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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-17-2016, 08:11 AM   #3811
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First race this week-end on a brand new track (for me) and my brand new B6 with box setup.
Grab the A main so yes, the car is pretty safe and fast.

but got a little too much steering at low speed and not enough front grip at full speed
do you get a starting point for setup that ?

Oh, it was a carpet track, I run new minipin/cut-stagger combo without traction compound
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Old 10-17-2016, 08:13 AM   #3812
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Originally Posted by 5tone View Post
First race this week-end on a brand new track (for me) and my brand new B6 with box setup.
Grab the A main so yes, the car is pretty safe and fast.

but got a little too much steering at low speed and not enough front grip at full speed
do you get a starting point for setup that ?

Oh, it was a carpet track, I run new minipin/cut-stagger combo without traction compound
Run a Front wing to help add high speed steering, or get the Brass Front Bulkhead
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Old 10-17-2016, 09:01 AM   #3813
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Can anyone consolidate some tips for more steering deviating from kit setup. Have a b6d laydown with shocks in front. Looking for tighter 180's and less push. Any tips much appreciated.
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Old 10-17-2016, 09:31 AM   #3814
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Can anyone consolidate some tips for more steering deviating from kit setup. Have a b6d laydown with shocks in front. Looking for tighter 180's and less push. Any tips much appreciated.
honestly, for 180s...more/better breaking.
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Old 10-17-2016, 09:39 AM   #3815
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stiffer rear springs, lighter gear diff fluid if running gear diff
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Old 10-17-2016, 10:46 AM   #3816
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What Mah and c rating battery are y'all running?.. I have a B6d showing up and this will be my first 1:10th buggy. I'm shopping around for shorties and some tires, so any help y'all have there is appreciated...
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Old 10-17-2016, 10:57 AM   #3817
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SMC makes good batteries for a good price. I'm running their race shorty (4000 mah and 100C) http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=338

Unfortunately, they are on backorder right now.
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:10 AM   #3818
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Originally Posted by Thrifty View Post
What Mah and c rating battery are y'all running?.. I have a B6d showing up and this will be my first 1:10th buggy. I'm shopping around for shorties and some tires, so any help y'all have there is appreciated...
it depends on if your racing stock or mod. With the prices being so reasonable now there are a lot of choices. a 3800 and up battery will work in stock or mod with no run time issues. On any quality battery 100C is pretty much the standard now. I have some fantom batteries and orion batteries. the fantoms are 3800 and the orion's are 3900. They are the thin batteries which i really like and are about 50 grams lighter than a full thickness battery. I have had the best luck with orion and fantom. There are some batteries out there that are 10-15 dollars cheaper but from my experience you get a longer life pack when you spend a little more. Orion and Fantom packs will cost around $50-60. I have seen more problems with the cheap batteries than they are worth.

Tires are going to be dependent on where you are running. Check with the locals and see what is working on your track. Where i am at i can throw on some proline electrons super soft and they work, but that may not work at your track. Avoid the 2.4 tires no matter what you choose though. They are more difficult to mount and seem to be on the verge of being discontinued all together.
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:12 AM   #3819
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Can anyone consolidate some tips for more steering deviating from kit setup. Have a b6d laydown with shocks in front. Looking for tighter 180's and less push. Any tips much appreciated.
Change Ackerman settings or add the type 1 steering block plates made by schelle.
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:33 AM   #3820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5tone View Post
First race this week-end on a brand new track (for me) and my brand new B6 with box setup.
Grab the A main so yes, the car is pretty safe and fast.

but got a little too much steering at low speed and not enough front grip at full speed
do you get a starting point for setup that ?

Oh, it was a carpet track, I run new minipin/cut-stagger combo without traction compound
That is the problem your tires are new. You will find they perform better as they scuff or wear in. To much traction and especially sidebite new. Also if running mod you will probably want to invest in the chassis weights too to move more weight forward.
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:47 AM   #3821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRSracing View Post
it depends on if your racing stock or mod. With the prices being so reasonable now there are a lot of choices. a 3800 and up battery will work in stock or mod with no run time issues. On any quality battery 100C is pretty much the standard now. I have some fantom batteries and orion batteries. the fantoms are 3800 and the orion's are 3900. They are the thin batteries which i really like and are about 50 grams lighter than a full thickness battery. I have had the best luck with orion and fantom. There are some batteries out there that are 10-15 dollars cheaper but from my experience you get a longer life pack when you spend a little more. Orion and Fantom packs will cost around $50-60. I have seen more problems with the cheap batteries than they are worth.

Tires are going to be dependent on where you are running. Check with the locals and see what is working on your track. Where i am at i can throw on some proline electrons super soft and they work, but that may not work at your track. Avoid the 2.4 tires no matter what you choose though. They are more difficult to mount and seem to be on the verge of being discontinued all together.
I was checking out the smc's as I've read they're pretty good. Was also looking at a Trinity 4000mah 100c high voltage shorty as the buggy I picked up has one of those already...

So the tires are 2.2 right?

Thanks for the help with the new questions here...
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Old 10-17-2016, 12:30 PM   #3822
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Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
Thanks, but having no weak link makes the Servo the weak link :P Dont want that.
I'll have to see how it is with all aluminum, but I broke the plastic servo horn two packs in a row, so that wasn't going to work.

Quote:
Have you noticed any change on the steering? Its kinda hard to describe what I mean but the B6D feels so damn smooth.
I found the aluminum rack to be more precise and to have more overall steering (corner entry and exit). It adds 2.6g of weight over the plastic one.
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Last edited by tsair; 10-17-2016 at 12:51 PM.
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Old 10-17-2016, 12:47 PM   #3823
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Have you tried the Schelle type 1? That is the only thing that is not kit on my setup except Yokomo green rear. Drove a buggy setup kit with same spring set and steering was a lot more aggressive. I've got 2mm on the steering rack for ackerman, tried 1mm and that was worse. I'll have to look again to see if anything is upside down. Bought it used. kickup plate is 25mm. caster hubs +5 as shown in kit (looking from rear to front hole is on top sloping downward to the front of the spindle).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Carey View Post
Change Ackerman settings or add the type 1 steering block plates made by schelle.
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Old 10-17-2016, 04:55 PM   #3824
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Have you tried the Schelle type 1? That is the only thing that is not kit on my setup except Yokomo green rear. Drove a buggy setup kit with same spring set and steering was a lot more aggressive. I've got 2mm on the steering rack for ackerman, tried 1mm and that was worse. I'll have to look again to see if anything is upside down. Bought it used. kickup plate is 25mm. caster hubs +5 as shown in kit (looking from rear to front hole is on top sloping downward to the front of the spindle).
Makes the outer wheel turn more. Helps with the 180's
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Old 10-17-2016, 05:56 PM   #3825
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Originally Posted by Thrifty View Post
I was checking out the smc's as I've read they're pretty good. Was also looking at a Trinity 4000mah 100c high voltage shorty as the buggy I picked up has one of those already...

So the tires are 2.2 right?

Thanks for the help with the new questions here...
Yes 2.2 tires and wheels. I have not used the Trinity battery so I can't really say. I have used SMC and every one has puffed or came puffed so i went with a little higher quality pack and have never had a issue. I think the Trinity has 5mm plugs so if you mix and match battery brands make sure they all have the same size bullet connectors (if your using bullets).
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