649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
|
10-27-2016, 03:25 PM
#4041
10-27-2016, 03:39 PM
#4042
i have took my slipper lock out off even on high bite. maybe if ur track dont have a lot of 180's it might be ok but with my monster trinity hp seems to break loose with a slipper delete. spend that 12 bucks on some tires.
10-27-2016, 04:06 PM
#4044
Are you guys raising/lowering your ride heights when changing tires? For example, my Electrons are about 1-2mm radius bigger than my slicks. When I slap on the Electrons, lowering the ride height 1mm produces a bunch of unwanted effects (camber angles, camber link geometry, etc.) that would be a pain to re-sort.
Doing some testing, it seems better to just leave the car untouched, which means you are driving at different ride heights, depending on the tire.
Doing some testing, it seems better to just leave the car untouched, which means you are driving at different ride heights, depending on the tire.
10-27-2016, 04:10 PM
#4045
Are you guys raising/lowering your ride heights when changing tires? For example, my Electrons are about 1-2mm radius bigger than my slicks. When I slap on the Electrons, lowering the ride height 1mm produces a bunch of unwanted effects (camber angles, camber link geometry, etc.) that would be a pain to re-sort.
Doing some testing, it seems better to just leave the car untouched, which means you are driving at different ride heights, depending on the tire.
Doing some testing, it seems better to just leave the car untouched, which means you are driving at different ride heights, depending on the tire.
10-27-2016, 04:24 PM
#4046
In other words, you can't just adjust your shock collars to get the same ride height when switching tires. Theoretically you need to re-adjust everything, including camber links, ballstud heights, etc. to get the same (relative) roll centers, etc.
If you extrapolate to an extreme case -- let's say you set your ride height to 23mm and then use a 3mm bigger radius tire -- you can't just drop your car 3mm to compensate, this would be a huge change to everything. Your arm angles would be too low, you would be in a different part of the spring travel, your camber links would be more angled, etc.
Anyways, just something I noticed. On the B6, 1mm ride height makes such a huge difference, probably mostly because the geometry of everything changes. In my opinion, this is why AE provided axle height adjustments in the B6 -- if you want to change ride heights, you can also compensate in the axle heights to keep the geometry of everything the same.
10-27-2016, 04:38 PM
#4048
But then you're affecting camber, roll centers, etc.
In other words, you can't just adjust your shock collars to get the same ride height when switching tires. Theoretically you need to re-adjust everything, including camber links, ballstud heights, etc. to get the same (relative) roll centers, etc.
If you extrapolate to an extreme case -- let's say you set your ride height to 23mm and then use a 3mm bigger radius tire -- you can't just drop your car 3mm to compensate, this would be a huge change to everything. Your arm angles would be too low, you would be in a different part of the spring travel, your camber links would be more angled, etc.
Anyways, just something I noticed. On the B6, 1mm ride height makes such a huge difference, probably mostly because the geometry of everything changes. In my opinion, this is why AE provided axle height adjustments in the B6 -- if you want to change ride heights, you can also compensate in the axle heights to keep the geometry of everything the same.
In other words, you can't just adjust your shock collars to get the same ride height when switching tires. Theoretically you need to re-adjust everything, including camber links, ballstud heights, etc. to get the same (relative) roll centers, etc.
If you extrapolate to an extreme case -- let's say you set your ride height to 23mm and then use a 3mm bigger radius tire -- you can't just drop your car 3mm to compensate, this would be a huge change to everything. Your arm angles would be too low, you would be in a different part of the spring travel, your camber links would be more angled, etc.
Anyways, just something I noticed. On the B6, 1mm ride height makes such a huge difference, probably mostly because the geometry of everything changes. In my opinion, this is why AE provided axle height adjustments in the B6 -- if you want to change ride heights, you can also compensate in the axle heights to keep the geometry of everything the same.
Forget about it. Adjust ride height and go fast. I have been doing good with my B6D with the kit set up, laydown transmission and brass C Block. The track changes all the time anyway.
10-27-2016, 05:09 PM
#4049
Was trying to figure out why, and had never heard of this idea before. Most people are just like "dude, you GOTTA be at 23/18/30mm no matter what!".
