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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-21-2016, 08:54 PM   #3346
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Top reason to run Ti screws..

1) You're prepping for the Stock Nationals and can actually make the A main.
2) You're prepping for the Stock Nationals and think you can benefit from Ti screws.
3) You're like most people and like shiny bling parts that don't make you faster but look cool.

Most people fall under #2 and #3. Those who fall under #1 are immortal, get them for FREE, and are likely PAID to run them.......
On a titanium note, I just bought titanium front axles. Not because I wanted them but the aluminum screw part of the axles sheared off as I was tightening my wheel nut (I wasn't cranking it either). I couldn't find steel hex replacements, the B5 series are too short, so I went Ti B6ssince it should be a bit stronger than Ti.

Anyone else break the front axle screw?
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Old 09-22-2016, 09:09 AM   #3347
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Do they make an through axle with clamp on hexes like they did with the b5 series.
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Old 09-22-2016, 09:09 AM   #3348
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Do they make an through axle with clamp on hexes like they did with the b5 series.
No they don't
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Old 09-22-2016, 10:54 AM   #3349
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:15 AM   #3350
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Am I missing something here? Looks like everything is installed and lined up perfectly but the steering link hits the bellcrank when going to the right?
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Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-0-15-.jpg   Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-0-14-.jpg   Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-0-13-.jpg  
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:17 AM   #3351
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put correct alum horn on it and itll be fine.
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:27 AM   #3352
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Am I missing something here? Looks like everything is installed and lined up perfectly but the steering link hits the bellcrank when going to the right?
Use the Futaba horn included with the kit.
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:31 AM   #3353
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Just finished the B6D kit and I gotta say AE put together a nice kit here... The manual is a bit screwey bit all in all it goes together really well.

And those ball links are spot on smooooooooth. Somebody at AE went to school on those and got an A+....

I am going to continue with my B5M lite as it only has one run, is dialed, and I have a bunch of parts for it.

Last edited by Matt Trimmings; 09-22-2016 at 11:32 AM. Reason: selling
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:34 AM   #3354
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put correct alum horn on it and itll be fine.
the plastic horn it comes with is even worse.
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:36 AM   #3355
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the plastic horn it comes with is even worse.
How far forward do you have the servo spaced? Have you tried installing the top plate? It may flex back to allow enough clearance. What servo is that? It 'looks' tall...maybe too tall?

You are referring to picture 2 where the bellcrank hits the horn right?
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:37 AM   #3356
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
How far forward do you have the servo spaced? Have you tried installing the top plate? It may flex back to allow enough clearance. What servo is that? It 'looks' tall...maybe too tall?
i am using 1 mm spacer, have not installed top plate. its a savox 1257
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:37 AM   #3357
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Are those 4wd fronts? they have 5 rows of ribs
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:45 AM   #3358
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i am using 1 mm spacer, have not installed top plate. its a savox 1257

Ahh with the 1257 I didn't use the spacer.... 1258 I do.

I would remove the spacer and see if that works. If not shave down the horn and call it a day.
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:55 AM   #3359
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Ahh with the 1257 I didn't use the spacer.... 1258 I do.

I would remove the spacer and see if that works. If not shave down the horn and call it a day.
yeah, that is better. Still hits with no spacer but I can go with 1mm instead of the 2mm on the spacer at the horn and that should clear it. Thx btw!
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Old 09-22-2016, 12:27 PM   #3360
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Am I missing something here? Looks like everything is installed and lined up perfectly but the steering link hits the bellcrank when going to the right?
It may be your avatar...
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