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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 11-10-2016, 10:51 AM   #4291
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I just refuse to put aluminum towers on my car....
+1
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Old 11-10-2016, 01:43 PM   #4292
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anyone know which TLR aluminum dogbones will work on the B6D? i saw a post awhile back somewhere, can't find it

also saw a photo of a battery brace for B6D that where you remove waterfall and run a link from gearbox to top of battery plate. anyone know who makes it for sale? maybe just a one off custom?
67mm the updated 22 3.0 bones. not the original 3.0 bones, also you need to run alumn rear hubs with special 1.5 off set inserts. I know BMI makes them. have to email them
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Old 11-10-2016, 03:18 PM   #4293
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I refuse to run a front wing.... forever.
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Old 11-11-2016, 03:47 AM   #4294
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Give it time you'll come over to the darkside
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Old 11-11-2016, 06:31 AM   #4295
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Sorry for the dumb question guys but I am new to the whole MIP puck thing as it came with my buggy so I don't know much about them.

Anyway, I think I have this based on how it looks:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/mip-puc...p16080/p520428

in my haste I thought all I needed was this:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/mip-b6-...p16041/p532350

but when I got it all together (of course then) looking at reasonable levels of droop the part that goes into the outdrives appear to be coming out.

Anyway, what would be the right part to be able to use the gear diff setup from MIP, I am thinking bones but not sure what to order? Is it this:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/mip-ass...p16040/p531932

and considering mine has what appears to be that two piece assembly of the bone (the gun metal to black part the "yoke"? ), does this replace that completely? (sorry just don't want to order and find out I am wrong).
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Old 11-11-2016, 09:58 AM   #4296
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Sorry for the dumb question guys but I am new to the whole MIP puck thing as it came with my buggy so I don't know much about them.

Anyway, I think I have this based on how it looks:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/mip-puc...p16080/p520428

in my haste I thought all I needed was this:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/mip-b6-...p16041/p532350

but when I got it all together (of course then) looking at reasonable levels of droop the part that goes into the outdrives appear to be coming out.

Anyway, what would be the right part to be able to use the gear diff setup from MIP, I am thinking bones but not sure what to order? Is it this:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/mip-ass...p16040/p531932

and considering mine has what appears to be that two piece assembly of the bone (the gun metal to black part the "yoke"? ), does this replace that completely? (sorry just don't want to order and find out I am wrong).
I am not using these on mine, but I have them just in case. The bone is a little short on the b6, but completely doable. but these spacers will move the axles inward 1mm and make less prone to issues. Are you using the middle row of holes on the C and D block?


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LXFRHG&P=K


Also, MIP just came out with new titanium bones that are 1mm longer as well.
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Old 11-11-2016, 10:43 AM   #4297
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I am not using these on mine, but I have them just in case. The bone is a little short on the b6, but completely doable. but these spacers will move the axles inward 1mm and make less prone to issues. Are you using the middle row of holes on the C and D block?


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LXFRHG&P=K


Also, MIP just came out with new titanium bones that are 1mm longer as well.
I think you mean Exotek
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Old 11-11-2016, 11:47 AM   #4298
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Anyone use the factory associated +1 steering blocks for increased ackerman? Is this the same geometry as Schelle and any marked difference in cornering? Thx
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Old 11-11-2016, 12:02 PM   #4299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I am not using these on mine, but I have them just in case. The bone is a little short on the b6, but completely doable. but these spacers will move the axles inward 1mm and make less prone to issues. Are you using the middle row of holes on the C and D block?


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LXFRHG&P=K


Also, MIP just came out with new titanium bones that are 1mm longer as well.
I am using the stock B6 pisitons which from memory are still middle row oriented holes (no vertical orientation),

For the pic of the exoteks, seems still short on engagement but could be wrong:

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Old 11-11-2016, 12:23 PM   #4300
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Anyone use the factory associated +1 steering blocks for increased ackerman? Is this the same geometry as Schelle and any marked difference in cornering? Thx
I'm testing them tomorrow I'll report back
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Old 11-11-2016, 12:30 PM   #4301
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Default Lifting Front Inner Wheel

Running the B6 indoors on turf. Using stock set-up. Handles well. Only on sweepers the front inner wheels lifts. Wondering if I should stiffen the rear? Thanks.
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Old 11-11-2016, 12:39 PM   #4302
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exotek got back to me, they did there testing of the bones prior to the gear diff option, so I wouldn't be surprised those don't work.
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Old 11-11-2016, 02:03 PM   #4303
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exotek got back to me, they did there testing of the bones prior to the gear diff option, so I wouldn't be surprised those don't work.
racing on carpet I assume? just get the AE +1mm spacers
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Old 11-11-2016, 02:09 PM   #4304
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http://www.exotekracing.com/b6-hd-pu...-bone-systems/

no spacers needed....i hope. i run a ball diff

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 11-11-2016 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 11-11-2016, 04:58 PM   #4305
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Originally Posted by Fearo View Post
Would someone who owns a B6 (laydown) be able to do me a huge favor?

Could you measure me the exact distance (in mm) between the motor protector brace and the back of the (preferably shorty) servo?

Please state if this is with a shorty or regular servo. Many thanks in advance.
I measured mine with a Savox 1251 Shorty Servo, at 123-125mm. Sorry best I could do. its tough to get my calipers in there
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