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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-23-2016, 03:00 AM   #3376
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Originally Posted by shdwboxn View Post
correct
What is the advantage in directly soldering to the esc bullet connectors versus just plugging it to the receiver?
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Old 09-23-2016, 06:21 AM   #3377
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Solder the fan directly to the pos/neg on the ESC for a cleaner look.. It also will cool your motor down while you are corner marshaling and a friendly reminder that your battery is still plugged in.
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Old 09-23-2016, 06:34 AM   #3378
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alright I got one of these on the way with a variety of upgrades based on the listing and pics.

This will be a vehicle used on carpet and I think the previous owner was using it on something high traction as he has the hard arms on the car and has a laydown transmission as well included.

At the moment right now, what would be considered one of the better carpet setups to look at, even, better, if its a b6d laydown setup?

Once it arrives will give it the usual run through, but I know it has the MIP puck system including the stock ball diff, the track has decided however to go back to mod apparently. Is there a limit to where the MIP pucks can safely be ran motor wise? I am looking at most an 8.5 motor, but may go to something like a 10.5 or 13.5 since its small.

And if I go ball diff, I am assuming no funny issues on carpet, just that gear is more consistent?

Lastly, if using the slipper setup on carpet with something like mckune or rcshox style pads, anyone compare how they feel in comparison to a slipper eliminator?

thanks before hand for all your help.
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:35 AM   #3379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
What is the advantage in directly soldering to the esc bullet connectors versus just plugging it to the receiver?
If you have an 8.4v fan you'll get the most out of it from soldering directly to the +/- on the esc. Otherwise if you just go through the receiver I think it's only 5v. The only downside (if you want to call it that) of hard wiring to the esc is that it will run as soon as you plug your battery in.
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:57 AM   #3380
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If you have a fan that is only designed for say...6v and you connect it to the battery its going to go really fast for a few seconds and then never work again. Make sure your fan is made for 8.4v
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Old 09-23-2016, 10:05 AM   #3381
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How can i get +1 on the front spindle height? Something about b5 bushings? I assume im using a stock b5 bottom,but not sure about top??
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Old 09-23-2016, 10:13 AM   #3382
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Originally Posted by onefast8 View Post
How can i get +1 on the front spindle height? Something about b5 bushings? I assume im using a stock b5 bottom,but not sure about top??
You can purchase the kit for the spindle bushings. It comes with all the sizes.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91676/p507417
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Old 09-23-2016, 11:27 AM   #3383
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So pretty (RDRP carbon fiber battery plate):

http://www.redrc.net/2016/09/rdrp-b6...battery-plate/
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Old 09-23-2016, 12:35 PM   #3384
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
So pretty (RDRP carbon fiber battery plate):

http://www.redrc.net/2016/09/rdrp-b6...battery-plate/
Very interesting chassis weight

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Old 09-23-2016, 12:58 PM   #3385
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Just a carbon plate in place of where the weight plates go. I'd guess so he can mount his esc and receiver on it and remove them without having to retape.
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Old 09-23-2016, 01:16 PM   #3386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boucher View Post
Just a carbon plate in place of where the weight plates go. I'd guess so he can mount his esc and receiver on it and remove them without having to retape.
That's the new lightweight chassis weight. It lets you weigh your chassis down without being hampered by all the excess weight that brass and steel weights provide.
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Old 09-23-2016, 01:21 PM   #3387
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http://www.revolution-rc.com/our-pro...-hardware.html

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Old 09-23-2016, 07:51 PM   #3388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronisonce View Post
Has anyone used the Shapeway b6 Fan mount ?
Got mine in the mail.

Haven't run it yet, waiting for a new track to open soon...

Quality 7/10 - Looks pretty sketch thin around the captured joint. Who knows maybe its fine.

Fit 7/10 With the battery post in forward hole your basically left with the back 2 holes on the brace. Hole 2 is a tight fit (twss), and rubs brace. Hole 1 forces battery full forward.

Team Associated B6 &amp; B6D thread-image2.jpg Team Associated B6 &amp; B6D thread-image1.jpg
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Old 09-23-2016, 10:24 PM   #3389
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Quote:
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So pretty (RDRP carbon fiber battery plate):

http://www.redrc.net/2016/09/rdrp-b6...battery-plate/
now that's just badass. i'd order one right now, but it doesn't seem to be avail. by the time it is, i will have forgotten about it and will have moved on...
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Old 09-24-2016, 07:45 AM   #3390
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I bought one of these B6D kits at the beginning of the month the build went together flawlessly. Such a good value for your money the stuff they give you in this kit.
With the changes they made from the B5m, you can tell this is a brand new platform.
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