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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-13-2016, 01:13 AM   #3181
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The idler gear goes out the quickest and that gets replaced most often. As far as the outdrives and dogbones, I replace them once I develop little more than about 1/16 turn of slop. They aren't that expensive, but worn dogbones/ outdrives will cause the suspension to bind up and have ill effects on your handling. Obviously factors such as motor and driving and the surface will dictate how quickly that happens. Also be mindful of the shock bushings and try to keep those from becoming sloppy.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:29 AM   #3182
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I am wondering if Associated will come out with a B6 Factory Team kit. I hope they are so I will buy one (or two) during the Xmas time :-)

Any ideas?

thanks
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:31 AM   #3183
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Originally Posted by lynx75 View Post
I am wondering if Associated will come out with a B6 Factory Team kit. I hope they are so I will buy one (or two) during the Xmas time :-)

Any ideas?

thanks
No chance. You might as well buy as soon as you are ready moneywise.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:31 AM   #3184
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Originally Posted by lynx75 View Post
I am wondering if Associated will come out with a B6 Factory Team kit. I hope they are so I will buy one (or two) during the Xmas time :-)

Any ideas?

thanks
doubtful. they never came out with a factory team B5. plus the B6 already comes nicely equipped.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:42 AM   #3185
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Originally Posted by lynx75 View Post
I am wondering if Associated will come out with a B6 Factory Team kit. I hope they are so I will buy one (or two) during the Xmas time :-)
The car as it comes right now only really needs one thing...the aluminum D mount. Everything else is just for looks imo. Don't bet on a factory team car....especially as quick as the xmas time frame.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:48 AM   #3186
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My son's B6d 17.5 car all ready for practice.

Last edited by derbrylac; 09-14-2016 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:51 AM   #3187
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Originally Posted by microjam View Post
So B6D + laydown, everyone is getting the brass D Mount (12g I'm guessing)?

What would be the next obvious parts to buy for mostly clay tracks, or watered down dirt? I'm running stock so will probably get a slipper eliminator when my driving gets better..

What about the rear hex screws?

Is there anything else besides rear shock tower that needs to be beefed up for reliability/performance?
Since you are starting your build I would go with titanium screws. Not necessary, but would shave off some weight which then you can distribute to other parts of your car where its needed.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:53 AM   #3188
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What exact problem ya seeing? I run mod with all gears in , and 17.5 with only 2. No issues what so ever. I run on carpet and turf.
after some battery diff no longer works as it should ... in my group we are 5 with the same problem ... we noticed that the shim much bigger tends to curve perhaps for warmth .... result does not diff constant ... we tried everything, but no positive results ... if I use ball diff I have some problem on astro carpet?
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:54 AM   #3189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microjam View Post
So B6D + laydown, everyone is getting the brass D Mount (12g I'm guessing)?

What would be the next obvious parts to buy for mostly clay tracks, or watered down dirt? I'm running stock so will probably get a slipper eliminator when my driving gets better..

What about the rear hex screws?

Is there anything else besides rear shock tower that needs to be beefed up for reliability/performance?
Like Matt said, the Alum d-block for extra tuning. The shock towers? I dont like the kit ones. But I am unsure which aftermarket are better. I am still running through my AE spares. Once they are gone, I might give the factoryrc ones a try. I used them on my bmaxx4 and they seemed decent. If you are running indoor clay 17.5, the pucks are pretty good at adding steering, imo. Out doors on loamy dirt, the maintenance might be a bit high. And you might want the extra bone bind of the kit outdrives/bones. Otherwise, add weight as needed, the car comes pretty light.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:56 AM   #3190
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Originally Posted by derbrylac View Post
My son's B6d 17.5 car all ready for practice.
Where do you race in AZ?
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:12 AM   #3191
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How did you guys wire your cars up? I think my wiring is decent but I feel like it could be cleaner.
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:14 AM   #3192
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Where do you race in AZ?
Where is everyone racing now? I look at liverc and there is literally no one left, in buggy anyway.
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:15 AM   #3193
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How did you guys wire your cars up? I think my wiring is decent but I feel like it could be cleaner.
Flip your esc, shorten the wires and buy a flat sensor wire to run under the battery.
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:17 AM   #3194
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We used to run at W3 years ago, hobbytown/srs is close to us.
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Old 09-13-2016, 11:52 AM   #3195
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Jconcepts has a nice looking prototype front and rear towers ans battery hold down that I saw this past weekend at the JC Turf Nationals at Rc Madness. Look really nice. dunno why the towers are breaking. Have not seen this issue yet
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