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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-19-2016, 08:58 PM   #2716
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Was trying to avoid hopupitis this time around but failed. Scheme front and rear towers and an Avid slipper eliminator. Unfortunately i won't get to to test this weekend though. Really think the rear tower with the longer shocks might help what seems to be the only place i was looking for help, chassis slap if i don't downside a jump. The front tower is cool though with the mount.
At least its not really just bling.
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Old 08-19-2016, 09:37 PM   #2717
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Dont know if the parts you ordered will give you more pack, but pack is what you're looking for.
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Old 08-19-2016, 09:42 PM   #2718
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Dont know if the parts you ordered will give you more pack, but pack is what you're looking for.
3x1.4 would do that as well correct? Im running 2x1.7 right now
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Old 08-19-2016, 09:46 PM   #2719
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3x1.4 would do that as well correct? Im running 2x1.7 right now
I would go up a step in oil in the rear first, then try 1.6x2. What's your ride height at?
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Old 08-19-2016, 10:43 PM   #2720
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Fantastic. Thanks!
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Old 08-20-2016, 06:49 AM   #2721
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Hi all

What are the alternatives for lower front wing mount on B6? (As in in front of tower not on top)

Thoughts on what's good/not? Seen a couple on shapeways but was sure one of the manufacturers announced something moulded a couple of weeks back? Google not being helpful today...!
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Old 08-20-2016, 06:53 AM   #2722
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Hi all

What are the alternatives for lower front wing mount on B6? (As in in front of tower not on top)
Schelle, Pro-line, JConcepts
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Old 08-20-2016, 08:10 AM   #2723
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I would go up a step in oil in the rear first, then try 1.6x2. What's your ride height at?
22 mm
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Old 08-20-2016, 04:16 PM   #2724
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Add me to the list of broken B6 rear shock [email protected]#$%
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Old 08-20-2016, 04:17 PM   #2725
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Is there a list?
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Old 08-20-2016, 04:19 PM   #2726
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Is there a list?
Should be. We could start one. It seems to be a weak point. I know, I know...don't crash!
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Old 08-20-2016, 04:24 PM   #2727
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Good to know. I was just curious if a lot of people were breaking them.. Not ending up on your lid does help though!
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Old 08-20-2016, 04:33 PM   #2728
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From what I understand quite a few were broken at New Reds during the Super Cup and a few were broken at Beachline today. Both high bite (sealed) and hard packed clay.
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Old 08-20-2016, 05:14 PM   #2729
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You see a few of these aftermarket companies making 4mm carbon fiber shock towers claiming thicker and better to address the breakage.


I just measured my B6 towers and it is 3.6mm for rear and 4.15mm for front so I don't see the main point on buying those yet.


I would say make 4.5mm towers maybe even 5mm and more material on the ears around the holes for the upper shock mounts also needed.
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Old 08-20-2016, 06:01 PM   #2730
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Default broken shock towers

I don't think broken shock towers have anything to do with a weakness in the parts or materials.

It's a knife edge when it comes in contact with whatever surface - there is no give, it digs in hard and snaps rather than giving a bit or sliding like the plastic/composite parts.

Waiting for some enterprising aftermarket parts company to make the same shock towers in carbon, but route a nice rounded leading edge. I bet breakage would almost be non-existent overnight.

Or, as I have done, bend a small piece of spare lexan over that leading edge. I've tumbled plenty on carpet, and have not had a single issue. Others driving the same chassis have broken them when run without any protection.
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