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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-24-2016, 07:38 PM   #3406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
alright I got one of these on the way with a variety of upgrades based on the listing and pics.

This will be a vehicle used on carpet and I think the previous owner was using it on something high traction as he has the hard arms on the car and has a laydown transmission as well included.

At the moment right now, what would be considered one of the better carpet setups to look at, even, better, if its a b6d laydown setup?

Once it arrives will give it the usual run through, but I know it has the MIP puck system including the stock ball diff, the track has decided however to go back to mod apparently. Is there a limit to where the MIP pucks can safely be ran motor wise? I am looking at most an 8.5 motor, but may go to something like a 10.5 or 13.5 since its small.

And if I go ball diff, I am assuming no funny issues on carpet, just that gear is more consistent?

Lastly, if using the slipper setup on carpet with something like mckune or rcshox style pads, anyone compare how they feel in comparison to a slipper eliminator?

thanks before hand for all your help.
I would copy the B6 stock setup as close as possible for carpet. The gear diff also lives much better on carpet than a ball diff. The only difference is gear diff and gullwing arms and tower since you already have the laydown tranny.
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Old 09-24-2016, 09:32 PM   #3407
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Originally Posted by sport10 View Post
Will they not let you fun a horizontal shorty battery.
They will but a stick pack has a higher capacity then a shorty, that's why I dont like shorties until the technology improves and they can hold at least 6500mah. I have to have that minimum
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Old 09-24-2016, 09:44 PM   #3408
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Default Pistons

A lot of alternative Pistons coming out of the woodwork. Gimmick?

Anyone try the VRP pistons? Look interesting and wondering if they function as advertised
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Old 09-25-2016, 06:15 AM   #3409
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I would copy the B6 stock setup as close as possible for carpet. The gear diff also lives much better on carpet than a ball diff. The only difference is gear diff and gullwing arms and tower since you already have the laydown tranny.
Good stuff. I'll keep that in mind and pick up one as an option.

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They will but a stick pack has a higher capacity then a shorty, that's why I dont like shorties until the technology improves and they can hold at least 6500mah. I have to have that minimum
hmm, wonder if they could squeeze anymore into a square lipo assuming that would fit, the nano-techs are up to 6200mah from my battery reviews for a desc410.
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Old 09-25-2016, 07:27 AM   #3410
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Anyone try the BMI Vari-flow CNC machined pistons?


The have them in 2 types: 2 x 1.7mm and 2 x 1.8mm
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Old 09-25-2016, 09:10 AM   #3411
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Originally Posted by bmag5000 View Post
They will but a stick pack has a higher capacity then a shorty, that's why I dont like shorties until the technology improves and they can hold at least 6500mah. I have to have that minimum
Are you running a 5.5 motor or a 6.5 motor? I'd try a little less timing and see if that gets you some more run time.
I'd also check for bad bearings in the tranny and wheel bearings.
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Old 09-25-2016, 01:30 PM   #3412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie_E View Post
Are you running a 5.5 motor or a 6.5 motor? I'd try a little less timing and see if that gets you some more run time.
I'd also check for bad bearings in the tranny and wheel bearings.
Looks like a castle 1410 four pole short course motor to me. That would explain the high amp draw. A more suitable motor will allow much better runtime. I would get something in the 6.5 to 7.5 range in two pole. With a motor like this a 5000 mah shorty will easily make run time and then some.
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Old 09-25-2016, 03:00 PM   #3413
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That moment when you ran your b6 for the first time, love it... then realize you didn't sand and glue the shock towers... sigh
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Old 09-25-2016, 03:55 PM   #3414
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I didnt glue mine yet either...what happened, are they delaminating or did it just break completely?
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Old 09-25-2016, 04:15 PM   #3415
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Default Horizontal stress

The other day, my local track did an outdoor race at an RC Airshow at a small airport. They rolled out the turf, put down some plastic jumps and tubing to create the track. This was laid over pavement. So, I ran my freshly built B6 during warmups and I had to call it quits when the screws on the bottom that hold everything in the rear in all backed out. Guy there said it was caused by the horizontal stress. The track was so grippy, there was almost no sliding at all.

My question is, how would I prevent this? Keep in mind everything is stock so far. I got the aluminum d mount and a chassis protector. Haven't had time to rebuild yet.

Thanks
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Old 09-25-2016, 04:17 PM   #3416
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Touch of CA in plastics or blue thread lock on metal to metal.
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Old 09-25-2016, 05:02 PM   #3417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronisonce View Post
That moment when you ran your b6 for the first time, love it... then realize you didn't sand and glue the shock towers... sigh
Not sure why everyone is so worried about sanding and gluing the CF parts. It's not needed, the CF stuff now is really good quality. Cheap CF can delam but the quality stuff doesn'. I've been running Schumacher off road cars for 3 years and I have never had a issue with any CF parts. I've never sanded and sealed any of the parts and to date, I have never had a piece of CF break, crack, or delam.
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Old 09-25-2016, 06:11 PM   #3418
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Originally Posted by Riverbluff View Post
Not sure why everyone is so worried about sanding and gluing the CF parts. It's not needed, the CF stuff now is really good quality. Cheap CF can delam but the quality stuff doesn'. I've been running Schumacher off road cars for 3 years and I have never had a issue with any CF parts. I've never sanded and sealed any of the parts and to date, I have never had a piece of CF break, crack, or delam.
What ^ guy said.... Also knocking on wood.
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Old 09-25-2016, 07:01 PM   #3419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riverbluff View Post
Not sure why everyone is so worried about sanding and gluing the CF parts. It's not needed, the CF stuff now is really good quality. Cheap CF can delam but the quality stuff doesn'. I've been running Schumacher off road cars for 3 years and I have never had a issue with any CF parts. I've never sanded and sealed any of the parts and to date, I have never had a piece of CF break, crack, or delam.
I sand the edges but don't glue I have yet to break a tower!!!
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Old 09-25-2016, 07:09 PM   #3420
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Gluing it isn't going to hurt, its piece of mind if anything.
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