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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 10-02-2016, 06:03 AM   #3526
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I'll tell you what radio and electronics I'm using in my B6D.
Castle Sidewinder 4600kv brushless system, switched the red and white wires so that the motor runs in reverse for a mid motor car and it works fine this way.
84 tooth spur does fit so I used that instead of the included spur gears. 19 tooth pinion.
Gear cover does fit with the 84 tooth spur gear on it.
Savox metal geared servo, Futaba FASST receiver so I can use my 3PM radio.
Battery I'm using is a stick pack. Common Sense Lipo 7600mah. 75C
I know I don't have the greatest stuff I can use but its going to work out for me.
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Old 10-02-2016, 07:39 AM   #3527
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You shouldn't have had to reverse the wires for the motor to work, any regular rotation motor works on the b6. Sounds like you may have something else going on like maybe it is reversed on your radio?

Did you calibrate your esc and radio correctly?

Last edited by xyzracer; 10-02-2016 at 07:40 AM. Reason: Another question
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Old 10-02-2016, 08:19 AM   #3528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boucher View Post
It moves the wing mount up by 2mm as well to put the wing in cleaner air. You'll use the same springs on the longer shock bodies.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RcForLife View Post
The VRP +2 is the same as stock, just moves the wing 2mm higher. I spoke to them the other day. Very soon they will have the gullwing front and tall rear towers available.
ok thanks, I'll watch for the tall tower from VRP


Quote:
Originally Posted by jmoneym View Post
When using the 31mm shock body and tall tower, do you use the short or long eyelet?
anyone?
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Old 10-02-2016, 08:26 AM   #3529
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Long eyelet if mounting the shocks to the rear, short eyelet if mounting on the front of the tower.

Unless you use the new schelle rear tower, it is designed to use the short eyelets even if shocks are mounted to the rear.

Last edited by xyzracer; 10-02-2016 at 08:26 AM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 10-02-2016, 08:42 AM   #3530
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[QUOTE=xyzracer;14689756]You shouldn't have had to reverse the wires for the motor to work, any regular rotation motor works on the b6. Sounds like you may have something else going on like maybe it is reversed on your radio?

+1
I am using a hobbyking v3.1 stock spec and a reedy 17.5 and the motor runs normal direction. I gave up on castle esc due to weak becs.
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Old 10-02-2016, 08:47 AM   #3531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RcForLife View Post
As far as the tower breaking, locally I've seen several stock ae and aftermarket carbon towers break. Pretty much everyone has switched to the vrp aluminum towers and zero issues. They are solid and look really good on the car. I personally like the option towers front and rear, they have a hole between the very inside and middle holes. They just eliminate the very outside hole completely. Very cool in my opinion.

You've seen lots of people using the Al vrp towers? Are those people finding that instead of the towers breaking that other parts are bending or breaking? Something has to give in a crash. I'd rather have a tower break than a chassis bend, shock shaft bend, etc
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Old 10-02-2016, 11:21 AM   #3532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
on that site does the (D) after the name denote that the setup is from a B6D base?
Yes, D is to help differentiate the two car.
All between brackets are some indentificators: D for the dirt version of the B6, 13.5 means motor is a 13.5, and so on.
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Old 10-02-2016, 05:31 PM   #3533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finalist View Post
You've seen lots of people using the Al vrp towers? Are those people finding that instead of the towers breaking that other parts are bending or breaking? Something has to give in a crash. I'd rather have a tower break than a chassis bend, shock shaft bend, etc
Something is definitely going to give. Shock caps, gearboxes, on a hard enough hit mind you. I remember when I was running a B44 (OG car), ran the aluminum tower mounts and went through rear towers weekly. Put the plastic part back on, and they didn't break as often. Someone should make a 4mm rear tower out of good carbon fibre. Mine are still fine, but that rear tower seems pretty weak.
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Old 10-02-2016, 08:02 PM   #3534
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Old 10-02-2016, 08:57 PM   #3535
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just a few build questions as my kit is in transit..

did you tap the screw holes in the parts or just screw in?
is green goop totally necessary to build the shocks?
will the TLR22 alu servo horn work?
any other tips on building? i havent built a kit in over 20 years.lol

any other things i should consider upgrading while building like pistons/springs for a small high bite indoor carpet track?
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Old 10-02-2016, 09:49 PM   #3536
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Hi Lunchie, I didn't find it necessary to tap any of the screw holes- screwing everything in cut the threads without a problem. The manual points out spots where it is important not to over-tighten. Perhaps the ball cups would be the most best place to pre-tap if you wanted to, but I found that by greasing the turnbuckle threads (another suggestion from the manual) they also cut their own threads easily.

I used green slime because I had some. It doesn't cost much, so I think it is worth doing.

You'll need metric hex drivers for this kit, an obvious change from 20 years ago. And wheels and tires don't come in the kit. I avoided cutting a hole for the antenna tube by bending it into an arch from one side of the car to the other, using both mounting holes.

I found Tony Phalen's build guide helpful for building my B6D. I found this similar guide for the B6D by Joe Navarro.
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Old 10-02-2016, 09:50 PM   #3537
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...

Last edited by mushroomed; 10-02-2016 at 09:52 PM. Reason: double post
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Old 10-03-2016, 04:05 AM   #3538
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My B6D latemodel project(yellow body) with my old project DEX 210 latemodel(white body).
You can say the B6D was an upgrade and replacement from the B4.1 latemodel.
I dunno what I'll replace the DEX 210 with.
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Old 10-03-2016, 05:15 AM   #3539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lunchie View Post
just a few build questions as my kit is in transit..

did you tap the screw holes in the parts or just screw in? Not necessary
is green goop totally necessary to build the shocks?Not necessary but helpful
will the TLR22 alu servo horn work? Yes and no...depends on the Servo and shims
any other tips on building? i havent built a kit in over 20 years.lol

any other things i should consider upgrading while building like pistons/springs for a small high bite indoor carpet track?Get the brass front bulkhead and brass Lipo weights
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Old 10-03-2016, 03:42 PM   #3540
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My track is going from 17.5T+boost allowed to two separate classes, 17.5 stock and mod. I'm thinking about buying another car and running both classes. Would you set them up the same as far as weights, oils, springs etc? Or would you run a light car for stock and a weighted one for mod? I understand lighter is best for stock, but will switching between the two screw up my driving enough to matter? Running on Astro for what it's worth.

Right now I'm thinking I should just build two cars with the same exact setup and different motors.
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