on the tree
They are talking about the front axle height, the blue aluminum shims that raise it up or down.
I thought my kit came with the 0 and 3 shims but I could be wrong. I will check when I get home later
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Old 11-21-2016, 05:25 AM   #4386
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They are talking about the front axle height, the blue aluminum shims that raise it up or down.
I thought my kit came with the 0 and 3 shims but I could be wrong. I will check when I get home later
The B6d comes with 0 and 3, the b6 comes with 1 and 2
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Old 11-21-2016, 09:29 AM   #4387
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
The B6d comes with 0 and 3, the b6 comes with 1 and 2
If that is the case wouldn't that be exactly opposite of what most setups call for?
Meaning most carpet B6 setups use +3 and most B6D use +2 or +1??

Edit: I looked at a few more B6D setups and appears 0 is common. Sounds like AE really should include at least the 0 alum part in both kits if not 0 and 3.
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Old 11-21-2016, 10:51 AM   #4388
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If that is the case wouldn't that be exactly opposite of what most setups call for?
Meaning most carpet B6 setups use +3 and most B6D use +2 or +1??

Edit: I looked at a few more B6D setups and appears 0 is common. Sounds like AE really should include at least the 0 alum part in both kits if not 0 and 3.
The B6D would have the larger 3mm on top and the 0 on the bottom, opposite of the B6.
Your right, you would think they would include all of them in both kits
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Old 11-21-2016, 11:36 AM   #4389
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Hey guys, I don't know how many of you guys race 17.5 buggy and have to get your cars weighed prior to racing but my track just started this week. My car was box stock except the MIP pucks system which I know is lighter weight. After practice I decided to try adding the 12G brass C plate for a little more rear grip, and went to the first heat and they checked my weight and it was 1502!!! This car with the MIP Pucks and nothing else would be quite a bit underweight for most 1500 weight limits.
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Old 11-21-2016, 12:10 PM   #4390
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Hey guys, I don't know how many of you guys race 17.5 buggy and have to get your cars weighed prior to racing but my track just started this week. My car was box stock except the MIP pucks system which I know is lighter weight. After practice I decided to try adding the 12G brass C plate for a little more rear grip, and went to the first heat and they checked my weight and it was 1502!!! This car with the MIP Pucks and nothing else would be quite a bit underweight for most 1500 weight limits.
Our mod laydown car with full 4500 shorty and 25g C block weighs 1534. This car is very light out of the box and so tunable. That's why it makes an excellent stock car too.
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Old 11-21-2016, 12:28 PM   #4391
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Our mod laydown car with full 4500 shorty and 25g C block weighs 1534. This car is very light out of the box and so tunable. That's why it makes an excellent stock car too.
^What HE said^ Except mine weighs 1570 race ready setup for carpet with Brass front bulkhead, and Brass lipo weights and a 5000mah battery, and a front wing
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Old 11-21-2016, 12:35 PM   #4392
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Our mod laydown car with full 4500 shorty and 25g C block weighs 1534. This car is very light out of the box and so tunable. That's why it makes an excellent stock car too.
I agree, don't take my comment as a complaint because it wasn't meant to be one. I was simply shocked at just how light it really was. Like I said, we never had our stock buggies "teched" before yesterday so I was shocked to find out that even after adding the brass that it was only 1502
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Old 11-21-2016, 12:35 PM   #4393
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Im sure there are people out there running the Brass C block on the B6. Is there anyone running them on the carpet? just curious on handling characteristics with mod. I was thinking about trying it.
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Old 11-21-2016, 06:35 PM   #4394
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I agree, don't take my comment as a complaint because it wasn't meant to be one. I was simply shocked at just how light it really was. Like I said, we never had our stock buggies "teched" before yesterday so I was shocked to find out that even after adding the brass that it was only 1502
Nope, I knew you weren't complaining. It's all good.
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Old 11-21-2016, 07:00 PM   #4395
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The fact that you don't have to do anything to a B6 or B6D to get them to 1500 is why TLR is coming out with a lightweight car. I was able to get a B5M to 1411g......I'm sure that I could get the B6 down to 50 less than that. I'm just saying....I found that my cars were the easiest to drive closer to 1500 so I haven't even tried to do anything other than add weight to my B6 series cars.
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