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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 05-05-2016, 11:54 AM   #346
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Originally Posted by Raulote View Post
How does the rear axle height affect to the car?. What is better for what in terms of handling?
There are 2 ways to get a lower ride height. One way is to just run the car lower through shock settings. This places the car at a below arms level position at ride height and results in a suspension geometry that has a generally high roll center at that height. The geometry at that point is not optimal. The other way is to adjust the axle height. If you move the axle height up, the results is essentially just lowering the chassis. The difference is that the suspension geometry can stay closer to arms level at ride height and get the same ground clearance. Now your roll centers are more optimal for that lower ride height. Go back to a place where you need more clearance and you can change axle height and hence ground clearance without changing the roll centers. Losi on the JRX-Pro and Kyosho on the Ultima Pro both offered this feature in 1991.
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Old 05-05-2016, 02:08 PM   #347
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Originally Posted by fredswain View Post
There are 2 ways to get a lower ride height. One way is to just run the car lower through shock settings. This places the car at a below arms level position at ride height and results in a suspension geometry that has a generally high roll center at that height. The geometry at that point is not optimal. The other way is to adjust the axle height. If you move the axle height up, the results is essentially just lowering the chassis. The difference is that the suspension geometry can stay closer to arms level at ride height and get the same ground clearance. Now your roll centers are more optimal for that lower ride height. Go back to a place where you need more clearance and you can change axle height and hence ground clearance without changing the roll centers. Losi on the JRX-Pro and Kyosho on the Ultima Pro both offered this feature in 1991.
Thank you Fred!!!, great explanation!
So in theory, upper position of rear axle is better for higher bite and smooth tracks, and lower position suits better on rough and med/low bite tracks.
Right?
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Old 05-05-2016, 02:20 PM   #348
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Thank you Fred!!!, great explanation!
So in theory, upper position of rear axle is better for higher bite and smooth tracks, and lower position suits better on rough and med/low bite tracks.
Right?
That's how I use it. My dirt oval car, the Raborn Invencer, also has this feature and it's use is based on necessary ground clearance and tire diameter since in dirt oval we may run foam tires or 2.2 rubber.
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:25 PM   #349
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Hey Buddha, can you keep track of the "first modification" bets? Put me down for shorter wheelbase.
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:32 PM   #350
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Hey Buddha, can you keep track of the "first modification" bets? Put me down for shorter wheelbase.
I was thinking dirt version with the rear shocks mounted in front of the tower.
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:55 PM   #351
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I was thinking dirt version with the rear shocks mounted in front of the tower.
That can only be done with the laydown trans.
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:59 PM   #352
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Rear shocks mounted in front of the tower would require the laydown transmission to be fitted. Can't do it with the standup transmission.
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Old 05-05-2016, 07:00 PM   #353
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I must say the stock body is one of the best looking bodies out there.
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:16 PM   #354
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I think so too.
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:25 PM   #355
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Quote:
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Hey Buddha, can you keep track of the "first modification" bets? Put me down for shorter wheelbase.
I'd bet people will try to mod b5m parts to fit their B6's.
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:40 AM   #356
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[QUOTE=Logi Maker;14519216]
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Originally Posted by Mxer210 View Post
Did anyone see the video Spencer posted on FB a couple days ago about him getting his B6 ready for the JConcepts Spring Indoor National (a clay track) and he said something about a Shorty Reedy Servo, anyone catch that? Any news on

Will be announced next week. Howart has had one for a while in his TC.... I have been all over it for my TC7... 100% Reedy power.

Maybe I'll win Spencer's heart over next week in Tacoma for the B6 dirt DEBUT and he will give me his...

You'll be at TRCR for the JCon race? Me too!
But that is awesome, how do you know it will be announced next week? Can't wait to get one ordered for my B6!
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:53 AM   #357
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My hope by buying this kit is to just run it with a 6.5 and be competitive without having to upgrade anything.

My b5m set up for stock racing has cost too much money to set up right and I think a yz2 would have been better initially.

The b6 on the other hand looks promising.
If you are wanting to run stock with the B6 the only things you'll really need to be super competitive is buying the B6D kit, then the laydown transmission case, motor plate, idler gear and everything past that I really don't think you'll need for med-high traction clay tracks. Yes there will be way more available and some cool stuff but with what I mentioned above that is going to cost around $30-$40 I am guessing and that's not even going to be mandatory.

These kits coming out seem to be so well equipped out of the box it would be crazy to think you can't be competitive with what it comes with in any class.
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:09 AM   #358
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Don't know if it's been mentioned. But I think this car also has some elements from the new 4wd to be released soon. I think it's a platform thing. My crystal ball says so.

B64?
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:27 AM   #359
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Don't know if it's been mentioned. But I think this car also has some elements from the new 4wd to be released soon. I think it's a platform thing. My crystal ball says so.

B64?
I hope so. The entire back end configuration could be utilized
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:29 AM   #360
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The new B44 might be called the B64.
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