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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-25-2016, 08:17 PM   #3421
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I ran the heck out of it and its fine.. I've checked both towers.. Its more of a piece of mind for me too, but oh well. Buggy is awesome on the turf.
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Old 09-26-2016, 08:30 AM   #3422
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Looks like a castle 1410 four pole short course motor to me. That would explain the high amp draw. A more suitable motor will allow much better runtime. I would get something in the 6.5 to 7.5 range in two pole. With a motor like this a 5000 mah shorty will easily make run time and then some.
On second look it looks like the 4600 kv castle motor.
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:01 AM   #3423
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Anyone running the MIP Topshaft? Need to know how it compares to the stock one?
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:09 AM   #3424
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Anyone running the MIP Topshaft? Need to know how it compares to the stock one?
I put one in about 2 weeks ago. It's a nice piece, a few grams lighter than stock, and the gear surface has been narrowed about 30 percent. It was the same width as the cut gears I got from RC Speed Secrets. I was surprised by the aluminum locknut - about 1.5 grams lighter than the steel one.

For the price, why not try it?

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Old 09-26-2016, 10:37 AM   #3425
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Anyone running the MIP Topshaft? Need to know how it compares to the stock one?
I got some coming to go with cut gears in both my standup and laydown transmissions. USPS just decided to send it from CA to NY and now back to CA.
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:25 AM   #3426
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I got some coming to go with cut gears in both my standup and laydown transmissions. USPS just decided to send it from CA to NY and now back to CA.
Gotta love 'em. Had a part go to 3 different cities all in Socal, before it made its way to me from Schelle Racing in Costa Mesa to Fullerton, maybe a 20 mile trip at most, part went probably 200 miles back and fourth and took 4 days.
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Old 09-26-2016, 02:30 PM   #3427
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got my b6d in and it has the MIP system, my question is how should the hub bearings feel? Reason I ask is they feel really gritty so not sure if something needs to be loosened, etc.

Update: Found the issue, loosened the hexes and freed right up, clamped them back down and it was fine so may pressed to close to the hubs.
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Old 09-26-2016, 03:08 PM   #3428
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Following this thread.
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Old 09-26-2016, 03:42 PM   #3429
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This is for the b6.
Wanting to buy one.and was talking to a guy that has one.he is telling me that I need to purchase a bunch of aluminum pcs and weight.do I need to do this?I would be running mod motor.
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Old 09-26-2016, 04:36 PM   #3430
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Need a little more info like what surface you are going to run on. B6 carpet and turf. B6D dirt and clay. No you do not have to have all the aluminum parts to run it in mod.
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Old 09-26-2016, 07:36 PM   #3431
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sport10: Looking to run carpet here with a b6D with laydown, it came with both types of brass C mounts and an aluminum D-mount. suggestions?
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:06 PM   #3432
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You will want to keep the weight forward because you will probably have too much traction and might have problems with traction rolling. I would go plus 3 in the rear and plus 2 in the front and run a lowered ride height like 18mm. Rear shocks on front of tower and arm with short eyelets. No to the brass c mount but the aluminum D is a nice upgrade over the stock plastic piece. Setup as close to the b6 standard setup as possible for carpet.
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:49 PM   #3433
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sport10: Looking to run carpet here with a b6D with laydown, it came with both types of brass C mounts and an aluminum D-mount. suggestions?
I thought somewhere you said it was ozite with sauced primes/slicks? Maybe i am wrong,
for that i would leave the brass and keep the shocks on the rear until you run it.
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:25 AM   #3434
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Good point not all carpet is the same in traction. All I was saying is the standard setup for the b6 might be a better starting setup for carpet. I would use the lighter of the two brass c mount first though. It all going to come down to how much traction you have.
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:40 AM   #3435
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thanks for the responses!

it is a mix of ozite and something else that feels like it has even more traction. we do run slicks in clay compound sauced as we are not allowed to use carpet style pin rears. However there is a guy who uses ifmar pins in reds with success.

Here is a vid of one of the races from earlier in the year, my vehicle the black and white one:

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


For an idea on traction level, running the durango DEX210F in its default carpet configuration (shock on rear of tower) the car was on fire with sauced worn proline mc "slicks" (worn down suburbs).

I plan to try a tire setup similar to what someone else was running (slick rears, shcumacher carpet tire up front ) and if that doesn't work go back to the other setup.



sport10: If you have any setup advise onyour DESC410V2 feel free to shoot me a pm on that I'll be running one of those too
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Last edited by Cain; 09-27-2016 at 09:50 AM.
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