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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

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Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

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B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

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How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
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1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-06-2016, 01:06 AM   #3571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lunchie View Post
what would you hardened racers say is a good spares package to carry?I have ZERO support for this car at my track

Rear hubs/inserts?
Front shock tower?
front bulkhead?
wing mount?
wing mount, probably not.
Other parts you listed, yes
I would add

Wings
Servo arm
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Old 10-06-2016, 01:48 AM   #3572
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Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
If that's the case why would they specifically state in the instruction manual? A direct quote from the manual Bag 11-14 step 5: "Install the Diff with the head of the Diff Thrust Bolt (#6573) facing the side with the spur gear."
This is the suggestion so that you can remember that the diff bolt head is on the same side as the slipper clutch. If this didn't bother you it could be run the other way, but I can't see why someone would want to.
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Old 10-06-2016, 02:45 AM   #3573
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Originally Posted by belewis01 View Post
wing mount, probably not.
Other parts you listed, yes
I would add

Wings
Servo arm
VERY IMPORTANT : especially when you run a high torque motor

outdrives
CVA bones and rebuild kit.
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Old 10-06-2016, 02:47 AM   #3574
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Originally Posted by Yanks213x View Post
i'm having an issue with my laydown transmission .. It's hard to explain but with no motor or anything I feel like it doesn't not rotate smoothly .. I thought at first it was how I put the diff in. I'm running a ball diff and currently have the head the opposite way. The instructions call for the head to be in the direction of the spur but looking at the B5M 3 gear instructions .. it calls for the head the opposite way. Is there a reason why you'd do it differently with the laydown?
you probably are over tightening the transmission box hex screws.
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Old 10-06-2016, 04:05 AM   #3575
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Originally Posted by bru00z View Post
Make sure you used the correct length screws for the transmission through the chassis. Think its meant to be 8mm. I had 1 10mm by accident and it hit the diff!
I agree with this. I had a post earlier in this thread with a pic that shows what happens, but basically the longer screw pushes the diff case material up into the diff gear causing binding.
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Old 10-06-2016, 07:35 AM   #3576
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Who is running the MIP Pucks? Worth buying or not?
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Old 10-06-2016, 08:16 AM   #3577
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Thanks I'll have to give that a shot. I don't think I'm over tightening since I'm well aware it's metal into plastic.. I'll fool around with the screws and see what the deal is. Ive built aND rebuilt a few diffs and transmissions to spec without issue except for this one.. hopefully it's legit just a screw length issue.
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Old 10-06-2016, 08:32 AM   #3578
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Who is running the MIP Pucks? Worth buying or not?
If you are running 17.5 stock class, very worth it. Mod class, maybe. Depends on a few variables.
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Old 10-06-2016, 08:43 AM   #3579
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If anyone is looking for a low-medium traction, smaller layout with a mix of speed corners and 180's, here is my setup. Running in a open class using a 17.5t.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Johnny 10-1-16.pdf (193.5 KB, 76 views)
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Old 10-06-2016, 08:43 AM   #3580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lunchie View Post
what would you hardened racers say is a good spares package to carry?I have ZERO support for this car at my track

Rear hubs/inserts?
Front shock tower?
front bulkhead?
wing mount?
Definitely add front arms and turnbuckles. Lots of complaints about rear shock towers breaking too, but I haven't seen that yet.

I've bent a few titanium turnbuckles and broke a bulkhead when running a 10.5. That's about it.
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Old 10-06-2016, 10:19 AM   #3581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
If that's the case why would they specifically state in the instruction manual? A direct quote from the manual Bag 11-14 step 5: "Install the Diff with the head of the Diff Thrust Bolt (#6573) facing the side with the spur gear."
Because people need them to hold their hand and tell them what to do. Previous AE manuals didn't specify which way to put the diff in, because it doesn't matter. A million people then asked "which way does my diff go in?" Now, they just tell you which way to put it in so people stop asking.
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Old 10-06-2016, 10:22 AM   #3582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
If that's the case why would they specifically state in the instruction manual? A direct quote from the manual Bag 11-14 step 5: "Install the Diff with the head of the Diff Thrust Bolt (#6573) facing the side with the spur gear."
I ALWAYS put the hex screw on the motor side, because it is easier to get at for adjustments.
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Old 10-06-2016, 10:59 AM   #3583
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I actually recall a discussion years ago with someone at AE (called in for a charger issue, yeah that long ago) and they mentioned something about if you put the screw on the wrong side the diff could potentially "spin open". It mainly came up towards the end as I was curious why I was tightening down my diff more than I thought I should have been. I flipped it to the correct "side" and no issues afterwards.

however, on the truck version I didn't have the issue, so it could have just been that nut and bolt. So who knows, maybe its more so when things are worn to watch for.


Right now debating getting the gear diff. I have the pucks based on what came with my vehicle, but ball diff installed from what I can tell. Is there any place that has the MIP outdrives specific for the gear diff in stock?
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Old 10-06-2016, 11:02 AM   #3584
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If you put it in the "correct" way then it would continually tighten itself. It doesn't matter.
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Old 10-06-2016, 11:08 AM   #3585
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I like Gear Diffs better myself, so after I destroy this ball diff, ill buy the Gear diff kit.
If I was running it offroad id by the laydown transmission also, but it may run fine without it I dunno I'm racing it today finally on hard packed clay dirt oval.
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