649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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10-28-2016, 10:33 AM
#4067
Scott,
Are you talking about shimming under the piston to limit the fully extended length of the rear shock?
If so how much you talking about?
Are you talking about shimming under the piston to limit the fully extended length of the rear shock?
If so how much you talking about?
10-28-2016, 10:45 AM
#4068
Best motor screws and allows you to use a 2.5mm ball end.
10-28-2016, 11:14 AM
#4069
tsair, what drove you to settle on a 23 mm ride height? What compound tires are these primes/electrons?
It seems you are in an interesting position going between slicks and treads in the same day. Is there any sort of track prep or maintenance that occurs during the event?
It seems you are in an interesting position going between slicks and treads in the same day. Is there any sort of track prep or maintenance that occurs during the event?
The number doesn't matter, the point is people use a number, and then stick with it regardless of tire change.
Once it gets dusty, or dries out, we have to switch to mini-pins, but the pins are actually digging into the surface a tiny bit (for convenience sake, I'm just going to say 1mm). So the distance from the surface of the dirt to the bottom of your buggy is probably close to the same with the minipins as it is with the slicks (on the hard, tacky surface).
Obviously the surface isn't perfectly flat, the amount the tire digs in, etc. isn't the same, etc. I'm speaking in generalizations.
Just food for thought. Obviously, do whatever makes you feel happy, whatever works best for you and your buggy, just providing alternative thought on the subject. Experiment.
Age is just a number. Just like your ride height.
10-28-2016, 01:39 PM
#4070
10-28-2016, 03:57 PM
#4071
Got my little buggy all wired up this afternoon. I have till this Wednesday to get everything else set up and ready run.. wheels, radio settings, adjustments and weight balancing these next few days...
Looking forward to my first run with this scale at my track.
Looking forward to my first run with this scale at my track.
10-28-2016, 04:51 PM
#4072
Tech Rookie
if I want to convert a b6d to a b6 all I have to do is get the gullwing arms, wide shock tower, gear diff, laydown trans, and mount the shocks with the short eyelets on the front of the arm. Correct?
10-28-2016, 09:12 PM
#4074
The C-block inserts are also different. Springs/oils are also completely different if you don't already have some you are planning on using.
10-28-2016, 10:42 PM
#4075
Front axle height shims are different as well. My B6 kit would not allow me to adjust my axle for the dirt setup I was after so I'm assuming it's the same the otherr way. Just a small detail. Ae sells the shim kit to get more adjustment as does schelle and maybe some other companies.
10-29-2016, 03:38 AM
#4076
Tech Adept
I would recommend shortening the negative (-) wire to the battery so you cannot accidentally plug it in to the positive. That's such a nice speedy I would hate for it to ever go up in smoke.
Only speaking from personal experience.
10-29-2016, 03:51 AM
#4077
Thanks man... I'll be paying attention to that detail for sure.
10-29-2016, 06:14 AM
#4078
I was thinking the same thing about shortening the battery leads also from experience. Smoked an LRP back in the day by doing that, in my defense it was on a 22 1.0 with the esc in the stock location and it was very easy to do that even with the wiring being as short as possible. I have been very happy with that servo I bought two more for my other rigs and have that speedo for my B6 as well since I am very happy with the v3.1 in my b5m.
10-29-2016, 05:32 PM
#4079
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...ory_Code=MOTOR
Best motor screws and allows you to use a 2.5mm ball end.
Best motor screws and allows you to use a 2.5mm ball end.
10-29-2016, 09:33 PM
#4080
what would be the benefit of running TLR 22 3. rear hubs on the b6