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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-30-2016, 11:03 AM   #3511
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on that site does the (D) after the name denote that the setup is from a B6D base?
I was going to try his but he is using a different rear tower...
I have seen all of those and some are so different looking for a baseline without having to buy more upgrades lol
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Old 09-30-2016, 11:05 AM   #3512
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I was going to try his but he is using a different rear tower...
I have seen all of those and some are so different looking for a baseline without having to buy more upgrades lol
Most of the dirt setups are utilizing the longer rear tower/shocks. I hated my car with the stock tower/short rear shocks.
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Old 09-30-2016, 11:07 AM   #3513
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[QUOTE=Matt Trimmings;14688172]Most of the dirt setups are utilizing the longer rear tower/shocks. I hated my car with the stock tower/short rear shocks.[/QUO

Even on clay?
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Old 09-30-2016, 11:10 AM   #3514
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Even on clay?
I didnt try the short tower on clay..only outdoors. When I ran at ocrc last I used the tall tower and my car was great. I have no desire to try the short tower unless I run carpet or similar high bite surface
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Old 09-30-2016, 01:13 PM   #3515
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Everything I've heard is that there isn't really a downside to running the longer tower and shock bodies on a dirt/clay track whether it be indoor or outdoor. I haven't tried it myself, but I just got the Schelle rear tower and have some 31mm shock bodies on the way.
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Old 09-30-2016, 01:36 PM   #3516
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I want to buy the Schelle rear tower but I dont like that its 3.5mm (stock) thickness, and the most expensive . I think Im going Xfactory tall instead.
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Old 09-30-2016, 01:37 PM   #3517
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I want to buy the Schelle rear tower but I dont like that its 3.5mm (stock) thickness, and the most expensive . I think Im going Xfactory tall instead.
It is high quality carbon...I have had zero issues with mine.
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Old 09-30-2016, 01:38 PM   #3518
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I like the fact that you use short eyelets and it keeps the cg lower than the standard tall tower while still using the long shock bodies. Stock thickness has been fine for me.
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:02 PM   #3519
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which vrp is considered the tall tower replacement? I think I'm seeing the option +2 but I think that changes the wing position and do you use the same springs with the long rear shock body and tower as you would with the stock parts?

thanks
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Old 10-01-2016, 05:07 AM   #3520
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which vrp is considered the tall tower replacement? I think I'm seeing the option +2 but I think that changes the wing position and do you use the same springs with the long rear shock body and tower as you would with the stock parts?

thanks
It moves the wing mount up by 2mm as well to put the wing in cleaner air. You'll use the same springs on the longer shock bodies.
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Last edited by boucher; 10-01-2016 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 10-01-2016, 07:37 AM   #3521
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...

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Old 10-01-2016, 12:04 PM   #3522
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Need a honest opinion. looking to get a 2 wheel buggy. i can get a B5M or a B6. but want to know what is the difference in the B6 and the B6D will be running on Damp indoor clay. is the a a big difference in the B5M and any of the B6
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Old 10-01-2016, 12:24 PM   #3523
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Not really.... Don't get me wrong they are different cars, but in the hands of a mortal either will be just as competitive.

I recently built a B6D for shits and giggles and it is a nice car, but i decided to stick with the 5.

The only downside to the 5 will be parts availability in the long term and if all the guys at your track are on the 6 their setups may not translate to the 5.
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Old 10-01-2016, 12:29 PM   #3524
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When using the 31mm shock body and tall tower, do you use the short or long eyelet?
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Old 10-01-2016, 12:34 PM   #3525
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To answer your question, the real difference between the B6 and B6d is the starting setup. They're the same car with interchangeable parts. The B6 is more of a high grip starting point (comes with laydown gearbox, gear differential, gullwing front arms/tower), while the B6d is more for medium to low grip (standup 3-gear transmission, ball differential, and flat front arms/tower). What a lot of people are doing is getting the B6d and getting the laydown transmission for it -$27.20 on AE's website. The B6/B6d is much more tunable and adaptable to different conditions and types of racing than the B5m was. Plus, since it's the newest model, you won't have to worry about parts not being available.
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