649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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08-25-2016, 06:58 AM
#2807
If you are not on top of changing inserts it can ruin the outdrives very fast. Personally, I ran the pucks for a while in my b5m and one day swapped in the stock parts and had the exact same lap times...I am not a fan of the pucks and they will not be making their way into my car.
08-25-2016, 07:10 AM
#2808
08-25-2016, 08:45 AM
#2809
Tech Initiate
Besides what's in the B6D kit, which oils and grease do I need to buy for build and racing? Is anyone using Utter Butter?
I don't mind spending a little extra for rebranded RC hobby stuff because I'm not likely to use all the bulk automotive stuff and I like that the hobby oils/grease come in little applicators, I just don't know which ones are good value...
I don't mind spending a little extra for rebranded RC hobby stuff because I'm not likely to use all the bulk automotive stuff and I like that the hobby oils/grease come in little applicators, I just don't know which ones are good value...
08-25-2016, 08:49 AM
#2811
Tech Regular
Only thing I'd really recommend is some green slime (#1105). You'll get enough diff lube and grease in the kit to rebuild your diffs a couple times. I guess you could pick up some different shock oils too.
08-25-2016, 09:37 AM
#2812
not true. it really depends on your surface. for indoor wet clay I only work on the pucks twice a year. if you are on a dust dirty surface. the new roller pucks might be good. we grease the plastic pucks, and dust can mix in with the grease and require more cleaning and such
08-25-2016, 09:44 AM
#2813
Moral of the story, if you grease the plastic pucks and that grease gets contaminated with foreign debris it will require you to clean and re-grease them in order for them to last longer than if you left them alone.
08-25-2016, 09:49 AM
#2814
Wildcat1971, I think this part of your statement validated his point.
Moral of the story, if you grease the plastic pucks and that grease gets contaminated with foreign debris it will require you to clean and re-grease them in order for them to last longer than if you left them alone.
Moral of the story, if you grease the plastic pucks and that grease gets contaminated with foreign debris it will require you to clean and re-grease them in order for them to last longer than if you left them alone.
my personal laptime are .5 second faster with pucks. because the car corners better and faster
08-25-2016, 09:54 AM
#2815
Keep in mind that pucks will free up the rear of the car...both due to the less weight over the rear end and the less bone bind. If you run on a high bite track (like Wildcat) this could be a benefit...if you run on a low bite track throwing a bunch of lightweight parts in your driveline will probably make the car worse.
08-25-2016, 10:31 AM
#2818
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
- add weight to front or remove weight from rear
- reduce front roll center
- play with suspension, maybe your rear is too soft or front is too stiff
- what is your camber set at and camber gain?
- increase rear droop
- 3 gear or 4 gear tranny? laydown or stand up? laydown will reduce a push
i was on board with you until you said turn wheel more. turning the wheel more when your car is pushing wont solve the problem. if your going to be smart, at least be intelligent.
08-25-2016, 10:40 AM
#2819
need more info like are you pushing on power or off power? entry mid or exit? but generally you could try things like:
- add weight to front or remove weight from rear
- reduce front roll center
- play with suspension, maybe your rear is too soft or front is too stiff
- what is your camber set at and camber gain?
- increase rear droop
- 3 gear or 4 gear tranny? laydown or stand up? laydown will reduce a push
i was on board with you until you said turn wheel more. turning the wheel more when your car is pushing wont solve the problem. if your going to be smart, at least be intelligent.
- add weight to front or remove weight from rear
- reduce front roll center
- play with suspension, maybe your rear is too soft or front is too stiff
- what is your camber set at and camber gain?
- increase rear droop
- 3 gear or 4 gear tranny? laydown or stand up? laydown will reduce a push
i was on board with you until you said turn wheel more. turning the wheel more when your car is pushing wont solve the problem. if your going to be smart, at least be intelligent.
3 gear lay down. Brass C mount AE front bulk head Gray front 32.5 oil 2x1.6 green rear 30wt oil green spring 2x1.7. Schelle rear hubs 22mm front and back ride. -1 camber front and rear. Clay track with proline electrons
Real close to Kurt's set up from Schelle
Thanks
08-25-2016, 10:41 AM
#2820
do i need to buy rims is so what one fit will the b 5 one still work