649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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08-25-2016, 11:25 AM
#2822
Thanks for the help. Will try to turn a little more
3 gear lay down. Brass C mount AE front bulk head Gray front 32.5 oil 2x1.6 green rear 30wt oil green spring 2x1.7. Schelle rear hubs 22mm front and back ride. -1 camber front and rear. Clay track with proline electrons
Real close to Kurt's set up from Schelle
Thanks
3 gear lay down. Brass C mount AE front bulk head Gray front 32.5 oil 2x1.6 green rear 30wt oil green spring 2x1.7. Schelle rear hubs 22mm front and back ride. -1 camber front and rear. Clay track with proline electrons
Real close to Kurt's set up from Schelle
Thanks
08-25-2016, 12:20 PM
#2824
Really chaps
I must be missing something what is this puk all about
If they really are soooo much better why isn't cragg cavileri rivkin running them.
Or Is its a slow stock racing thing
Can some one explain this
Cheers
I must be missing something what is this puk all about
If they really are soooo much better why isn't cragg cavileri rivkin running them.
Or Is its a slow stock racing thing
Can some one explain this
Cheers
08-25-2016, 02:57 PM
#2831
08-25-2016, 03:21 PM
#2832
Awesome
Keep up the good work
I think us lot here in the uk will stick with 7.5/6.5 or 5.5 if your brave
And not bother with all that messing around with puks or direct drive etc 👍👍👍👍
Keep up the good work
I think us lot here in the uk will stick with 7.5/6.5 or 5.5 if your brave
And not bother with all that messing around with puks or direct drive etc 👍👍👍👍
08-25-2016, 03:55 PM
#2833
Tech Initiate
I have a Trackstar TS-915, Futaba spline specs, but the B6D kit servo horn is too small. I know there are aftermarket servos, but is there a workaround for this without buying a different one? Shouldn't TA send a free part to fix this?
08-25-2016, 04:02 PM
#2834
Tech Regular
The plastic kit servo horns fit tight. Use the screw to pull it down on the splines.
