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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-10-2016, 10:01 PM   #3691
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Unfortunately I don't have anything to add about carbon towers. I do have a question about running mod.
What is the sweet spot for weight in Mod running a 7.5 with a laydown on med/high bite? Ran my stock buggy with a 7.5 today adding no weight (currently 1530 grams) and didn't have the grip I expected. New to mod. Thx all
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Old 10-10-2016, 10:19 PM   #3692
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Originally Posted by LVNeptune View Post
It really doesn't... Just because you haven't seen it doesn't mean there isn't a problem.
exactly.
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Old 10-10-2016, 10:31 PM   #3693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Unfortunately I don't have anything to add about carbon towers. I do have a question about running mod.
What is the sweet spot for weight in Mod running a 7.5 with a laydown on med/high bite? Ran my stock buggy with a 7.5 today adding no weight (currently 1530 grams) and didn't have the grip I expected. New to mod. Thx all

the fast mod guys at my club seem to be around the 1580 mark
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Old 10-10-2016, 10:39 PM   #3694
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Anywhere from 1550 ish to 1580 is the norm. What's more important is where the weight is. Play with weight and brass c mounts and the other weight options (under battery brass weight and the two chassis plates).
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Old 10-10-2016, 10:59 PM   #3695
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can someone tell me what the width difference is (if any) between the jconcepts "slim" front wheels and cut down normal (3347)width front wheels?
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Old 10-10-2016, 11:03 PM   #3696
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I had that question and my friend couldn't answer it. After doing my first build it honestly looks like the slim wheels are already sized for carpet front tires so you don't have to cut the wheel.

EDIT: After reading the description looks like I was right. I should have just bought the slim tires from the get-go.
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Old 10-11-2016, 02:22 AM   #3697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lunchie View Post
can someone tell me what the width difference is (if any) between the jconcepts "slim" front wheels and cut down normal (3347)width front wheels?
the slim wheels are intended for the narrower carpet tires (https://www.amainhobbies.com/jconcep...12960?v=507813). If you're on dirt, stick with the normal front wheels/tires (e.g. https://www.amainhobbies.com/proline...85801?v=377179).
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:21 AM   #3698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LVNeptune View Post
On a separate note, why is AE confusing the heck out of consumers?

The B6 uses the gullwing B6D arms...
The B6D uses the flat B6 arms...

...?

It makes it confusing when ordering parts. You are ordering a B6D arm for your B6 and a B6 arm for your B6D ? Why?
Where are you reading this?
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Old 10-11-2016, 06:49 AM   #3699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Brown View Post
Do those of you wanting a plastic tower really think associated didn't do testing with plastic towers? ...
From a durability perspective, to be fair no vehicle I have seen released has been free of any issues that the manufacture later comes back with a running change or beefed up new part.

Maybe having your best and brightest doing durability testing is counter productive. You really need the "worst" drivers for that which once its released to the public seem to find issues very quickly

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
Where are you reading this?
tower hobbies lists gullwing arms and flat arms as "b6".

Amain in particular lists the flat arms as b6 and the gullwings as b6D.

Confused me at first too as I think some aftermarket shock towers also either reverse the description or don't clarify what is what.
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Old 10-11-2016, 07:13 AM   #3700
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New stuff from Avid.

http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
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Old 10-11-2016, 07:16 AM   #3701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
From a durability perspective, to be fair no vehicle I have seen released has been free of any issues that the manufacture later comes back with a running change or beefed up new part.

Maybe having your best and brightest doing durability testing is counter productive. You really need the "worst" drivers for that which once its released to the public seem to find issues very quickly



tower hobbies lists gullwing arms and flat arms as "b6".

Amain in particular lists the flat arms as b6 and the gullwings as b6D.

Confused me at first too as I think some aftermarket shock towers also either reverse the description or don't clarify what is what.
I know of a company that has a bad driver doing production testing.... lol
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Old 10-11-2016, 08:05 AM   #3702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
tower hobbies lists gullwing arms and flat arms as "b6".

Amain in particular lists the flat arms as b6 and the gullwings as b6D.

Confused me at first too as I think some aftermarket shock towers also either reverse the description or don't clarify what is what.
That's a tower / amain issue then, not ae. However as you know, either will work on either platform as long as you use the proper tower.
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Old 10-11-2016, 08:18 AM   #3703
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What's the opinons on weight "sweet spot" and location(s) for a B6, stock(17.5) with laydown on turf? Or, is the actual "sweet spot" no additional weight at all for stock 17.5. My buggy is currently 1555 grams with brass weight under the receiver/esc. Not sure if maybe that's too heavy to run for 17.5 or not.
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:14 AM   #3704
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The Titanium battery posts are cool looking ........ must resist
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:29 AM   #3705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
That's a tower / amain issue then, not ae. However as you know, either will work on either platform as long as you use the proper tower.
description comes ups like towerhobbies on AE site too when trying some part #:

- 91671
- 91673

Not sure why amain is more "off".

But yeah I agree you just need the right tower. I wonder if amain maybe tried to make it a bit more clear with the "B6D" designation since they are separate cars that share parts.
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