649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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08-23-2016, 01:17 PM
#2776
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
This is getting old.
This thread isn't the place to look to buy, and it's not the place to offer to sell. Whether it's parts pieces or entire cars.. Sounds harsh but if we allow it this will be nothing but a sales thread.
Thank you.
This thread isn't the place to look to buy, and it's not the place to offer to sell. Whether it's parts pieces or entire cars.. Sounds harsh but if we allow it this will be nothing but a sales thread.
Thank you.
08-23-2016, 01:24 PM
#2778
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
.........
08-23-2016, 04:43 PM
#2783
Tech Initiate
Anyway, all the adjustments helped and I had no issues clearing all the doubles on a fresh pack today (norcal hobbies).
Current set up had the motor (17.5 reedy m3) clocking in around 110 deg. Next time I get a chance I'd like to try increasing timing a few more degrees or try a different pinion (using 31 right now).
08-23-2016, 04:57 PM
#2784
Tightened down my slipper a little more (about 3-4 threads visible), increased timing from 20 to 30, and also tightened up my ball diff. Someone noticed by sound that my diff was too loose, I kept thinking it was the slipper!
Anyway, all the adjustments helped and I had no issues clearing all the doubles on a fresh pack today (norcal hobbies).
Current set up had the motor (17.5 reedy m3) clocking in around 110 deg. Next time I get a chance I'd like to try increasing timing a few more degrees or try a different pinion (using 31 right now).
Anyway, all the adjustments helped and I had no issues clearing all the doubles on a fresh pack today (norcal hobbies).
Current set up had the motor (17.5 reedy m3) clocking in around 110 deg. Next time I get a chance I'd like to try increasing timing a few more degrees or try a different pinion (using 31 right now).
08-23-2016, 08:06 PM
#2785
Tightened down my slipper a little more (about 3-4 threads visible), increased timing from 20 to 30, and also tightened up my ball diff. Someone noticed by sound that my diff was too loose, I kept thinking it was the slipper!
Anyway, all the adjustments helped and I had no issues clearing all the doubles on a fresh pack today (norcal hobbies).
Current set up had the motor (17.5 reedy m3) clocking in around 110 deg. Next time I get a chance I'd like to try increasing timing a few more degrees or try a different pinion (using 31 right now).
Anyway, all the adjustments helped and I had no issues clearing all the doubles on a fresh pack today (norcal hobbies).
Current set up had the motor (17.5 reedy m3) clocking in around 110 deg. Next time I get a chance I'd like to try increasing timing a few more degrees or try a different pinion (using 31 right now).
08-24-2016, 09:55 AM
#2786
Tower has in stock the #1366 25T Futaba fitting servo horn if anyone is waiting for this. I just hope it slips on nice, I hate the badly made spline teeth ones that you have to hammer on and pry off with the screwdriver.
08-24-2016, 10:12 AM
#2788
I don't like any of Associated's plastic 1/10 scale servo horns in the kit. They never fit on the Futaba at least. You can see the servo spline teeth cutting into the horribly made molds. Just never felt sure it was gonna fit right.
08-24-2016, 10:32 AM
#2789
I had a really hard time getting the plastic Associated horn on my Protek servo. I had to use a combination of tapping it on and using the screw to pull it down. On my 2nd car I just dremeled the last hole off of my Racers Edge one so it would clear the upper plate, and so I didn't have to mess with the Associated one.
Last edited by jmcelroy42; 08-24-2016 at 10:55 AM.
