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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-10-2016, 05:29 PM
  #3676  
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Originally Posted by Scargoes
I'm a crappy driver and have yet to break my shock towers.
Weird...the internet tells me that's impossible.
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:41 PM
  #3677  
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OK I will probably regret this comment but the carpet track I race at probably has a front tower on average that gets fractured each race day, not broke fractured. In AE's defense there is a weird jump that's throws you funny sometimes. Yes they're getting broke from crashes, bad crashes I don't think so. Here's my question why didn't AE just make a plastic tower version also?
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jswo
Here's my question why didn't AE just make a plastic tower version also?
https://www.teamassociated.com/contact/

They make race cars...the car is plenty durable. You start making everything out of plastic you create flex
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:01 PM
  #3679  
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I get that also I'm not a engineer just not sure a plastic tower would add that much unwanted flex. Thanks for the reply
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:22 PM
  #3680  
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Originally Posted by Scargoes
I'm a crappy driver and have yet to break my shock towers.
Same, I've had some spectacular crashes and my towers are fine. I took a look at the AE towers compared to the Schumacher towers and there's is actually more material on the AE towers. Never broke a Schumacher tower either.
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:31 PM
  #3681  
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I race carpet not sure if that makes a difference
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:47 PM
  #3682  
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Seems like a weak point. My B6 front tower lasted quite some time until a marshal blocked my view for a second and I tagged the wall at fairly slow speed. I'm fine with it, but the towers could be a bit beefier.
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:58 PM
  #3683  
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Anyone know the admins on rc10b6 nation facebook page? They dont seem to be approving my join request
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:10 PM
  #3684  
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Do those of you wanting a plastic tower really think associated didn't do testing with plastic towers? Of course they did and in the end they decided on carbon fiber ones. Cars today are much more durable than cars of years before. But every car will break somewhere. It's part of racing. These aren't weak towers by any means. Just accept it and move on.
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:10 PM
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I'm in the group but don't know any admins =/
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:26 PM
  #3686  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
I have also seen zero issues with the stock towers. Club days have 40-50 buggies with a good portion of those being b6's. You must need some practice instead of spending money on hop ups....
I break during practice too.
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:39 PM
  #3687  
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
I break during practice too.
Proves my point.
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Old 10-10-2016, 08:26 PM
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It really doesn't... Just because you haven't seen it doesn't mean there isn't a problem.
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Old 10-10-2016, 09:20 PM
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Carpet is so much harder on your cars than dirt. All that plywood doesn't give.
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Old 10-10-2016, 09:35 PM
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On a separate note, why is AE confusing the heck out of consumers?

The B6 uses the gullwing B6D arms...
The B6D uses the flat B6 arms...

...?

It makes it confusing when ordering parts. You are ordering a B6D arm for your B6 and a B6 arm for your B6D ? Why?
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